S1 Wheel Pilot conversion
- Thread starter rpwillia
- Start date
I don't know for sure, but the S1 power switched supply to the motor drive may not be able to handle the higher amperage draw of a below deck drive.. That probably can be fixed with some relay/diode stuff so that the new relays handle the higher load by taking their control signals from the computer.. wire the control circuit of the higher power handling relay(s) where the original motor drive was and run a larger cable from a positive buss (fused of course) to the relays.. Run a large ground from the below deck motor to a good negative buss. The relays may be solid state to decrease any control lag.
I did!!. We built a metal bracket to enable us to get worm drive up to height of steering quadrant. I have never had any problem and love the setup
Presently have a Raymarine Evolution 100 wheel pilot including P70s control head, 4000st wheel & drive motor, EVO 100 ACU (autopilot control unit), & compass. Thinking about upgrading to below deck autopilot. I can re-use the control head & compass; however, the ACU 100 lacks sufficient power to operate the new linear drive unit. Cost for a used ACU 100 & linear drive is approximately $2500 + custom brackets to mount the drive unit. Probably going to keep the wheel pilot!
I went on the Raymarine tech support and asked the following. I will post what they respond with. Also here are some pictures of what I have.
"My S1 Wheel Pilot is good and I have it integrated with my Axiom+ as well as the depth, speed and wind instruments as well as a Fusion Radio (that integration is phenomenal) and a Standard Horizon 2410 with AIS.
The S1 has been a champ and I got you all to rebuild it a few years ago, but I am sailing in rougher water and would like to go more robust. Can I simply swap the wheel drive with a motor connected to my Rudder quadrant. I am assuming I would need to run separate power to the motor and then use the + and - on the computer controller to provide the controls?"
You can integrate an AP control head (70) via STNG to ST1 as I did it for a friend. But, my current set up is so solid I do not want to change much. My big issue is last night crossing the Chesapeak Bay the wheel drive struggled to handle the waves, and when I was dealing with the one thunderstorm that rolled over me at the mouth of the Potomac with 46 knot winds
fuggedaboutit.
"My S1 Wheel Pilot is good and I have it integrated with my Axiom+ as well as the depth, speed and wind instruments as well as a Fusion Radio (that integration is phenomenal) and a Standard Horizon 2410 with AIS.
The S1 has been a champ and I got you all to rebuild it a few years ago, but I am sailing in rougher water and would like to go more robust. Can I simply swap the wheel drive with a motor connected to my Rudder quadrant. I am assuming I would need to run separate power to the motor and then use the + and - on the computer controller to provide the controls?"
You can integrate an AP control head (70) via STNG to ST1 as I did it for a friend. But, my current set up is so solid I do not want to change much. My big issue is last night crossing the Chesapeak Bay the wheel drive struggled to handle the waves, and when I was dealing with the one thunderstorm that rolled over me at the mouth of the Potomac with 46 knot winds
fuggedaboutit.Attachments
For your desired goal, I believe that the Raymarine Evolution 200 Autopilot with type 1 linear drive would be satisfactory. Unfortunately, that system is a bit over $4000 + the cost of custom brackets.
A below deck AP is more than just a drive unit. It will be necessary to have a rudder angle sensor and a bracket that attaches directly to the rudder post for the drive unit. Attaching the drive to the quadrant is an invitation to a broken quadrant. The Edson cast aluminum quadrants are not strong enough. If quadrant is steel then they may be strong enough.
Edson sells attachment brackets and a good machine shop can make one.
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The ACU100 can put out 7A to a drive unit. That is well within the specs of the Type 1 drive, or similar sized Jefa drive. The problem is it does not have a clutch output, if I recall correctly.
Mark
I am not sure what I have, but attached is a picture of my unit and it has 2 connections for a clutch. Did get an email from Raymarine and they are still working on it.
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Mark,
I believe you are correct. It has been 5 years or so since I wired my Evolution 100/ ACU; I don't recall any clutch related wiring option either.
Yes, you have the older SmartPilot, which should be easy to convert to a below deck drive. I was responding to the person who had a newer Evolution pilot.
Mark
I see nobody answered your original question, including Raymarine. The S1 Smartpilot can drive up to 15A output, so well within any drive unit suitable for your boat. We had one with a hydraulic pump drive.
Converting the S1 from the wheel drive to a below deck drive simply involves running drive power wires and clutch wires from the S1 to the drive unit you eventually get. Then connecting them. That is the easy part.
The hard part has nothing to do with the S1 at all. It is mounting the below deck drive unit in a way that fits the available space, doesn't put the quadrant in danger of breaking, and is mounted in a very (very) strong way.
To really get the advantage of a below deck pilot, you will also need to buy and install a rudder sensor. Without it, the boat will hunt and not be very precise. The S1 has inputs for this.
I assume you have a way to control it - either a separate control head or through the chartplotter.
Mark
Converting the S1 from the wheel drive to a below deck drive simply involves running drive power wires and clutch wires from the S1 to the drive unit you eventually get. Then connecting them. That is the easy part.
The hard part has nothing to do with the S1 at all. It is mounting the below deck drive unit in a way that fits the available space, doesn't put the quadrant in danger of breaking, and is mounted in a very (very) strong way.
To really get the advantage of a below deck pilot, you will also need to buy and install a rudder sensor. Without it, the boat will hunt and not be very precise. The S1 has inputs for this.
I assume you have a way to control it - either a separate control head or through the chartplotter.
Mark
Mark, Thank you for being spot on. I was just thinking about this and came to the same conclusions.
FWIW, I already have a Rudder Position Sensor installed. I also have the Control Head on the help. At this point the only things I think I need are a Type 1 Drive Motor and a Tiller Lever. Jefa gave me a quote of $2200 for both which is interesting.
You are correct in that the really hard part is where to mount the drive. I have room on my Rudder post to mount/clamp on a Tiller Lever that the motor attaches to. But the motor generates a lot of force and where the motor attaches has to be super solid.
Raymarine did respond with a recommendation I get T70153 which is their Tiller Pilot setup. I think they confused the Tiller Lever with a Tiller, but I guess that is the problem of not meeting face to face . For what I want, the Tiller pilot motor could work, but it may be undersized and I do not think it has the same inputs as Type1/2 drive motor and the Tiller Lever is much shorter requiring a stronger motor.
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The tiller pilot is definitely not what you want to install there. It is as weak and slow as the wheel pilot and won't gain you anything over that.
That tiller lever in the attachment looks like it just relies on clamping friction to attach to a round post? If so, I'd be concerned this isn't enough. The ones I've owned either had a through-bolt or the shaft was machined square for a square tiller attachment. Keyways are also used with some. There is a lot of turning torque applied there.
Mark
Edit: I just looked on Edson's website and they offer their tiller arm with the choices of thru bolt, keyway, or set screw. Set screw would be my second least favorable after only clamping force.
That tiller lever in the attachment looks like it just relies on clamping friction to attach to a round post? If so, I'd be concerned this isn't enough. The ones I've owned either had a through-bolt or the shaft was machined square for a square tiller attachment. Keyways are also used with some. There is a lot of turning torque applied there.
Mark
Edit: I just looked on Edson's website and they offer their tiller arm with the choices of thru bolt, keyway, or set screw. Set screw would be my second least favorable after only clamping force.