WOW! I just read the other thread (rant?) about the Catalina with the M25-XPB.
The complaints in that thread are:
- broken fuel filter bracket (repeated)
- rough idle
- broken wires
- starter solenoid
- lift pump
- hard to bleed
- fuel pump
- (raw) water pump
- shaft drive for the raw water pump
- heat exchanger bracket
I will say that I learned a lot about my M25 motor in the 8 years that I have had it, and the engine is original from 1986. I would NOT trade it for a Yanmar.
I believe that the Kubota engine on which it is based is a great engine. Universal/Westerbeake, however have done a piss poor job with their marinization of it. Kubota engines are also the base from which Beta Marine makes their engines. I believe that Beta Marine have done a better job with their marinization.
I'll address each of the concerns raised in the other thread:
o I have not had any problems with the fuel filter bracket, so I don't know what that's all about.
o The idle for these engines should be set as follows;
My idle is set to 900 on my M25 (Kubota D-850), and I have no issues.
o I have a complete spare starter (~$80) but it has not been needed, as my engine starts fine.
o The electric Facet lift pump is easy to service (there is a filter in there) and these are readily available through Amazon and auto parts stores (NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.).
o Bleeding is rediculously easy! Open the bleed valve, and turn the key to "on" for 1 minute. Turn the key to "off" then close the bleed valve. I have bled Yanmars, and the process is tedious.
o There were two different manufacturers of the raw water pump; Oberdorfer and Sherwood. The Oberdorfer pump (NM202-15) has a bronze pump body, and it can be rebuilt. You can also replace the Oberdorfer pump for less than $250. I rebuilt my Oberdorfer in 2010, and it has been fine ever since. I have a spare if I need it. The Sherwood pump has a ferrous pump body (steel or iron - don't remember which) and antcedotally I have learned that these are good for about two seasons or 150 engine hours.
o I PREFER to have a shaft driven pump, so long as the shaft will not bind to the pump body (and it won't if you have an Oberdorfer pump). Changing the impeller can be done easilly without removing the entire pump, bracket, belt, and cover, as you must with a Yanmar.
o I've never had a problem with the heat exchanger bracket.
Not mentioned in the other thread were the following upgrades that I recommend to everyone with one of these engines:
- The heat exchanger was undersized by Universal. I suggest that everyone upgrade from the 2¼" diameter heat exchanger to a 3".
- The original alternator mounting bracket is an oil spill waiting to happen. The alternator with this bracket is mounted to a boss on the timing case cover. Vibration of the alternator will cause this boss to break, and it will spill oil out of the engine. There is an upgraded version of the alternator mounting bracket, and this should be replaced ASAP if it has not been done already. Here is a picture of my engine with the new style bracket installed supporting a Leece-Nevill 90A alternator;
- The plumbing that carries engine coolant to the hot water heater was initially between the heat exchanger and the exhaust manifold. For several reasons, this is the wrong place to make this connection. The correct location for this is in the thermostat bypass loop which runs from the thermostat housing to the belt driven coolant pump on the engine.
- The trailer plug connectors is another well known and documented issue. Remove the trailer plugs and replace with terminal strips.
- The original AMP meter was wired IN SERIES with the rest of the electrical system. REMOVE the AMP meter, and re-design and document your electrical system. This is my diagram;
