Repurposing a Rope Clutch

[dkinzer]

On our 41DS with in-mast furling, the main halyard runs from a turning block on the mast base, through a deck organizer, and on to a dedicated rope clutch in the cockpit. It is, of course, rarely used. The topping lift line, which could be used for various lifting duties, is secured at the mast on a cleat and there is no winch there to use with it. I'm thinking about how I could secure the main halyard at the mast and, instead, run the topping lift line to the cockpit in its place.

My thought was to mount a rope clutch on the mast for the main halyard and add another turning block at the mast base for it so that I could still use the winch for the main halyard on the rare occasions when it is needed. Then, I would use the turning block at the mast base that was being used for the main halyard for the topping lift line and run it to the cockpit in place of the main halyard.

I suspect that the mast material is too thin to mount a rope clutch directly to it. Instead, I would probably need to mount a slab of aluminum to the mast that is thick enough to be drilled/tapped for the rope clutch mounting bolts.

I would like to hear some thoughts on this idea.

 

[shemandr]

So, I'm assuming that you have in-mast furling since you say you don't adjust the halyard very much.
There are clutches that mount on the mast. They have a lock so that when you crank on a halyard they lock the halyard at that tension. But they have a snap up feature that allows relatively easy release. I can't recall the name and I couldn't find them on the web. But I've used them on boats I've sailed on. I'm a little skeptical that you could leave a halyard in the stopper long term but it might not be worse than a line stopper.
Adding a bigger deck organizer or a larger line stopper would require removing the headliner which I would avoid. I'd go with another turning block on the lower mast to go to the winch on occasion. It wouldn't look clean but is a practical solution.
Replacing a halyard for a topping lift? I'm not sold on that idea.

 

[Joe]

Since you never use it, why do you need to buy another clutch? Just install a horn cleat. All you really need is a double block at the mast base, and the horn cleat somewhere near the halyard winch. Then you'd have both TL and Main halyard running aft... that can use the winch if needed and you don't have to mess with the mast at all.

 

[Davidasailor26]

We have a mast mounted clutch for our roller furling jib halyard. I’m not sure if there’s any kind of backing plate inside the mast or just the rivets.

Before switching the clutch to handle topping lift make sure that the TL line size is within specs for that clutch. The clutches are designed to accommodate certain line size ranges, and of the TL is too small it won’t grab properly.

 

[sail sfbay]

My Hunter has a rope clutch mounted on the side of the mast for the jib halyard, albeit it is run through deck organizer to a rope clutch on the top of the cabin accessible from the cockpit, as does the mainsail halyard. So I do not believe the mast is too thin to install a rope clutch for the mainsail halyard. Keep in mind, the benefit of running the halyards to the cockpit rope clutches is to allow you to winch the halyards to the appropriate tension, which cannot be done with a winch. Also, the topping lift, which is cleated off on a horn cleat mounted on the mast, can easily be tensioned by hand without a winch and is rarely adjusted on an in-mast mainsail.

 

[jssailem]

It is old school but a solid option. Just secure the halyard to a cleat. Be it at the mast or in the cockpit. Why you ask. Because it is a failure free option. As nice and sexy the clutch is when it fails to release the main halyard in a sudden blow and you need to lower the mainsail now, the only option is to cut the line and watch the halyard rise up the mast. A cleat will not jam. Sail comes down. Halyard is saved. Crew is happy beer money does not have to go to buying a replacement clutch and halyard.

 

[Parsons]

How about a line constrictor to reduce the chafe on the (single) point where the clutch or cleat contacts the line? They were designed for ocean racing where halyards are left up for long periods, and this spreads the load over a foot or more of line.

Cousin Trestec Constrictor 10 review – Yachting World

Based on the principle of a Chinese finger trap, the Cousin Trestec Constrictor 10 is a lightweight, high-load, simple and effective clutch replacement that will release ropes easily

www.yachtingworld.com

Constrictor - Textile Rope Clutch

Constrictor - Textile Rope Clutch Twice the Holding Power with NO Abrasion

www.fisheriessupply.com

 

[AaronD]

I suspect that the mast material is too thin to mount a rope clutch directly to it. Instead, I would probably need to mount a slab of aluminum to the mast that is thick enough to be drilled/tapped for the rope clutch mounting bolts.

I can't speak to the strength of your spar (and the cleat vs. clutch vs. constrictor debate is up to you), but when I was nervous about mounting to a thin boom, I made a little insert of G10 fiberglass, sanded to match the spar's inside radius and tapped for the mounting screws. Description and pictures near the bottom of this post. One possibility to add to your options.

 

[dkinzer]

We have a mast mounted clutch for our roller furling jib halyard.

I decided to mount a horn cleat on the mast for the jib halyard (port side) and the main halyard (starboard side). This frees up a clutch on both sides of the cockpit so I ran the topping lift line in place of the main halyard. I don't have any specific use in mind for the freed up clutch on the port side yet but having the jib halyard coiled at the mast reduces the clutter in the cockpit a bit. Both the headsail and the main are on furlers so the halyards are seldom used.

The attached photo shows the cleat mounted on the port side. I made the base plate from 1/4" aluminum bar which is drilled for the 1/4" blind rivets holding it to the mast. The cleat is attached to the base plate with two 316 stainless 1/4-20 machine screws (with never-sieze compound on the threads). I did put a thin coat of 5200 sealant between the base plate and the mast just to reduce the likelihood of water ingress behind the plate.