Replacing Sanitation Hose on 2004 Hunter 36

Nov 9, 2017
3
Hunter 36 San Pedro, CA
I own a 2004 Hunter 36. Before attempting to replace my head and sanitary hoses, I searched SailBoat.net for notes regarding this task. I found several helpful suggestions on the blog including Peggy Hall's book. I highly recommend Peggy's book. If you are attempting to remedy your sanitation issues, it is very practical and thorough. For replacing the sanitation hoses. I took Peggy’s suggestion and purchased 20' of Triden 101 hose (white color, 102 is black) from Defender.com. A little pricier than West Marine hose, but significantly more substantial!

After thoroughly cleaning the waste tank and head via multiple flushes of fresh water, I flushed Raritan CP through the hoses to the tank. Next, I removed the entire rear stateroom bedding to expose the access points, which lie under the bedding. The access points under the bedding along the port side of the bed area provide access to the sanitation hose. The access to the tank, vent hose and macerator pump are through a hatch at the very rear of the aft stateroom. On my boat there are two latches holding the access panel in place. Once you unhook the latches, you can lift up and pull out the panel. It’s a tight fit so be patient.

Under the bedding area, the sanitation hose is attached to a bulkhead in three locations. These are easily accessed via the hatches in the aft stateroom compartment under the bed. Note, there are three storage lockers at the very rear aft stateroom compartment. These are hinged lockers just beyond the bedding area and have hinges. The compartment on the port side lifts up and you should find one zip tie mounted to a bulkhead. Remove the screw and cut the zip tie. The other two can be accessed through the hatches on the port side. There should be two. Unscrew and cut-off these zip ties.

The real challenge lies under the shower floor. Hunter, in its infinite wisdom, zip tied together the sanitation hose and the sump hoses in an inaccessible position! You can pull all day to attempt to remove the hose but forget it! You must cut and remove the zip tie!

My approach was to cut an access hole at the point where the sanitation hose emerges from under the shower pan. This is accessed via the aft stateroom hatch closest to the engine.

After expanding the access hole, I inserted my iPhone camera and snapped a few photos to see exactly where the zip tie was located. Once located, I pulled the sanitation hose toward me and with a cutter in hand, felt around until I located the zip tie. Once located, I cut the zip tie and removed it. With that zip tie removed, the sanitation hose can now be removed.

The next step was to remove the head. Once the sanitation hose was removed from the head, I inserted a rag in the hose end to keep any fumes from entering the boat. Next, I disconnected the sanitation hose at the tank. I used a hair dryer to heat the hose to help remove it. It does take some time but be patient as this procedure does work. Once removed, I inserted a 1 3/4” barb and 1/ ¾” NPT connector and screwed a cap on the NPT thread seal-off any fumes. Next I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder mount and out the port transom locker. This makes it a straight shot to pull out the old hose!

Next, I laid the new sanitation hose on the boat deck and pushed one end through the shower port window. Next I inserted a 1 3/4” double barbed PVC connector into the head-end of the old sanitation hose and the end of the new sanitation hose. Before inserting the barbed connector into the old and new sanitation hoses ends, I put a good amount of PVC cement on each barb. Once dried, I further secured the two ends with duct tape.

Next I pushed the sanitizing hose through the cut out in the shower floor. This cutout is the one next to the head. I then went to the dock and began to pull the old sanitation hose out the port transom locker. I repeated this several times until the old sanitation hose was completely pulled through boat. I then cut the PVC coupler off from the new sanitation hose and quickly took the old hose out to the dumpster!

Next, I removed the sanitation hose from the macerator thru-hull. Use a pan to catch any discharge. Next, reach through the access in the aft cabin to access the clamps at the macerator pump. Remove those clamps. Remember to use a hair dryer if they are stuck on the fittings. My macerator hides came off the fittings pretty easy. Next, I pulled the macerator hose out the port transom locker and took it to the dumpster.

Next I ran a 4’ section of 1” Trident 101 hose through the port transom locker around the rudderpost and up to the macerator pump. I double clamped the hose to the macerator thru-hull and the macerator pump.

Next, I pushed the sanitation hose around the rudder post and up to the tank fitting. Measure and cut the sanitation hose to fit and double clamp to the tank fitting.

Next, measure and cut the sanitation hose and connect to the head. Secure the sanitation hose and clean up and spills.

That’s it! Have a beer and relax!
 

Attachments

Dec 2, 1997
8,708
- - LIttle Rock
For replacing the sanitation hoses. I took Peggy’s suggestion and purchased 20' of Triden 101 hose (white color, 102 is black)
Good job! And I love it that only you found my book useful in doing it, but you actually followed the instructions! Only one corrections: Trident 101 is black...102 is the white (more expensive) version.

Under the bedding area, the sanitation hose is attached to a bulkhead in three locations. These are easily accessed via the hatches in the aft stateroom compartment under the bed. Note, there are three storage lockers at the very rear aft stateroom compartment. These are hinged lockers just beyond the bedding area and have hinges. The compartment on the port side lifts up and you should find one zip tie mounted to a bulkhead. Remove the screw and cut the zip tie. The other two can be accessed through the hatches on the port side. There should be two. Unscrew and cut-off these zip ties.
Count your blessings if you only ran into a few easily accessible zip ties. One of the first jobs my (then) fledging company got was to replace stinking hoses on a 38' motor yacht. The builder had run both the discharge hose and the vent line from the tank that was under the sole at the foot of the master berth in the bow all the way to the cockpit...and had neatly c-clamped both hoses to the hull every 3'. There was no way to access 'em to remove 'em without dismantling the entire starboard side of the cabin. That one was the worst, but it was my introduction to discovering that boat builders are the WORST sanitation plumbers on the planet!
 
Nov 9, 2017
3
Hunter 36 San Pedro, CA
Thank you Peggy, sounds like I had it easy; ha,ha. Thank you for correcting my error. I’m a bit dyslexic!
 
Jul 6, 2017
158
Hunter H 41DS Hampton, VA
I have the same boat. Thanks for the detailed review. My family complains a lot about the smell from the sanitary system. In my case the odors are only present when the head is flushed and the vent gasses stink at the tank vent fitting. I need to clean my tank but the tank clean out port was cracked and was therfore sealed and then glued shut. It's never coming off. What is the best way to add another 4 or 6" dia clean out to the tank? Where can I get one? I don't think the tank can come out without tearing the boat apart.

Thanks
 
Nov 9, 2017
3
Hunter 36 San Pedro, CA
TM. When you say tank clean out port, I’m not sure what you mean. Do you mean the deck pump out? I’m not aware of another clean out port other than the pump out deck fitting.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,809
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
I know some one will disagree but from the time my boat was new when ever some one used the head a horrible odor would come out the vent while we would be in the cockpit and tried all
the chemicals but added a vent filter and on my second filter since 2007.
I have cleaned out the holding tank but we all know when pumped out never get it all out but even when offshore flushed it out the macerated but the vent filter works great.
I saw a post how to redo the filter DIY with new charcoal and foam and cut filter in half and will
try this rebuild myself next filter change.
Nick
 
Jul 6, 2017
158
Hunter H 41DS Hampton, VA
There is a 4" dia threaded clean out plug screwed into a fitting on top of the tank.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,708
- - LIttle Rock
You don't need access to the inside of the tank to clean it out--something that should be done at least 2-3 x season and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup. Pump out the tank, then put 2-3 gallons of water into it via the deck pumpout fitting--'cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out...pump that out. Repeat...repeat...until you're pumping out clean water. It's even easier if you can do it offshore and have a macerator: use the washdown pump. Put a few gallons of water into the tank via the deck pumpout fitting and then keep the pump running while you run the macerator long enough to get all the sludge out of the tank. (I'm really surprised that Nick's been here 11 years without finding out how to do this...I must have posted it more than a dozen times.)

As for how to eliminate odor out the vent, oxygen is the key. When organic matter breaks down anaerobically (without oxygen) it generates sulphur dioxide and hydrgen sulfide gasses, which not only stink but are toxic, and methane which is odorless but flammable. But when organic matter breaks down aerobically (oxygenated environment) it converts to CO2 which is odorless. So solution is a vent line that allows more air exchange with the gasses in the tank. Over the years there have been volumes of discussion on this site about how to do that...search for "holding tank odor" and you'll find 'em. Or, if that requires more effort than it's worth to you, it's discussed in detail in my book (see link in my signature)...that chapter is in the section "Getting Rid of Boat Odors" and is named "Holding Tank Odors--Odor Out the Vent." Wherever you find it, I'm always glad to answer any questions it doesn't.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,735
Hunter 49 toronto
A good trick
I find that is can be quite difficult to remove old hoses, but even harder to put new ones on.
To remove, I'd use a heat gun ( rather than a hair dryer)
But, the best trick in the world is when you are putting the hoses on
Just boil a small pot of water on the Stove with about 5 inches on water in it.
Once it has come to a good boil, remove it
Now, just take the end of the hose & put it in the hot water. 2 minutes tops.
It will slide on like butter.'
Works fir anything from 1/2" to full sized waste hose. Really good trick
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,708
- - LIttle Rock
Just boil a small pot of water on the Stove with about 5 inches on water in it. Once it has come to a good boil, remove it Now, just take the end of the hose & put it in the hot water. 2 minutes tops.
And then you get to do all that again with the next hose connection. In less time than it takes the water to boil, you can WARM the hose with a blow dryer (use a heat gun ONLY if you know what you're doing with one 'cuz you don't want to risk melting the hose) and smear a little dishwashing liquid--or better yet K-Y--on the fitting and the inside of the hose. K-Y is a water soluble surgical jelly, that dries out...won't leave the connection permanently slippery.
 
Jun 1, 2009
1,735
Hunter 49 toronto
Ok, I've tried. Heat gun, hair dryer, and hot water. The hot water works the best by far. Here is why.
It softens up the hose, not just all the around 100% evenly at the same time, but it also heats up the hose on the inside wall as well.
The entire hose end is much softer than trying with air.
As well, it is much more controllable. Dunk the hose end for about 1 1/5 minutes & try to squish it. Still too hard, dunk if for another 30 seconds or more..Extemely repeatable. I FAR prefer this method

Now, I cheat a little bit
I have a microwave on board, so I just fill a large diameter coffee cup with water.
It takes < 2 minutes to boil, and you hold the cup by the handle with 1 hand, and dunk the hose with the other.
Works like magic

No need for soap etc. The hose is so soft it just slides on plus, it's already wet
 
Sep 30, 2007
20
hunter 356 little river
I know some one will disagree but from the time my boat was new when ever some one used the head a horrible odor would come out the vent while we would be in the cockpit and tried all
the chemicals but added a vent filter and on my second filter since 2007.
I have cleaned out the holding tank but we all know when pumped out never get it all out but even when offshore flushed it out the macerated but the vent filter works great.
I saw a post how to redo the filter DIY with new charcoal and foam and cut filter in half and will
try this rebuild myself next filter change.
Nick
Where did you buy the filter.Where exactly do you install the filter.Any pics.
Thanks