Hi all,
Our ‘84 Beneteau First 38 is on the hard. We dropped the rudder while she was in the sling during haulout 2 weeks ago. Exceeding easy to do considering that this may have been the first time the rudder was dropped in 29 years. Stainless steel shaft looks good.
Apparently, the rudder has been water logged for quite a few years and therefore a small hole was drilled into the bottom of the rudder each year (after haulout) to allow water to drain prior to freezing weather conditions setting in over the winter. Then, each spring, the hole was filled with epoxy prior to applying annual VC17 bottom paint. The fiberglass skin is not ballooned out thus indicating that there was not enough water left in rudder to expand the skin.
Surveyor (2 years ago) noted that sounding with a phenolic hammer was “remarkable” (i.e., not solid) and also noted that moisture level was high (200 – 750) in the rudder. Moisture level was determined using a GE Aquant Protimeter with a 60 – 999 scale. (60 to 150 = DRY; 151 to 250 = HIGHER MOISTURE THAN NORMAL; 251 to 999 EXCESSIVE MOISTURE).
I interpret the “remarkable” comment to mean that when tapped with the hammer the rudder does not sound “soild” thus indicating that the rudder skin has become detached from the internal foam after 29 years.
Not sure yet if we can repair the rudder. Options are (a) new rudder from Beneteau for a lot of $$, (b) new rudder from Foss Foam Products of Florida for less $$, or (c) open up the old rudder and replace the foam followed by new fiberglass skin.
So, how solid does the rudder have to be? Any suggestions on plan of action?
Our ‘84 Beneteau First 38 is on the hard. We dropped the rudder while she was in the sling during haulout 2 weeks ago. Exceeding easy to do considering that this may have been the first time the rudder was dropped in 29 years. Stainless steel shaft looks good.
Apparently, the rudder has been water logged for quite a few years and therefore a small hole was drilled into the bottom of the rudder each year (after haulout) to allow water to drain prior to freezing weather conditions setting in over the winter. Then, each spring, the hole was filled with epoxy prior to applying annual VC17 bottom paint. The fiberglass skin is not ballooned out thus indicating that there was not enough water left in rudder to expand the skin.
Surveyor (2 years ago) noted that sounding with a phenolic hammer was “remarkable” (i.e., not solid) and also noted that moisture level was high (200 – 750) in the rudder. Moisture level was determined using a GE Aquant Protimeter with a 60 – 999 scale. (60 to 150 = DRY; 151 to 250 = HIGHER MOISTURE THAN NORMAL; 251 to 999 EXCESSIVE MOISTURE).
I interpret the “remarkable” comment to mean that when tapped with the hammer the rudder does not sound “soild” thus indicating that the rudder skin has become detached from the internal foam after 29 years.
Not sure yet if we can repair the rudder. Options are (a) new rudder from Beneteau for a lot of $$, (b) new rudder from Foss Foam Products of Florida for less $$, or (c) open up the old rudder and replace the foam followed by new fiberglass skin.
So, how solid does the rudder have to be? Any suggestions on plan of action?
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