That's a thoughtWhat if the mast were laid along side the keel and the pulpits removed or mast on deck, if it needs to overhang the vehicle?
- Will (Dragonfly)
That's a thoughtWhat if the mast were laid along side the keel and the pulpits removed or mast on deck, if it needs to overhang the vehicle?
- Will (Dragonfly)
I think Will's suggestion will give you an extra 5" of clearance room. It looks like you are using a flatbed. Is the bed of your flatbed made from wooden planks? If so, could you remove one (or part) of a plank right below the keel and drop the keel down into the slot another 6". You would need to find a way to brace the bottom of the keel but I'm thinking you could do that with heavy duty tow straps. I guess before you go to all of that trouble you need to drive the route you plan to take and measure the clearance of every overhang and power line you pass under. You will need a clinometer (sometimes called an inclinometer) Something like thisThat's a thought
The boat actually sits on a cradle that is chained to the wood deck of the trailer. I'm going to see if the trailer repair company can remove the deck and weld the cradle to the frame, although I don't know how that might affect launching and retrieving. The keel would need to pass over the end frame, which s straight as opposed to V - shaped like a boat trailer, then drop down to the keel support tray.I think Will's suggestion will give you an extra 5" of clearance room. It looks like you are using a flatbed. Is the bed of your flatbed made from wooden planks? If so, could you remove one (or part) of a plank right below the keel and drop the keel down into the slot another 6". You would need to find a way to brace the bottom of the keel but I'm thinking you could do that with heavy duty tow straps. I guess before you go to all of that trouble you need to drive the route you plan to take and measure the clearance of every overhang and power line you pass under. You will need a clinometer (sometimes called an inclinometer) Something like this
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...vLCT3AIVCg1pCh0G8AqoEAkYASABEgLYjfD_BwE&smp=y
No need to go to all of that work if you don't need to... and if you do need to lower your clearance, you will know by how much you need to make it work.
Thanks. I'll check out the Google route thing.Google can scout your route for going around some lower overpasses. The size of your trailer will limit possibilities, but consider going through Canada. I don't know for sure, but I think there are just fewer places where you will encounter low over-passes and more open spaces. It is true in Quebec, just north of me. You still have to come back down, though.
Also, you might not need to take her directly to your destination. Launch her in Maine, keep her there until retirement, then sail the rest of the way.
- Will (Dragonfly)
Ouch!Just got an estimate for crane rental...
$250/hr starting from when it leaves it's facility until it arrives back home, so looking at $750-$1000 for that. Plus $275 for State of Ohio permit, $185 for City permit, another $200 for county permit...and that doesn't include the cost of a boat rigger to rig the sling!
At that point in the conversation, I politely thanked the man for his time and hung up.
Because he just spent 3 years refitting it? See post #8, he's not selling.
I think @agprice22 has the best suggestion so far. Maybe reach out to Crazy Dave. I remember seeing on an earlier post where Dave gave someone the exact name and phone number of the original trailer builders for Hunter.All this is sounding really complicated! Skip all the difficulties. Buy yourself a trailer, a BOAT trailer! I have never regretted owning trailers for my boats. You could sell it when you get to your destination if you want. Used boat trailers sell easily. However, a trailer is really useful when you need to haul the boat and repair it or refinish the bottom. I keep a set of jacks too.
Just ran across this one again
https://kdvr.com/2016/07/29/boat-from-minnesota-ends-up-on-highway-in-colorado-mountains/