Dropping keel
Debra,if you're absolutely sure that your getting water from outside your boat and not inside i.e. leaky plumbing, ice box drainage etc. then follow these steps and you should be okay. First, assure that all side stands are located under some structural type component that is glassed to the hull such as a bulkhead, locker support etc..This is necessary for lifting the boat by way of the stands without deforming the hull. Four stands will work but six are better. Second, with the keel blocked on the ground, as it should be from the haul out, you must build a support cradle for the keel from heavy lumber,4x4,2x4,2x6 drilled and bolted not nailed. This support is only for keeping the keel upright as the blocking is holding the weight. Keep the top of the cradle about 6" lower than the top of the keel. Third, remove the keel nuts and then with a freind begin to turn the stand heads a half turn at a time starting at the bow and working to the stern. Do each opposing stand simuntaneousely. You may have to put a metal rod or some such into the end of the turning handle for leverage. At this point I should add that you will have already removed a couple of inches of bottom paint on both sides of the crack and opened up the crack all the way around the keel so it can start to seperate as you lift the boat. You may have to use a pry bar or other such tool to clean out filler as you try to achieve seperation. Keep lifting and prying. Also, when the yard hauls and blocks your boat explain to them what you intend to do and ask them to block your boat as low as possible so you will have enough throw on the stand heads to completely lift the boat off of the keel. Please DO NOT dig a pit to drop the keel into. Fourth, once the keel and boat are seperated check the condition of the keel sump exterior where it mates with the top of the keel. It may need some glass repair depending on whether it was slightly ripped apart from the seperation or not. If so , repair to a flat and fair mating surface making sure that the surface is level port to starboard as well as fore and aft. This will make your new keel joint tight and easier to seal. Also, if the keel sump is not reasonably level side to side the keel will hang at a slight angle not vertically plumb. Clean the top of the keel flat, wire brush the keel bolts, inspect to be sure they are tight in the keel. Fifth, fill any low spots on bottom of sump and top of keel with waterproof filler, sand and fair, apply sealant material to top of keel and around base of the keel bolts where they'll sit in the holes in the sump glass, lower boat evenly onto keel, re-torque the keel bolts and clean off the ooze. Check torque again the next day after the boat has sat overnight, re-apply bottom paint and you're done. I hope all of this helps. Gerry
