Replacing red rubber friction gaskets on h26 rudder

[CHSN WND]

I'm essentially rebuilding my rudder - the upper white plastic gaskets were broken and worn, which caused my Al tiller to become damaged. The red rubber friction gaskets were also worn, causing the rudder to inch up, even when fully tightened. I have a new tiller, upper plastic gaskets, tiller stop and red rubber friction gaskets.

I'm wondering what adhesive to use for the red rubber friction gaskets?

The old gaskets were done differently. One was poorly afixed with what looks like clear marine grade silicone. That one came right off and was torn, probably because it broke loose and was torn when the rudder was raised after coming off the water. The other looks like it was glued on with 3M 5200. I had to use a metal spackle knife and hammer to get the gasket off. Almost every bit of the adhesive is still on the aluminum - I'll have to sand it off. That gasket was most certainly affixed...

I was thinking maybe 3M 4200? It's similar to the 5200, just not as hard when it dries. I've also heard of some using a 2 part epoxy called PC11. I know many have replaced these red gaskets on their 23.5 / 26 / 260 rudders. Please let me know what you used.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dennis Kitchen]

I used contact cement when I re-did mine. 4-5 years ago I'm guessing with no trouble since. I used a red rubber gasget material if I recall.

 

[CHSN WND]

I used contact cement when I re-did mine. 4-5 years ago I'm guessing with no trouble since. I used a red rubber gasget material if I recall.

Thanks, Dennis. My friction gaskets are also a rust-red color - I bought everything from the SBO site, so I gather it's the same as Hunter used originally.

 

[CHSN WND]

I used contact cement when I re-did mine. 4-5 years ago I'm guessing with no trouble since. I used a red rubber gasget material if I recall.

I went with your suggestion and used contact cement - much cheaper than 3M 4200. It seemed to take just fine. I'll be putting everything back together shortly, since the instructions on the contact cement says it should be allowed to cure for 72 hours at temps above 65F (it's been cold up here the past couple of days).
Oh boy, did I have fun sanding the old 5200 off the aluminum. Even 60 grit paper wears away when used on that stuff. 5200 should be used very sparingly...

 

[CHSN WND]

So... I put everything back together, but encountered a possible issue.

I purchased the aluminum replacement tiller from the SBO site. I know most prefer the wood tiller, but I like keeping things original so I paid the extra $ for an aluminum model.

On the up side, the replacement tiller has a squared-off end that fits snug between the aluminum plates on the rudder, whereas the original tiller was simply a bent round tube. This seems like a nice improvement that should help prevent the pin hole in the tiller from getting stretched out if the plastic spacers fail (as happened on mine). It also provides a really solid feel, exactly as it should.

On the down side, the pin hole (where the bolt goes thru the tiller handle inside the aluminum rudder plates) on the original tiller was approx, 6.25 inches forward from the back edge of the tiller. This enabled the old tiller to contact the tiller stop if the tiller was not tended, constantly keeping it in the proper steering position when in the normal, lowered position. The new tiller has approx. 3 inches from the pin hole to the back of the tiller, meaning it will never contact the tiller stop, period. I suppose the way the tiller holds it's position is by friction between the two white plastic plates, but I liked the idea of the tiller stop. It serves no purpose with the new tiller design.

I've asked the SBO store to comment; it's entirely possible that I'm misjudging how the tiller will work (it's in my garage, not on the boat). I think there should be 6.25 inches between the tail end of the replacement tiller and the pin that holds the tiller inside the rudder assembly, just as there was on the original. That would restore functionality to the tiller stop.

Anyone else install an aluminum replacement tiller from the SBO store? Did you have the same issue, or was your tiller a different design?

Thanks!

 

[Charisma]

My wooden handle has approx 6" behind the hole so as to hit the stop and keep it at the appropriate steering hight. Did you Guys separate the rudder head when you replaced the rubber friction gaskets?

 

[isaksp00]

I would see what the store says, but worst case could you insert a slightly smaller aluminum square tube in the tiller end, the right length to extend under the stop on the rudder head? Or even a wood extender?

 

[Fred]

For consideration.... The PO drilled a hole through the rudder side plates and through the rudder blade itself to install a nylon shear pin (essentially a toilet seat bolt). I'm not even sure that my rudder assembly has the friction gasket material mentioned in this post.

 

[CHSN WND]

My wooden handle has approx 6" behind the hole so as to hit the stop and keep it at the appropriate steering hight. Did you Guys separate the rudder head when you replaced the rubber friction gaskets?

You don't really have a choice - you need to disassemble the entire rudder to access the gaskets. The gaskets glue onto the 2 black aluminum side plates. It's no big deal - very easy to figure out,

 

[CHSN WND]

For consideration.... The PO drilled a hole through the rudder side plates and through the rudder blade itself to install a nylon shear pin (essentially a toilet seat bolt). I'm not even sure that my rudder assembly has the friction gasket material mentioned in this post.

I've read of others who have done that. The biggest concern I've heard is that drilling through the rudder can introduce rot.
The new gaskets make a major difference - the rudder holds firmly in place. I have to be careful I don't tighten the tension bolt too much or it may not swing up if necessary...

 

[CHSN WND]

I would see what the store says, but worst case could you insert a slightly smaller aluminum square tube in the tiller end, the right length to extend under the stop on the rudder head? Or even a wood extender?

I have since learned that Hunter shipped me a tiller for an H260, not H26. I'll be returning that one for the correct model...

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

chase wind;
send me a photo of the gaskets, rudder head and the new rudder tiller when you get it via private email. It has been some time and hope all is well. I have a small project modeling the basement now. Framing nearly down.