I own a 2004 Hunter 36. Before attempting to replace my head and sanitary hoses, I searched SailBoat.net for notes regarding this task. I found several helpful suggestions on the blog including Peggy Hall's book. I highly recommend Peggy's book. If you are attempting to remedy your sanitation issues, it is very practical and thorough. For replacing the sanitation hoses. I took Peggy’s suggestion and purchased 20' of Triden 101 hose (white color, 102 is black) from Defender.com. A little pricier than West Marine hose, but significantly more substantial!
After thoroughly cleaning the waste tank and head via multiple flushes of fresh water, I flushed Raritan CP through the hoses to the tank. Next, I removed the entire rear stateroom bedding to expose the access points, which lie under the bedding. The access points under the bedding along the port side of the bed area provide access to the sanitation hose. The access to the tank, vent hose and macerator pump are through a hatch at the very rear of the aft stateroom. On my boat there are two latches holding the access panel in place. Once you unhook the latches, you can lift up and pull out the panel. It’s a tight fit so be patient.
Under the bedding area, the sanitation hose is attached to a bulkhead in three locations. These are easily accessed via the hatches in the aft stateroom compartment under the bed. Note, there are three storage lockers at the very rear aft stateroom compartment. These are hinged lockers just beyond the bedding area and have hinges. The compartment on the port side lifts up and you should find one zip tie mounted to a bulkhead. Remove the screw and cut the zip tie. The other two can be accessed through the hatches on the port side. There should be two. Unscrew and cut-off these zip ties.
The real challenge lies under the shower floor. Hunter, in its infinite wisdom, zip tied together the sanitation hose and the sump hoses in an inaccessible position! You can pull all day to attempt to remove the hose but forget it! You must cut and remove the zip tie!
My approach was to cut an access hole at the point where the sanitation hose emerges from under the shower pan. This is accessed via the aft stateroom hatch closest to the engine.
After expanding the access hole, I inserted my iPhone camera and snapped a few photos to see exactly where the zip tie was located. Once located, I pulled the sanitation hose toward me and with a cutter in hand, felt around until I located the zip tie. Once located, I cut the zip tie and removed it. With that zip tie removed, the sanitation hose can now be removed.
The next step was to remove the head. Once the sanitation hose was removed from the head, I inserted a rag in the hose end to keep any fumes from entering the boat. Next, I disconnected the sanitation hose at the tank. I used a hair dryer to heat the hose to help remove it. It does take some time but be patient as this procedure does work. Once removed, I inserted a 1 3/4” barb and 1/ ¾” NPT connector and screwed a cap on the NPT thread seal-off any fumes. Next I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder mount and out the port transom locker. This makes it a straight shot to pull out the old hose!
Next, I laid the new sanitation hose on the boat deck and pushed one end through the shower port window. Next I inserted a 1 3/4” double barbed PVC connector into the head-end of the old sanitation hose and the end of the new sanitation hose. Before inserting the barbed connector into the old and new sanitation hoses ends, I put a good amount of PVC cement on each barb. Once dried, I further secured the two ends with duct tape.
Next I pushed the sanitizing hose through the cut out in the shower floor. This cutout is the one next to the head. I then went to the dock and began to pull the old sanitation hose out the port transom locker. I repeated this several times until the old sanitation hose was completely pulled through boat. I then cut the PVC coupler off from the new sanitation hose and quickly took the old hose out to the dumpster!
Next, I removed the sanitation hose from the macerator thru-hull. Use a pan to catch any discharge. Next, reach through the access in the aft cabin to access the clamps at the macerator pump. Remove those clamps. Remember to use a hair dryer if they are stuck on the fittings. My macerator hides came off the fittings pretty easy. Next, I pulled the macerator hose out the port transom locker and took it to the dumpster.
Next I ran a 4’ section of 1” Trident 101 hose through the port transom locker around the rudderpost and up to the macerator pump. I double clamped the hose to the macerator thru-hull and the macerator pump.
Next, I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder post and up to the tank fitting. Measure and cut the sanitation hose to fit and double clamp to the tank fitting.
Next, measure and cut the sanitation hose and connect to the head. Secure the sanitation hose and clean up and spills.
That’s it! Have a beer and relax!
After thoroughly cleaning the waste tank and head via multiple flushes of fresh water, I flushed Raritan CP through the hoses to the tank. Next, I removed the entire rear stateroom bedding to expose the access points, which lie under the bedding. The access points under the bedding along the port side of the bed area provide access to the sanitation hose. The access to the tank, vent hose and macerator pump are through a hatch at the very rear of the aft stateroom. On my boat there are two latches holding the access panel in place. Once you unhook the latches, you can lift up and pull out the panel. It’s a tight fit so be patient.
Under the bedding area, the sanitation hose is attached to a bulkhead in three locations. These are easily accessed via the hatches in the aft stateroom compartment under the bed. Note, there are three storage lockers at the very rear aft stateroom compartment. These are hinged lockers just beyond the bedding area and have hinges. The compartment on the port side lifts up and you should find one zip tie mounted to a bulkhead. Remove the screw and cut the zip tie. The other two can be accessed through the hatches on the port side. There should be two. Unscrew and cut-off these zip ties.
The real challenge lies under the shower floor. Hunter, in its infinite wisdom, zip tied together the sanitation hose and the sump hoses in an inaccessible position! You can pull all day to attempt to remove the hose but forget it! You must cut and remove the zip tie!
My approach was to cut an access hole at the point where the sanitation hose emerges from under the shower pan. This is accessed via the aft stateroom hatch closest to the engine.
After expanding the access hole, I inserted my iPhone camera and snapped a few photos to see exactly where the zip tie was located. Once located, I pulled the sanitation hose toward me and with a cutter in hand, felt around until I located the zip tie. Once located, I cut the zip tie and removed it. With that zip tie removed, the sanitation hose can now be removed.
The next step was to remove the head. Once the sanitation hose was removed from the head, I inserted a rag in the hose end to keep any fumes from entering the boat. Next, I disconnected the sanitation hose at the tank. I used a hair dryer to heat the hose to help remove it. It does take some time but be patient as this procedure does work. Once removed, I inserted a 1 3/4” barb and 1/ ¾” NPT connector and screwed a cap on the NPT thread seal-off any fumes. Next I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder mount and out the port transom locker. This makes it a straight shot to pull out the old hose!
Next, I laid the new sanitation hose on the boat deck and pushed one end through the shower port window. Next I inserted a 1 3/4” double barbed PVC connector into the head-end of the old sanitation hose and the end of the new sanitation hose. Before inserting the barbed connector into the old and new sanitation hoses ends, I put a good amount of PVC cement on each barb. Once dried, I further secured the two ends with duct tape.
Next I pushed the sanitizing hose through the cut out in the shower floor. This cutout is the one next to the head. I then went to the dock and began to pull the old sanitation hose out the port transom locker. I repeated this several times until the old sanitation hose was completely pulled through boat. I then cut the PVC coupler off from the new sanitation hose and quickly took the old hose out to the dumpster!
Next, I removed the sanitation hose from the macerator thru-hull. Use a pan to catch any discharge. Next, reach through the access in the aft cabin to access the clamps at the macerator pump. Remove those clamps. Remember to use a hair dryer if they are stuck on the fittings. My macerator hides came off the fittings pretty easy. Next, I pulled the macerator hose out the port transom locker and took it to the dumpster.
Next I ran a 4’ section of 1” Trident 101 hose through the port transom locker around the rudderpost and up to the macerator pump. I double clamped the hose to the macerator thru-hull and the macerator pump.
Next, I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder post and up to the tank fitting. Measure and cut the sanitation hose to fit and double clamp to the tank fitting.
Next, measure and cut the sanitation hose and connect to the head. Secure the sanitation hose and clean up and spills.
That’s it! Have a beer and relax!
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