I was looking at the seacocks on my "new to me" older sailboat, which is in the water. In the pictures, both appear to be in the open position. The former owner never used them and they have probably been this way for 8-10 years. I am not planning to use them either but am keen on not sinking. My instincts tell me not to try turning them (in case they are closed now, or something breaks!), but I could put hoses on them as a backup. Anyone seen the same type of valve and know the answer?
Seacock Mystery
- Thread starter silasl
- Start date
That looks like a pretty scary situation! The one on the right looks like it could be leaking, unless there is another reason for the water and dampness around the valve. I would put a hose on those just to be sure that a failure is contained. If they are close enough, I suppose you could just bridge the 2 valves with a single hose until you have the boat out of the water to see what is underneath. Have you seen the underside yet? First chance you get, you should replace those or remove and fill the holes. Do you know their purpose? More explanation needed for solid advice.
You should leave them as is, especially as you are in the water.
Also, I would advise you to get a set of wooden seacock plugs for your boat. Or make some yourself. Probably one of the best items you can have on a boat. As long as they are accessible and you don’t forget where you put them.
You can always attach one to every thru hull you have and keep others as spares.
Also, I would advise you to get a set of wooden seacock plugs for your boat. Or make some yourself. Probably one of the best items you can have on a boat. As long as they are accessible and you don’t forget where you put them.
You can always attach one to every thru hull you have and keep others as spares.
Both compartments are connected to the bilge so a tiny amount of water sloshes around. It has not changed noticeably in over a week (and not running the bilge pump) but you're right the right one looks damp around the valve area. With hoses on I'll be able to better isolate where that's coming from. Thanks.
If both were in fact open, wouldn't water be pouring into the boat?
I agree with others. Don't touch them and buy tapered plugs just in case. Haul out and replace in the very near future. I wouldn't even touch them to put hoses on them.
@jssailem has some scary photos of a thru hull valve he went to replace and it crumbled into pieces when he started.
If you can get a short haul you can replace them while hanging in the slings. That may be faster than doing a proper repair to close the holes if you aren't familiar with fiberglass work. Marelon thru hulls with valves run around $85 and then you can plug them if you have no current use for them. And they may be cheaper than buying the materials necessary for the fiberglass work.
I agree with others. Don't touch them and buy tapered plugs just in case. Haul out and replace in the very near future. I wouldn't even touch them to put hoses on them.
@jssailem has some scary photos of a thru hull valve he went to replace and it crumbled into pieces when he started.
If you can get a short haul you can replace them while hanging in the slings. That may be faster than doing a proper repair to close the holes if you aren't familiar with fiberglass work. Marelon thru hulls with valves run around $85 and then you can plug them if you have no current use for them. And they may be cheaper than buying the materials necessary for the fiberglass work.
Hi,
Since water isn't gushing in, the valves are either closed, or the hole has been patched or plugged from the outside. Do you have a gopro or waterproof camera that you can stick in the water to see what the hull looks like? Use a stick or something you can get the camera under the water and in the right area. Record some video and see what you have going on?
Did you have the boat surveyed or hauled out? You didn't notice anything strange?
Good luck,
Barry
Since water isn't gushing in, the valves are either closed, or the hole has been patched or plugged from the outside. Do you have a gopro or waterproof camera that you can stick in the water to see what the hull looks like? Use a stick or something you can get the camera under the water and in the right area. Record some video and see what you have going on?
Did you have the boat surveyed or hauled out? You didn't notice anything strange?
Good luck,
Barry
Ok the good news is the former owner got back to me and reports both holes are sealed from the outside, and no openings remain in the Hull. But why did whoever closed them up leave the old valves in there???? (I still want to double check for seepage) Thanks for the advice and I will do as you say at the next haul out.
Something is blocking the internals of the valve which is why nothing is coming through. I'm presuming you are in the water.
Please connect these valves to hoses YESTERDAY and permanently seal the ends of the hoses.
Given what you are looking at right now, the valves may be sealed on the outside with either duct tape or masking tape. Don't take a chance. Please clamp hoses on to both valves or permanently seal in some way until you're on the hard and can inspect the exterior seals.
You'll live through this and be able to regale the crowds with this story at at the next cocktail party. Boating is all about stories like this, and worse
"Ok the good news is the former owner got back to me and reports both holes are sealed from the outside, and no openings remain in the Hull."
Agree with Ralph on this. PO took a shortcut. Shortcuts may be OK until they are below the waterline and your boat is at risk.
Agree with Ralph on this. PO took a shortcut. Shortcuts may be OK until they are below the waterline and your boat is at risk.
The fact that the p.o. sealed the holes from the outside and didn't remove the valves is pretty solid evidence that he didn't properly seal the holes. I wouldn't entertain any thoughts of removing the valves while the boat is in the water because the valves may be the only thing keeping the exterior "seals" from failing. I'm also considering that it is probably best to not even touch them with hoses. @ward is right about how looks can be deceiving. You really should not have bought a boat without seeing it out of the water and inspecting everything under the water line. But there is no point in regretting past decisions. Just move on in the most productive way possible. The good news is that removing these valves and making sure you have a proper repair to fill the holes is not a big problem! It's relatively simple with the right research. You've come to the right place. Everybody in here has got your back! Since you've discovered this problem, the best thing right now is to haul out and get a close look at everything.
The previous job might have been done 8 or 10 years ago and perhaps everything has been ok for that time period. The problem is that the job may not have been done well enough to hold indefinitely and you might be left holding the bag on a job that has reached its limitation. Problems below the waterline often don't become apparent until the whole boat is below the waterline! Good for you for raising this question! It shows that you have awareness. Next step ... solve the problem.
The previous job might have been done 8 or 10 years ago and perhaps everything has been ok for that time period. The problem is that the job may not have been done well enough to hold indefinitely and you might be left holding the bag on a job that has reached its limitation. Problems below the waterline often don't become apparent until the whole boat is below the waterline! Good for you for raising this question! It shows that you have awareness. Next step ... solve the problem.
They valves are seized and badly corroded. And you're suggesting leaving the valves wide open without sealing them in any way until the boat is on the hard?
There is a lot wrong with the installation of those seacocks. The correct and safest solution is to haul the boat and remove and replace or properly seal the hole with fiberglass.
The dampness on and around the fittings is concerning. Do you know where the moisture is coming from?
Also get those wires out of the puddle in the bilge. They can lead to nothing but trouble, especially because one of the wires looks like a bonding cable.
At this point I would be hesitant to use the boat until I had a better idea of what is going on the outside of the hull. Time to get a short haul to investigate realizing it may become a long haul to do the repair. Get the boat hauled, take some photos of the hull and let us know.
The links below have great information on how to replace a through hull. Worth the read.
The dampness on and around the fittings is concerning. Do you know where the moisture is coming from?
Also get those wires out of the puddle in the bilge. They can lead to nothing but trouble, especially because one of the wires looks like a bonding cable.
At this point I would be hesitant to use the boat until I had a better idea of what is going on the outside of the hull. Time to get a short haul to investigate realizing it may become a long haul to do the repair. Get the boat hauled, take some photos of the hull and let us know.
The links below have great information on how to replace a through hull. Worth the read.
Replacing Thru-Hulls and Seacocks - Marine How To
Tip: If you would like a higher resolution or larger photo simply click on the picture and it will get bigger. A Poor Idea The picture on the left is what not to do if starting from scratch and installing new seacocks.
marinehowto.com
Seacock & Thru-Hull Primer - Marine How To
These are called Thru-Hulls This item is called a thru-hull or sometimes a mushroom-head or even a skin fitting. They are straight threaded (NPS thread) so they can be cut to the correct length, for your hulls thickness, and then be
marinehowto.com
Seacock Backing Plates - Marine How To
Start by Drilling a Hole Many readers have asked me how to install stronger, flanged seacocks without also drilling extra holes in your hull for the bolts that hold the flange. It can be done, as you will see below. Though this
marinehowto.com
Well, I guess that might depend upon your judgement of the situation. I'm not suggesting that it is logical to leave a valve open on the face of the simple logic that it would be better to have a closed valve. But he has knowledge that the holes are sealed underwater and that water is not currently flowing through open valves. I am suggesting that the corroding valves could be damaged to the point that any modification could cause the valves to crumble in his hands and that perhaps the corroded valves are all that is holding the underwater seal in place. If he were to cause the valves to break off in his hands while he disturbs the handles, the situation could deteriorate rapidly.
But, who knows? I'm not there so I don't know for sure ...
First you want to seal it with a hose :
Then you don't want to seal it with a hose :
What IS your suggestion until @silasl can get the boat on to the hard?
You are a pretty lucky guy. Those are REAL seacocks, not those silly ball valve things.
First thing you'll want to do is wire brush it up as much as you can. Then carefully back off on the nut on the end of the shaft until the nut covers the end of the threads. I do not know of any penetrating fluid that works well on bronze except muriatic acid, but I wouldn't recommend using that inside the boat.
Tap with a hammer and the tapered cone will pop out the handled end. Use lapping paste to mate the surface of the cone and the thruhull housing until the cone moves easily. Then replace the cone and tighten the nut until you cannot move the cone with a crescent wrench on the handle.
If you don't want them, they are probably worth a lot as most people prefer the cheaper ball valves. To cap it, close the valve (handle sideways), tighten the nut and screw a piece of bronze pipe into the thruhull with a threaded cap.
First thing you'll want to do is wire brush it up as much as you can. Then carefully back off on the nut on the end of the shaft until the nut covers the end of the threads. I do not know of any penetrating fluid that works well on bronze except muriatic acid, but I wouldn't recommend using that inside the boat.
Tap with a hammer and the tapered cone will pop out the handled end. Use lapping paste to mate the surface of the cone and the thruhull housing until the cone moves easily. Then replace the cone and tighten the nut until you cannot move the cone with a crescent wrench on the handle.
If you don't want them, they are probably worth a lot as most people prefer the cheaper ball valves. To cap it, close the valve (handle sideways), tighten the nut and screw a piece of bronze pipe into the thruhull with a threaded cap.
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Just another thought. The PO chose to leave the seacocks open and seal them from the outside rather than service them so he could close them or replace them. If he sealed them while the boat was on the hard, he could have easily done either.
I'm guessing he sealed them with underwater epoxy putty and decided good enough, now leaving the problem for the next owner.
I'm guessing he sealed them with underwater epoxy putty and decided good enough, now leaving the problem for the next owner.
Since my previous reply was deleted, I'll ask again ... what's your problem?
