Finally found the opportunity to replace the 1.5" sanitation hose. Based on the odor of the exterior of the completely permeated hose, and the huge difference on the boat, this has been one of the best "quality of experience" upgrades I have done. As Paul J's post would indicate, this was not easy, but I did manage to replace the hose into the existing embedded tube without any modifications. Here is the process, minus the do-overs and expletives. Took me about four hours including mistakes.
Preparation:
I measured about 15' for the 1.5" hose and bought 16.5' (Trident 102, Defender). New for main run was about 8', but longer made handling easier. The pump out line netted exactly 5'; macerator less than 1'. I had 2' and 1' pieces left over.
Pump Out, rinse, repeat... Drop garden hose and nozzle through aft port cockpit locker to be ready to flush bilge. Turn on breakers for Shower sump, Water, Water heater (you will appreciate the hot water for rinsing and washing hands). Leave supply hose connected at head so you can use shower sump pump. My shower/fridge drain exits at head supply. Remove niceties from port aft bilge, as it will get flushed. Either remove the aft door at the piano hinge, or tape up the edges of the hinge. I shredded my forearms. This will be easier with two people, although I did it alone.
Head in:
Remove 1.5 hose clamps at head. I had to slice the hose to remove. Remove 1.5" line. It will drain nasties into area. Use shower wand and sump pump to flush. Remove 3/4 hoses when done using shower sump pump. Remove head. (I immediately needed to pee). Clean up area, self, open first beer.
Now aft:
Remove hose clamps at tank. Slice the hose at elbow to ease removal. (Spill first beer). There is a stiff curve from the entrance to the tube up to the tank elbow. I used a PVC cutter to reach in and cut the bend off to ease pulling the hose forward. I just pulled the hose out, a mistake. The tube doesn't run all the way forward to the head bulkhead hole, so any attempts to feed the hose from fore or aft will not work. I needed a tracer line, so I stuffed the garden hose in rear of tube and fed forward until I could catch some of the hose at the hole in the head bulkhead. Worked first try and I tied a line to hose and pulled aft.
What follows is how I would have done it after learning more about what's behind the wall. Before cutting the bend off of the aft end of the hose, drill 3/8 hole through hose forward of most of the bend. This hole will be to attach the tracer line. Cut the bend off of the hose just aft of the hole. Remove the short curved section from the tank elbow. Now is the time to flush area using the nearby hose... If you want all mess over at once, go ahead and remove the lower pump out hose and the macerator hose. Tie a tracer line into the hole in hose. NOW pull out the hose from the head, making sure the tracer line is intact and feeding.
Prepare the new hose by drilling a hole for the tracer line. You will be tying to the aft end of the line and feeding from the back. The discontinuous tube prevents success feeding from the front (Tried it). I left the hose long, including the 6' needed for the pump out line + macerator and fed it down through the aft port locker opening. It was tough to get the hose started into the aft end of the tube, but keeping the tracer taut and bending the tube, it will start. I let the hose lay in the sun while I worked, and it was a bit more flexible. It takes a bit of muscle to keep pushing the tube while bending just right to release. I made progress in 1-4" increments. Since I was alone, my tracer line was fed from the head, over the engine cover, back so I could pull while feeding. Again, keep tracer taut, the hose will feed forward until it hits the head bulkhead. Playing the tracer at the bulkhead, I was able to easily find the tube end to guide through the bulkhead hole. Feed a bit more than you will need to connect the head and take a break. Hard part is over. Clean up again. Open second beer; 1.5 in my case.
I cut hose to best position to connect to the tank elbow. It was not too difficult to bend hose onto the elbow. I had to pull hose back out of the tube slightly to walk it up fully onto the elbow.
Replace the head to position and trim the forward end of tube. You may want to turn the tubing to hide the green stripe, before bending/clamping at the tank. I forgot to do so.
Macerator and pump out lines are easy if your body will fit in the back without too many bruises. I did not yet replace the 3/4 supply hoses, nor the macerator exit line, which is Trident 101 and not too bad. Also plan to upgrade the vent line.
Good luck!
Ed
