Sea Hood re-bedding

May 16, 2021
39
Hunter 34 Melbourne, FL
I have an H34 and as most sailors do I have leaks. I've been reading and it seems that 4200 is the current choice when sealing the Sea Hood back on. Just curious for those who have tackled this job, what lessons did you learn, what did you use to seal it, what other than the hidden bolts, were issues? Thanks for you help and support.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,093
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I tried Bed It butyl but because the 9000 screws (! ok it is a bunch, probably not that many) that go through, along with the clearance between the cover and the cabin top, made that a no-go. I think that something like 4200 applied liberally (the clearance under my cover is 1/4" in some places) and allowed to firm up a little before laying the cover back on and installing the screws might do the trick .. I think that is how it was installed at the factory. If the screws are tightened too much, it can crack or deform the cover in those places where there is a lot of clearance. The sealant doesn't have to seal tightly to the underside of the cover, but it does have to seal perfectly to the cabin top and the screws Best of luck and get us some pictures!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,451
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Be careful as hunter may have used satan’s glue or 5200 on that seal

4200 would be a good selection as it is not a permanent sealant. Former Hunter dealer now retired.
 
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Likes: JamesG161
Nov 6, 2006
10,093
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Dave, my '85 model did not have 5200 for the seahood seal. it came up with slow and careful levering around the edges on a hot day. The sealant was stringy kind of like a butyl that had been put on thickly. I think that same stuff was used to secure some of the cabin wiring to the cabin grid/liner in spots. I don't know if they used 5200 at different times on that seal, but I am glad that mine was not .. Be prepared to open the drain channel at the front of the slider pocket once you have the cover off. The drain on my boat was completely blocked by some tabbing that should have been removed at the factory, but was overlooked. I tried drilling a hole in the tabbing but it plugged quickly with debris. I opened it completely the next time I was in there. picture shows the drain channel with tabbing and my small drilled hole.
DSCF3533.JPG
 
May 16, 2021
39
Hunter 34 Melbourne, FL
Thank you for your help/suggestions. It needs to be tackled but was wondering. Just a thought but has anyone thought about just sealing up all those screws and openings? Just fiberglass over the opening? There is always water there and then green mold and staining. don't know why it was designed that way to have a channel to hold water?
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,093
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
A forum member did seal up all the holes including the cover holes. Then only put back the ones that are needed, about half. The epoxy and plugs sealing the holes were drilled and tapped for machine screws; the holes didn’t go all the way thru the plugs, so the screws didn’t need to be sealed. Maine Sail detailed how to hog out under the holes without making the hole bigger. The sea hood forms the top of the ventilator dorade, covers the halyards , and covers the slider.