If there is anyone out there who replaced the waste pipe on a Hunter 340, I could sure use your help! To make a long story short, the waste pipe (i.e. the 1 and 1/2" black hose that runs from the head to the waste tank) on my 1999 Hunter 340 needs to be replaced. It was easy enough to disconnect the old pipe/hose from the tank and the toilet but I can't seem to figure out how to pull it out so I can put in the new one. I tried pulling the old pipe from one end and then the other but I can't seem to budge it. No matter what I try, it feels like something is holding it in place. Since I can't see in between the shell and hull to locate the problem, my guess is the hose is either: (a) jammed between the inner shell and the hull at some point or (b) it is somehow anchored in place. The problem is, I can't figure out a way to get at the old pipe to free it without cutting a hole through the inner shell and then sticking my hand and arm in to find the trouble spot. I'm sure it's no surprise that I really don't want to do that, especially since I don't know where to cut the hole in order to reach the problem. If anyone has any experience with this subject, I'm all ears!
Replacing Hunter 340 Waste Pipe
- Thread starter Dave9878
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Once you know how to the get the old hose loose
so you can pull it out, connect the new hose to it and pull it through as you pull out the old hose. Here's how to do that: use a male-male connector. Cut the ends of both the old and the new hose as cleanly as possible...you want to be able to butt them together on the connector to create as smooth unbroken surface as possible that won't get caught on anything. "Glue" each hose onto the connector using PVC cement...do NOT use tape or hose clamps...tape won't hold if you have to pull hard...clamps will get caught on something...and the last thing you want is for the hoses to part company in an inaccessible place. Once you've gotten the old hose out and the new hose through, cut off the new hose right behind the connector.
so you can pull it out, connect the new hose to it and pull it through as you pull out the old hose. Here's how to do that: use a male-male connector. Cut the ends of both the old and the new hose as cleanly as possible...you want to be able to butt them together on the connector to create as smooth unbroken surface as possible that won't get caught on anything. "Glue" each hose onto the connector using PVC cement...do NOT use tape or hose clamps...tape won't hold if you have to pull hard...clamps will get caught on something...and the last thing you want is for the hoses to part company in an inaccessible place. Once you've gotten the old hose out and the new hose through, cut off the new hose right behind the connector.
My sympathies Dave and possibly a little help . .
The waste hose on my 280 is fairly short and accessable but even it could not be removed by pulling from one end. Liner cutouts for the hoses have sharp edges and grip the hose as strong as a clamp. I have sections that I can get to and noticed at least one large tywrap around the hose that is anchored to the liner with a screw. Try to get to any parts of the run you can and located those things and unscrew em - look in all of the bins between the head and tank, remove access lids and look in the stuffing box area . Also, you may have to feed from the middle (like me). I plan to remove mine starting in the middle as I have access to about a 5' section of the run. If you can !only! get to each end, I'm afraid I can be of no help. In any case, Peggy offers excellent advice on pulling in new hose. It is a pain but should only need to be done once ;-)
The waste hose on my 280 is fairly short and accessable but even it could not be removed by pulling from one end. Liner cutouts for the hoses have sharp edges and grip the hose as strong as a clamp. I have sections that I can get to and noticed at least one large tywrap around the hose that is anchored to the liner with a screw. Try to get to any parts of the run you can and located those things and unscrew em - look in all of the bins between the head and tank, remove access lids and look in the stuffing box area . Also, you may have to feed from the middle (like me). I plan to remove mine starting in the middle as I have access to about a 5' section of the run. If you can !only! get to each end, I'm afraid I can be of no help. In any case, Peggy offers excellent advice on pulling in new hose. It is a pain but should only need to be done once ;-)
Thanks for the suggestion Peg. Your advice is always valuable and welcome! I thought about the connector idea but I hadn't considered glueing it inside the new and old hoses. Sounds like a hassle but certainly not as much of a hassle as trying to snake the new hose through if my splice separates! I'll follow your advice if I can ever figure out how to get the old hose out. One question you can help me with is what should I use for a new hose? I bought a 10 ft. section of Shields Sanitation Hose, which I'm sure you know is wire reinforced rubber and supposedly top quality. My impression is it will last longer than white synthetic hose, which is commonly used for water lines. Someone told me recently they thought the white hose would last longer and was less prone to permeation. What's your opinion?
Thanks for the feedback Clark.
I knew there had to be someone out there who faced this problem before. Unfortunately, you confirmed my worst fear, which is the hose is tywrapped in place where I can't reach it! As you suggest, I looked in all the bins and examined every "nook and cranny" to see if I could gain access to the middle of the run but no luck. There's about a 6 ft. section that runs between the liner and the hull that I can't see and can't physically reach. My solution, as dreadful as it sounds, is to cut out a section of liner and hope like hell my arm is long enough to find the tywrap (or whatever it is) and free it. If I can free the old hose, I'm pretty sure I can pull it out from one end if I have a helper feeding in the new hose from the other. What's your thought on cutting through the liner?
I knew there had to be someone out there who faced this problem before. Unfortunately, you confirmed my worst fear, which is the hose is tywrapped in place where I can't reach it! As you suggest, I looked in all the bins and examined every "nook and cranny" to see if I could gain access to the middle of the run but no luck. There's about a 6 ft. section that runs between the liner and the hull that I can't see and can't physically reach. My solution, as dreadful as it sounds, is to cut out a section of liner and hope like hell my arm is long enough to find the tywrap (or whatever it is) and free it. If I can free the old hose, I'm pretty sure I can pull it out from one end if I have a helper feeding in the new hose from the other. What's your thought on cutting through the liner?
H340 Waste hose
I did this on my H336 last year, hose was not tied to anything. Try a combination of pushing and pulling with two people. Peggy has the best idea, but I cut 11/2" wood plugs, inserted them into hose, used hose clamp with piece of coat hanger wire secured by clamp and pulled 3/8" dock line through to pull the new hose. Both operations took two people to push and pull to work the hose around the bends.
I did this on my H336 last year, hose was not tied to anything. Try a combination of pushing and pulling with two people. Peggy has the best idea, but I cut 11/2" wood plugs, inserted them into hose, used hose clamp with piece of coat hanger wire secured by clamp and pulled 3/8" dock line through to pull the new hose. Both operations took two people to push and pull to work the hose around the bends.
Dave, I think Chuck is right about no tywraps . .
especially in light of the fact that only the ends are accessible. Get a helper (at the end with the most free length) to push and wiggle and you do the same at the other end. Once you have established that you are making a little progress, butt-connect the new to the old as Peggy suggests and just keep on keepin on. This will be a PITA but a helping hand and perseverance should do it. Good Luck!
especially in light of the fact that only the ends are accessible. Get a helper (at the end with the most free length) to push and wiggle and you do the same at the other end. Once you have established that you are making a little progress, butt-connect the new to the old as Peggy suggests and just keep on keepin on. This will be a PITA but a helping hand and perseverance should do it. Good Luck!
Sorry. You should PULL as the helper pushes.
Just wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding. Shoulda logged in so I could edit!
Just wanted to make sure there was no misunderstanding. Shoulda logged in so I could edit!
Hunter 340 Waste Pipe
Chuck, When the boat was out of the water over the winter, a buddy and I tried the push-pull technique you described. Frankly I was amazed we could not move the damn hose a bloody inch. We did the twist, the wiggle, the push-pull and the flip-flop. Nothing worked. That's where I got the idea the hose had to be trapped somewhere or tywrapped like Clark described. I'm glad to hear you had much better luck with your H336. Maybe my buddy and I didn't try hard enough. We'll give it another go. When you did yours, was the hose permeated like mine? Did the new hose solve the problem? Did you do anything to improve the venting? The vent on mine is useless. Aside from the fact it is on the stern, the vent hose is only 3/4", shoots straight-up from the tank and has a 180 degree bend in it right where it attaches to the hull fitting. If Peggy ever saw it she'd scream! I plan to attack that next.
Chuck, When the boat was out of the water over the winter, a buddy and I tried the push-pull technique you described. Frankly I was amazed we could not move the damn hose a bloody inch. We did the twist, the wiggle, the push-pull and the flip-flop. Nothing worked. That's where I got the idea the hose had to be trapped somewhere or tywrapped like Clark described. I'm glad to hear you had much better luck with your H336. Maybe my buddy and I didn't try hard enough. We'll give it another go. When you did yours, was the hose permeated like mine? Did the new hose solve the problem? Did you do anything to improve the venting? The vent on mine is useless. Aside from the fact it is on the stern, the vent hose is only 3/4", shoots straight-up from the tank and has a 180 degree bend in it right where it attaches to the hull fitting. If Peggy ever saw it she'd scream! I plan to attack that next.
Interliner Hidden Spaces
I purchased a 3ft long "scope" that contractors use to look into walls. It has a light so I can "see" under the interliner and have used it many times to find where hoses and wires run before cutting holes to add or replace parts. Cost about $300.00, worth every penny!
I purchased a 3ft long "scope" that contractors use to look into walls. It has a light so I can "see" under the interliner and have used it many times to find where hoses and wires run before cutting holes to add or replace parts. Cost about $300.00, worth every penny!
H340 Waste hose
Dave, yes the hose was permeated. The tank was aluminum and about to go after 10 years, so we replaced everything. On the 336 the hose entered the tank from the center of the boat, then down and through an opening then over about a foot to a blind 90 deg turn, then toward the head. Maybe a newbie at the factory did a tie wrap on it a the factory, but should not be there. You could call Hunter and see what they say.
Dave, yes the hose was permeated. The tank was aluminum and about to go after 10 years, so we replaced everything. On the 336 the hose entered the tank from the center of the boat, then down and through an opening then over about a foot to a blind 90 deg turn, then toward the head. Maybe a newbie at the factory did a tie wrap on it a the factory, but should not be there. You could call Hunter and see what they say.
H340 Waste Hose
Chuck, Your waste hose desription re: your H336 sounds exactly like mine..I agree no tywrap SHOULD be there but something is holding it. I'm pretty sure about that. I may have to take Searanch's advice and have it scoped. Good idea! I hadn't thought of that. With luck I can rent one locally rather than buy. Yes, calling Hunter is next on my list. It never hurts to ask... I'll let you know how it finally turns out. I'm really against cutting through the liner if I can avoid it.
Chuck, Your waste hose desription re: your H336 sounds exactly like mine..I agree no tywrap SHOULD be there but something is holding it. I'm pretty sure about that. I may have to take Searanch's advice and have it scoped. Good idea! I hadn't thought of that. With luck I can rent one locally rather than buy. Yes, calling Hunter is next on my list. It never hurts to ask... I'll let you know how it finally turns out. I'm really against cutting through the liner if I can avoid it.
H340 Hose
Dave, the only other thing I can suggest is to enlarge the hole so that you can reach that blind 90 deg turn and inch the hose at that point while someone is pulling from the head.
Dave, the only other thing I can suggest is to enlarge the hole so that you can reach that blind 90 deg turn and inch the hose at that point while someone is pulling from the head.
Good Thought.
Chuck, Good thought. Enlarging the hole would be the "lesser of two evils." Unfortunately, I'm going to have to live with it in the short run. Tomorrow I'm off to cruise the coast of Maine for two weeks...no opportunity to attack the problem between now and then.
Chuck, Good thought. Enlarging the hole would be the "lesser of two evils." Unfortunately, I'm going to have to live with it in the short run. Tomorrow I'm off to cruise the coast of Maine for two weeks...no opportunity to attack the problem between now and then.
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