The gelcoat on my 1984 Hunter 34 is old and chalky so I have decided to compound and wax it. The problem is that the 3M Marine Rubbing Compound is a tan color and my gelcoat is white or, at least, it was. After compounding there is just a slight tinge of tan left behind. Even after waxing. So far I have only done a small test area. This really surprises me as this product is made for this and most gelocat tops are white. Anyone else encounter this? Is there a solution?
Rubbing Compound Staining Gelcoat
- Thread starter markwbird
- Start date
if you didnt cut deep enough to remove all the "chalk", it will stain, but because you smoothed it out it will still look better than it did and even waxing will help.... but some of the porous chalk remains between the wax you applied and the solid surface of the gelcoat, and it has absorbed the color of the compound....
the only thing you can do is, do it again...:cussing: and cut thru the chalk to the hard clean gelcoat..
I have heard that cleanser works well to remove the first layer of chalk from the gel coat. If you use Comet you can also get some bleaching action too.
Does this work?
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266
Color should or may not be the issue.
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266
Color should or may not be the issue.
I had this happen with my hobie.I got mine out with another compound that was white in color 3m also.I don't know a shortcut from here though.
Agree
I have seen some boats that having a lot of chalking build up on it
and it takes more hard work getting it all clean and so maybe if not all cleaned away will leave different color and not have all the layers of build up
removed.
My boat is pretty new 2007 and clean and wax every year so it does not take too much work to get it to shine and look look.
Nick
I have seen some boats that having a lot of chalking build up on it
and it takes more hard work getting it all clean and so maybe if not all cleaned away will leave different color and not have all the layers of build up
removed.
My boat is pretty new 2007 and clean and wax every year so it does not take too much work to get it to shine and look look.
Nick
Use a wet 1000 grit sand paper and remove all the oxidation. The use of an electric sander is OK with just using light pressure. You can do the whole hull and then wash it off and apply the wax. Try a small test area and you will like the results.
We really need more info to help.
What machine are you using, brand & model?
What Pads are you using, brand and model?
What speed are you using RPM wise?
more info on compounding
I'm using the Right Arm Model 2000. Rpm about 4. Wet sanded with 1000 grit first them rubbing compound then two coats of wax. Looks great except for the slight discoloration.
I'm using the Right Arm Model 2000. Rpm about 4. Wet sanded with 1000 grit first them rubbing compound then two coats of wax. Looks great except for the slight discoloration.
You really need a rotary machine, with speed control, like the Makita 9227C or you can even make do with the elcheapo Harbor Fright Buffer..
These compounds are "diminishing grit" which means they break down finer and finer with speed and friction and leave a higher shine. Start out coarse end up less coarse If you don't have that speed, and you won't with the RIGHT ARM 2000 model, then you leave it coarse and just keep scratching the hull leaving places for the color and compound to hide..
The right tools make all the difference in the world...
If you read and follow Maine Sail's advice in the link above, your hull will shine much like new. Bringing back a badly oxidized gel coat takes a lot of work. It is not like waxing your car. Once you get it back into reasonable condition it is much easier to maintain the next time around.
You will be spending a lot of time on your hull and going over it numerous times. I find that setting up a staging plank tied to short step ladders makes the job much easier. You just can;t get the right motion off of a single ladder.
The mist bottle is essential, Steve.
You will be spending a lot of time on your hull and going over it numerous times. I find that setting up a staging plank tied to short step ladders makes the job much easier. You just can;t get the right motion off of a single ladder.
The mist bottle is essential, Steve.
A fine grit, 1000+ sand paper gets through a HEAVILY oxidized gelcoat quicker.
Then compound/polish/wax. There is no shortcut to success.
Here's the deal though. You can grind through the gelcoat, so be careful, come coats are thin.
This should give you an idea of what I am talking about. On this boat I only used rubbing compound (bright red)... this is ONLY after that.
Where the chalk was heavier (stern mostly) I wet sanded at 1000 grit first, then rubbing compound then polish, then wax.
I used nothing fancy to do this, just Turtle products, including turtle wax (yep it held up nicely for a season, and I only had to rewax per season).
Then compound/polish/wax. There is no shortcut to success.
Here's the deal though. You can grind through the gelcoat, so be careful, come coats are thin.
This should give you an idea of what I am talking about. On this boat I only used rubbing compound (bright red)... this is ONLY after that.
Where the chalk was heavier (stern mostly) I wet sanded at 1000 grit first, then rubbing compound then polish, then wax.
I used nothing fancy to do this, just Turtle products, including turtle wax (yep it held up nicely for a season, and I only had to rewax per season).
RBone another member here followed my instructions and this is what it can look like..
Right tools, process and products.. He had very little buffing experience before reading the instructions and doing this..
Right tools, process and products.. He had very little buffing experience before reading the instructions and doing this..
When we had boats come in that were oxidized, the first was to clean with comet and then deteremine which route to go. If sanding, 600 or 800 with light pressure if using a hand sander but again lightly. Then I washed off and used a 3 m product called Finesse It. The key to any sander is no more than 1000 rpm with very light pressure moving back and forth; otherwise you could burn the gel coat. Sometimes a second compounding was needed and then a wash. We then used a cleaner wax for example the one by 3 m and then followed up with a final pure wax by melges. Looked great every time.
Rubbing Compound
I had the same concern earlier this year with the 3M light rubbing compound/wax product. The hull gained a ting of tan color, especially where the wax was thicker. After buffing, drying, and polishing the hull looked fine and I'm satisfied. Good luck!
I had the same concern earlier this year with the 3M light rubbing compound/wax product. The hull gained a ting of tan color, especially where the wax was thicker. After buffing, drying, and polishing the hull looked fine and I'm satisfied. Good luck!
I won't comment on the process of removing the chalk since it is a very presonal issue dependent on the individual's experience level, particularly when using any power buffing device. Once it's achieved I highly recommend Collonite 920 cleaner and Collonite 855 paste wax (rated #1 or tied for #1 every year by Practical Sailor). Follow the instructions and use elbow grease. If I've pushed it a bit too hard and find that there's a shadow that the elbow won't cut, a light pass with the Waxmaster is all it takes. On the other hand I won't even talk about the PolyGlo job that I inherited from the PO--right next to nuclear waste!
