What I believe to be the shaft seal is leaking where it enters or connects to the metal ring to the left of the double hose clamps. Dripping at rest. Touch the shaft and it sounds like it wants to let in the Pacific. Question is whether it can be changed without a haul out, and if so how. Is there anything I can wrap it with to contain the water until I can replace it?
Seal Trying to Sink My Boat
- Thread starter wufibugs
- Start date
How old is the unit? One manufacturer (PSS) recommends replacing if over (I think) 6 years. since the failure of the seal would be a BIG problem, I would take the route of replacing. I have seen threads on tightening the seal by moving the collar aft, but it's important not to re-use the set screws - get new ones. Check the bellows for cracks or wear. If not pristine, I'd replace. I notice a lot of corrosion on your ring. Clean it, but don't use anything that can deterioate the rubber. Also, many of us that use this system put a hose clamp on the shaft to make sure the ring dosen't move forward on the shaft. You do not seem to have a "burping" tube as part of your installation which means that it is probably an older unit. You might want to upgrade.
You can cram a bunch of thin plastic bags (grocery shopping bags for instance) into the hull recess where the shaft comes out of the boat on the underside of the hull.. as many as you can get to stay in there.. Dive under and see what ya have. Then you can test the amount of leakage by pulling the bellows aft. it will leak some, but not a whole lot. You should check the amount of face pressure on the seal by having the collar loose then moving it away from the bellows until it there is a gap then push aft until the face first (barely) touches the stationary carbon face held in the bellows. Then mark the shaft and from there, push the collar aft the correct amount as listed in your seal instructions; 1/4" or somewhere around there.. be accurate with that measurement. Tighten the collar set screws. and pull the bags from the outside to check. It should be burped as Scotty says.. again, should be in the seal instructions. If that doesn't do it, it will have to be pulled off the shaft. That is usually done with the boat out of the water. The faces of the seal are very critical and one small scratch across a face can ruin the seal.
Will try come corrective measures but thinking it might be time to renew. Does anyone happen to know the part number for the PSS shaft seal kit for the H31?
By the looks of your old one, I think it's seen better days. The ring on the shaft looks pretty corroded. If the mating surfaces are pitted, it could be resurfaced, but it's polished to a mirror finish and if there are any pits or scratches, it will mean leaks. The new ones have a fitting for a hose that comes off of your salt/fresh water intake. It eliminates bleeding or burping. I've had mine for about 10 years and am going to replace the bellows while I have my engine out.
Unfortunately, with all the work required to replace the PSS seal a haulout is reqired. You can begin some of the work while the boat is in the water and still being used. If you do the work yourself...... as soon as practical measure the hull tube and order the new shaft seal. You will want time to carefully read the instructions for installation. Mind-set is very important ......be prepared to spend some quality time in uncomfortable positions in your engine compartment! (Classical music is helpful for me.)
In preparation for the job put your choice of penetrating chemical on the coupler bolts where it connects to the transmission and get some onto the coupler to the shaft where the shaft key is located. Soak those areas over several days to a week or more. Drizzle some into the holes in the ss collar too. A thin chisel might eventually be needed to tap out the shaft key, but be gentle.
Another PITA: When the boat is hauled out check for wobble in any coutlass bearing you have on the shaft. While you are doing the PSS you might as well check/change the bearing as needed.
The prop shaft willl need to be moved aft in order to have room to work to remove the coupler from the shaft. Then the ss collar and the remainder of the dripless shaft seal (which has become a dripping shaft seal) can be slid forward and removed from the shaft. Remember, there are two set screws in EACH hole in the ss collar. They will probably be corroded too.
When those old parts are removed check the prop shaft for wear. Preparation proceedure is in the instructions for installation of the new PSS. Definately clean and smooth the shaft prior to putting any new parts in place. If it is worn or deformed it will need to be replaced. (Sorry to need to mention that!) But, that is a whole 'nuther project!
When the boat is back in the water you can check for proper compression of the ribbed boot by running the engine. I think the instructions mention that the seal will seat itself within the first half hour of operation. Slight adjustment to the bellows can be made in the water. (After you have shut off the engine!)
Best Wishes for a successful project.
I don't want to "bad news" the operation, but when that shaft comes back enough to clear your job, the rudder may have to come off. Or.....sometimes getting lucky and pull the prop and the shaft slide alongside the rudder. Probably not.
There's a 30' Hunter sitting here on the hill, I'll scope it out in the morning, I just left there. BTW, I think 25 hundred bucks or less will buy it. Motor froze..
There's a 30' Hunter sitting here on the hill, I'll scope it out in the morning, I just left there. BTW, I think 25 hundred bucks or less will buy it. Motor froze..
I suppose I'll have to look carefully at the cutlass bearing too when she's high and dry and also see how far aft the shaft has to go get the shaft seal on.
Wow, Chris, that's bounty of parts you've stumbled on. Unfortunately, 3000 miles east of here.
According to the Hunter Store, the shaft is confirmed at 1" and the tube at 1.75". I am wondering at the clearances on those? Are they less than .125?
Wow, Chris, that's bounty of parts you've stumbled on. Unfortunately, 3000 miles east of here.
According to the Hunter Store, the shaft is confirmed at 1" and the tube at 1.75". I am wondering at the clearances on those? Are they less than .125?
It possibly may be worse than I thought. If your boat is built anything like this one, the skeg has to come off too. Then again, you may be lucky and slide it back I enough to get the parts on. It wouldn't be MY luck..
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If I were you I would replace the shaft and the coupling at the same time (actually, I did). The cost is small compared to the shaft seal (and potential cutlass bearing replacement). If you replace the shaft, you save yourself a lot of trouble with removing the old coupling (you just cut the old shaft in half). If you do it all at once, you can count on several years of not needing to look in that direction again.
Really? The shaft from the forum store is $250, which is about the same as the shaft seal assembly. At present I have no indication of a shaft issue. How often are these treated as "periodic maintenance" replacements??
You can stop the leak by wrapping it with Rescue tape. You won't be able to use the engine but it will stop the leak if properly installed.
http://www.rescuetape.com/
http://www.rescuetape.com/
By following Kloudie's instructions on moving the carbon ring aft I was able to bring the leak under control. That along with a 12v pump should allow me to do any motoring I might need to when I go to the boat yard where I can install the new seal.
I still wonder about the recommendation to replace the shaft. Is that really necessary if I have not noticed any shaft issues? Is the shaft a periodic maintenance item? Doing so will more than double the costs of this repair. I am considering replacing the cutlass bearing long as I will be high and dry.
I still wonder about the recommendation to replace the shaft. Is that really necessary if I have not noticed any shaft issues? Is the shaft a periodic maintenance item? Doing so will more than double the costs of this repair. I am considering replacing the cutlass bearing long as I will be high and dry.
The only time you should have to replace your shaft is if it's bent or scored bad in a crucial area by the seal or cutlass bearing.
Richard, once out of the water, IF you can get the coupling off the shaft and loosen the seal ring, you can probably turn the rudder, slide the shaft back 'tll the prop hits the rudder, and find enough room to pull the rotating seal ring and then the bellows and stationary seal face off, in the gap between the forward end of the shaft and the transmission flange. The shaft will have to be polished where the rotating ring fits because otherwise, the o-ring under the seal will leak. There will probably be some divots where the set screws were digging in. These should be smoothed down to avoid cutting the new o-ring, but you will have dimples there. You should avoid trying to set the o-ring on the dimples when installing new.