I have a Jabsco manual pump on my 1999 Hunter 340. It is the version Jabsco started building in 1998. I would like to replace it with a Raritan PH Superflush manual flush. Will it require drilling new holes to attach the toilet and pump or is it an identical match?
Replacing Jabsco with Raritan
- Thread starter XDMusic
- Start date
It's not an identical match. This has been discussed before. Check out this thread.
Best Manual toilet.......
Just got a new boat (to me) that has two electric toilets. While this is neat and everything, there is no way to get the stuff down should the power go down or they break. Would like to replace one with a manual and then keep the other for possible replacement parts. So, what is the most...
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check the threads....you don't have to replace the whole head, just order the pump kit from the chandlery here and reuse your bowl and seat. Yes, the holes are a little different, but they are just lag bolts - just drill pilot holes and install.
Wonderful improvement, we did it on Escape about 10 years ago
Wonderful improvement, we did it on Escape about 10 years ago
I know the holes USED to be different because I've patched a few in the past but I believe now Raritan has changed their pattern so they do line up with the old Jabsco.
The Raritan PH SuperFlush is the current version of their tried and true PHII toilet. It still uses the PHII pump, but Raritan redesigned the base to match mounting bolt pattern for Jabsco and almost all other manual toilets. However, there are a couple of other issues that have always been common to the PHII pump: 1. unlike most other manual toilets, the flush water inlet fitting is on the FRONT of the pump...your flush water intake line may not be long enough. 2. It's shipped with 90 degree discharge fitting...depending on the the route your discharge line needs to take to your tank, you may need to request a straight or 45 fitting. Bottom line, there are a couple of PITA installation issues, but Raritan tech support is VERY supportive (800-352-5630) and once it's installed you're gonna LOVE it, 'cusz it only needs half the pump strokes to move twice the volume. Keep it well lubricated, replace the joker valve annually, put a rebuild kit in it every 5-6 years and it'll provide at least 20 years of reliable trouble-free service.
--Peggie
--Peggie
Just replaced the same toilet (1999 Jabsco) with a Raritan PH Superflush manual flush on my 1999 H-310.
I don't know where all of this myth-information comes from, but comparing the base bolt hole locations on the 1999 Jabsco to the 2020 Raritan, it was a perfect match:
Armed with these two drawings and not a bunch of ill informed opinions, the new Raritan was installed:
The only thing which presented a problem was the 1-1/2" discharge hose which had previously leaked at the attachment flange of the Jabsco. This was as good an opportunity as any to change the tight location of the hose as it penetrated the wall behind the head. This unused hole was covered with a SS polished disk to hide the offending culprit.
I don't know where all of this myth-information comes from, but comparing the base bolt hole locations on the 1999 Jabsco to the 2020 Raritan, it was a perfect match:
Armed with these two drawings and not a bunch of ill informed opinions, the new Raritan was installed:
The only thing which presented a problem was the 1-1/2" discharge hose which had previously leaked at the attachment flange of the Jabsco. This was as good an opportunity as any to change the tight location of the hose as it penetrated the wall behind the head. This unused hole was covered with a SS polished disk to hide the offending culprit.
Says you
.Bending Trident 102 requires the right arm of God to flex it in a tight spot. It's like cast iron even when heated. It was easier to bore a new hole.
Why not tell your boss you've got COVID-19, c'mon out here for a month and I'll show you. Bring the boat and we'll make for the Broughtons
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Can someone explain why all of these toilets do not have a sealed head when the lid is down? Seems like such a simple thing to do to help keep the water from sloshing out in rough seas as well as keeping the stink water stink inside the bowl.
Shouldn't be enough water to "slosh" after pumped in dry mode a couple times, nor stink.
Stick an 8 year old and a 10 year old on a boat for a week and the slosh is real.. i'm thinking of going electric to solve that problem.
A problem you wouldn't have had if you'd paid even the slightest attention to even one of the dozens ofposts in which I've recommended using Raritan SaniFlex RaritanSaniFlex hose instead of Trident 101/102 because SaniFlex has not only proven to be just as odor permeation resistant, but- --unlike 101/102--can be bent like a hairpin without kinking.
Now you know why most marine toilets--unlike household toilets-- aren't designed to hold water in the bowl. Even the ones which have flush "buttons" that make it possible to bring water in and hold it also make it possible to drain the bowl if sea conditions warrant it. It only makes sense to add water to the bowl ahead of solids (if your toilet isn't designed to do that, use a cup from the sink) because doing so keeps the bowl cleaner with a lot less flushing in the wet mode.
Besides, unless the joker valve is replaced at least every 3 months, water won't stay in the bowl long anyway...depending on how old the joker is, it'll seep out or even just drain almost as fast as flushing. That is, unless your toilet is Jabsco "twist 'n' lock" manual--the only toilet that's designed to block the discharge.
Edit: 8 and 10 is old enough to be taught how to use a marine toilet...switching to electric will not solve that problem for you...in fact, could make the problem worse.
--Peggie
There are several that I'm relieved you didn't use!
And fwiw, I've learned quite a few things the hard way too!
--Peggie
And fwiw, I've learned quite a few things the hard way too!
--Peggie
BLaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah !
It fits perfectly now and it AIN'T coming apart again.
I was determined to use the highest quality hose and I know that you have recommended Trident 101/102 for years. Just hadn't noticed your additional references to Saniflex. Truth be told, "Hoses and Heads" are not my first passion in life.There are several that I'm relieved you didn't use!
Nor should they be...and truth be told, they aren't my first passion in life either...helping people solve, or better yet PREVENT problems, is. I landed in sanitation systems by accident when other people wanted to know to get the product I'd found that solved a serious odor problem on our own boat .
Hoses and Heads only need to become a passion in life if you want to prevent problems when you're about to replace/upgrade anything in the system...'cuz that's when you want to learn everything you can from both experts and other boat owners, who may or may not have learned their lessons the hard way If ever, BEFORE you take anything apart...'cuz it's always cheaper and easier to get everything right the FIRST time than it is to do it over. If you don't want to do the research keep in mind that technology changes quickly these days...so at the very least ASK if there's anything better out there before you buy anything!
And btw, this applies to every system on a boat, NOT only to sanitation systems.
--Peggie
Just removed my head and hoses on my 2000 Hunter 320. Running new hose and thanks to this forum will go with the Sani-flex. I considered the Trident but if it's that hard to manipulate I can see much swearing during the install. The Shields 105 also seems good, but is even more expensive, but recommended in the Practical Sailor post.
www.practical-sailor.com
Quick question - are most people using regular hose clamps? Or are the 316 SS expensive clamps the way to go? Also, the inlet clean water hoses is just the regular white helical stuff, whatever it's called? No issue there?
One day maybe will convert to fresh, but I'd anticipate too much water use - only a 50G tank right now.
Thanks!
Marine Sanitation Hose Test - Practical Sailor
Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.
www.practical-sailor.com
Quick question - are most people using regular hose clamps? Or are the 316 SS expensive clamps the way to go? Also, the inlet clean water hoses is just the regular white helical stuff, whatever it's called? No issue there?
One day maybe will convert to fresh, but I'd anticipate too much water use - only a 50G tank right now.
Thanks!