REWIRING - Help

[Everlong 25]

Okay, spring is just around the corner and I promised myself that I would replace the 34 year old wire in my 25. I do have the schematic, but it's really does not appear to be too complicated without it. With that said, a couple of qustions:

1. Should I stay with the original wire gauge? I know if I go a little bigger, I would draw less.

2. Anyone have a good source for REASONABLE spools of marine grade wire?

3. I'm thinking of adding a single solar panel to keep a charge to the battery. The boat is moored and I figure I need at least an 8 watt panel. Any suggestions for a regulator (or for a solar panel).

Thanks in advance.

 

[appleman]

I get all my wire and supplies from this online vendor
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine Electrical Supply/
Also check out the thread on battery cables. Prices are compared there.

I use the Sunsei 6w panel for while I am away from the boat. I mount it on the Sunsei solar grip. It will only keep the battery toped up.

 

[Everlong 25]

I get all my wire and supplies from this online vendor
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine Electrical Supply/
Also check out the thread on battery cables. Prices are compared there.

Actually, the prices look pretty good. Did you use the duplex wire? That seems to make the most sense since you are only snaking one wire instead of 2.

 

[appleman]

Actually, the prices look pretty good. Did you use the duplex wire? That seems to make the most sense since you are only snaking one wire instead of 2.

I used four wire, but in any case yes it make it much neater and easier.

 

[Joe11688]

Check the gauge of your wire with a Sta-Con crimping tool. If the conductors are say, #16 copper stranded, you can go to "14 if you wish. The larger conductor will off less resistance, and current draw will stay the same as well as the breaker size. For most wire runs, the marine duplex will suffice, but if your mast has a steaming light along with the mast head anchor light, you may want to go with either a three conductor or four conductor jacketed wire, as you will need a common ground for both lights, plus a separate hot leg for each light on two different breakers.
Joe

 

[Everlong 25]

Check the gauge of your wire with a Sta-Con crimping tool. If the conductors are say, #16 copper stranded, you can go to "14 if you wish. The larger conductor will off less resistance, and current draw will stay the same as well as the breaker size. For most wire runs, the marine duplex will suffice, but if your mast has a steaming light along with the mast head anchor light, you may want to go with either a three conductor or four conductor jacketed wire, as you will need a common ground for both lights, plus a separate hot leg for each light on two different breakers.
Joe

Joe, Thanks for the advice....I thought you mentioned you were an old spark chaser. I think I will go up to 14 gauge. I don't have any AC wiring right now, but I think I will probably save that for the 2010 upgrade. I'll probably hire that out though since I want to be overly cautious with the AC stuff.

Chuck
Everlong 25 Warren RI

 

[Joe11688]

Hi Chuck,
Yes, I'm an old lineman from way back, and---I don't miss it. I have to pull the wire out of my mast in a couple of weeks and try to repair it somehow. The problem that I have is; I have Z-Spar with internal halyards, a steaming light and an anchor light. I've never had a problem with my wiring in that mast until I had the steaming light installed. I may remove the steaming light and splice the wires through. I've probably used that steaming light about three times. I bought a new sheave block for my Jib halyard, and I have to install that. So I may as well fix my wiring while I'm at it. Good Luck!
Joe