I have a S2 8.0c. It has aluminum rub rail. Between the rub rail and the fiberglass, there seems to be a plastic material. It is deteriorated and brittle. It may be double sided tape or a gasket of some sort. It may have been used in the installation process. I do not know. Does anyone know what this is or why it is there? I want to reinstall the aluminum rub rail. The rail is not in too bad of shape. Do I need to find this material and reinstall it? I have 1/16th inch rubber. Is that a good material to use between the fiberglass and aluminum? All suggestions are welcome.
Rub Rail
- Thread starter Styx
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Between the aluminum and fiberglass?? Usually rub rails have the rubber to the outside of the boat, to protect the boat when it rubs up against a dock or another boat. Where was the rub rail installed before you took it off?
Here is a picture of the aluminum rub rail. Yes. The plastic tape/gasket was between the aluminum and fiberglass. It may not be a gasket but might be a double sided tape that held it on when installing the rub rail. I am not sure if it is really needed.
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It would be my understanding that it is a rubber cushion between the stainless and the glass. Without it, and you bump a piling, (and we all do), it gives it some resiliency to a minor degree, without cracking the glass. So put your 1/16? rubber back under it, I would. And seal your screw holes good with butyl. Because during these minor "impacts", it would have the ability to reform to the gap, and most sealants would just crack with time.
Thanks Chris. The rubber was my idea. I just happen to have a roll of it. Originally it was a tape like material. I think the rubber would add an extra cushion.
anything that gives, or adds a forgiving cushion behind the aluminum rub rail with allow the aluminum to bend acutely when bumped.... and it will not look pretty.... the aluminum should fit snug against the fiberglass like all other types of aluminum rubrails so it has solid back up. with the addition of the stiffer rubber backing, it will probably look like hell as soon as you start to tighten the fastners holding the rail to the boat
it would be better to have a solid spacer behind there if you feel the need for something other than a foam sealing/weatherstrip tape...
it would be better to have a solid spacer behind there if you feel the need for something other than a foam sealing/weatherstrip tape...
Centerline - Is there any particular brand of sealing/weatherstrip tape you suggest? Suggestions of where to purchase it?
I have no particular recommendations. but your local marine store should be able to help you....
my thoughts are that with the aluminum over the top of it, (which is a great UV barrier) any good camper tape would give satisfactory results for 10-15 years... without any further care.
im sure you will find a better quality tape that what was in there originally.... the marine store may have something specifically made for that application.
and when you replace the fasteners, I would dab each one, around the threads below the head, with a sealer of your choice so that it insures a good seal to prevent water from working its way around the fastener and into the boat.
when you tighten the fasteners, the sealing tape should squeeze around the screw and seal it, but a bit of additional sealer/lubricant during install will help it to seat in and seal securely...
and my recommendation would be to seal the top seam between the aluminum rail and the fiberglass with the UV stabilized 3M-4000 or even the 5200... but definitely the UV version of it.
by doing this, it will keep out most of the dirt and dust that is carried by the rain into any little crack and crevice that it can get into.... its very harmful to a healthy deck joint.
Styx, you might consider using butyl tape instead of rubber. Might provide more sealing capacity against water. You might also use it in addition to the rubber. Maybe Maine Sail can pipe in here? Would this be a good application for your tape? Would it get too expensive? (Myself, I love the stuff. I'm always looking for something to use it on. ;-)
Is the rail stainless? Aluminum? I thought stainless, no matter. If you get against a piling with it, regardless if it's bolted flush up against the fiberglass, or has 6 inches of rubber behind it, it can bend. The glass part is insignificant, it would matter little if it were bolted to titanium, it'll still bend.
The rubber will make up for the differences in the gaps that WILL be there, because there is no possible way that it will bolt up flush against the boat, unless it has screws about every two inches, and probably not then.
It had rubber between them initially didn't it?
And that's also why I said seal it with butyl.
The rubber will make up for the differences in the gaps that WILL be there, because there is no possible way that it will bolt up flush against the boat, unless it has screws about every two inches, and probably not then.
It had rubber between them initially didn't it?
And that's also why I said seal it with butyl.
it didn't have rubber, it had foam tape. and your right, butyl will probably work. i have never used the butyl tape. as good as it may be, i will never recommend something I haven't tried...
and why wouldn't a straight piece of aluminum not fit against a reasonably level surface... I have dealt with many, many rub rails on fiberglass boats and they all can be fitted snugly, not water tight, but nicely to a boat along the top edge of the rail... sometimes the way the hull and deck are fitted makes it impossible for the lower edge to fit like it was designed to...
if the rail is installed properly, and up against the fiberglass, it will be substantially more durable than if it has a rubber cushion behind it holding it away from the fiberglass....
one reason is... if it has a cushion behind it, you will never get the screws/bolts tight without dimpling the rail where the fasteners are because the fasteners will compress the rubber.... and it wont be compressed where there are no fasteners.... maybe if it had fasteners every 2 inches it would be better. (it should have a fastener every 3 to 5 inches)
reason 2 is, if you don't get the bolts reasonably tight, and the rail is floating on rubber, as soon as you get against a piling, it wont only bend it inward, it could very easily pull it up or down a little..... not much but enough to make it ugly.... or it could get a sliver of wood under it and rip it loose.
reason 3 is, with it bolted flush against the fiberglass, if there is enough surge to push the rail and the side of the boat in together, either the fiberglass will push the soft aluminum back out but still looking uniform with the side of the boat, or.. it wont. and then it will be a bit more than a new aluminum rubrail
reason 4 is... like anything else, the rail has to have a firm foundation for longevity.... put the rubber on the outside if you need a spongy bumper effect.
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