JD, easiest way is to take the panels out at the back of the cabin so you have clear access to the back of the tanks. While underway, motor is fine, the stern will be submerged, you will see water coming in if you have leaks. The water ended up in our bathroom floor also, guess there is a passage to it somehow.
I keep meaning to pull that aft panel down before getting underway in order to get a better look while motoring, but somehow as soon as I get out of the marina, the sails go up, the motor goes off, and before I know it, I'm sailing and can't remember there ever being any other problems.
Here's an interesting article: The Hull-to-Deck Joint - Good Old Boat It looks like this is one of the few places where 5200 is entirely appropriate. I'm not sure what was applied originally, but there seems to have been a pattern of poor workmanship in sealing that joint, particularly at the transom where it regularly goes under water. I guess it might depend on how well the joint can be cleaned out and opened up in order to accept new sealant. If (when?) I ever have to perform this surgery, I might consider applying a couple layers of fiberglass over the joint and then following that up with 4200 to seal the screws that attach the rub rail as Jay described earlier in the thread. Then again, I have zero (0, zilch, nada) experience with this so who knows?
The yard recommends only applying 5200 and not covering the edge with glass since it can crack when hit. I'm still looking for an alternative to put over the edge after applying 5200.I keep meaning to pull that aft panel down before getting underway in order to get a better look while motoring, but somehow as soon as I get out of the marina, the sails go up, the motor goes off, and before I know it, I'm sailing and can't remember there ever being any other problems.
Here's an interesting article: The Hull-to-Deck Joint - Good Old Boat It looks like this is one of the few places where 5200 is entirely appropriate. I'm not sure what was applied originally, but there seems to have been a pattern of poor workmanship in sealing that joint, particularly at the transom where it regularly goes under water. I guess it might depend on how well the joint can be cleaned out and opened up in order to accept new sealant. If (when?) I ever have to perform this surgery, I might consider applying a couple layers of fiberglass over the joint and then following that up with 4200 to seal the screws that attach the rub rail as Jay described earlier in the thread. Then again, I have zero (0, zilch, nada) experience with this so who knows?
Hi all. I tried this for the aft cabin but was not successfull, could not get much pressure.
