I began the task of replacing the cabin sole in my Hunter 28.5 and discovered someone squirted a tube of adhesive caulking under the floor to support the rotted portion. The rot is why I am replacing the the sole. I think the glob of adhesive sped the rot process by trapping water from the shower. Anyway, I have half of the floor removed and need to get the adhesive up. Anyone have any suggestions. I do not want to replace the sole with this "cow pie" sized gob of rock hard adhesive still intact. Thanks for any suggestions. Robert
Replacing cabin sole; need help removing adhesive
- Thread starter r. gallagher
- Start date
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try Anti-bond
Here's the manufacturer's description: Antibond Spray This product actually debonds polyurethane adhesives, removes paint overspray on cars, cleans adhesives and sealants off your tools, removes black marks from your boat and RV, and makes marine 3M™ 5200 nonpermanent. This revolutionary product is so technologically advanced that they are discovering new uses for it every day on these surfaces: metal, glass & fiberglass.Note: Do not apply to plastics. There's also a similar product called DeBond 2000: Cleans and Removes Adhesives and Sealants Used on and in the Boat Use Marine Formula™ to clean-up and remove these common marine adhesives and sealants: Features: Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives Caulks & sealants Black rub marks Most graffiti and overspray Adhesive residue Liquid nails Adhesive film from duct and masking tape Wipe away excess spills of sealants and adhesives including 3M™ 5200 Polysulfide sealants Will not harm: gelcoat, clear coat, plexiGlass, awlGrip®, imron® The Anti bond is $18.95 for an 11 ounce aerosol. The De-bond is $15.95. Let me know if you'd like to order. Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com Toll Free 877-932-7245 ext.116, Mon-Fri, 9-5 Pacific.
Here's the manufacturer's description: Antibond Spray This product actually debonds polyurethane adhesives, removes paint overspray on cars, cleans adhesives and sealants off your tools, removes black marks from your boat and RV, and makes marine 3M™ 5200 nonpermanent. This revolutionary product is so technologically advanced that they are discovering new uses for it every day on these surfaces: metal, glass & fiberglass.Note: Do not apply to plastics. There's also a similar product called DeBond 2000: Cleans and Removes Adhesives and Sealants Used on and in the Boat Use Marine Formula™ to clean-up and remove these common marine adhesives and sealants: Features: Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives Caulks & sealants Black rub marks Most graffiti and overspray Adhesive residue Liquid nails Adhesive film from duct and masking tape Wipe away excess spills of sealants and adhesives including 3M™ 5200 Polysulfide sealants Will not harm: gelcoat, clear coat, plexiGlass, awlGrip®, imron® The Anti bond is $18.95 for an 11 ounce aerosol. The De-bond is $15.95. Let me know if you'd like to order. Dave Groshong Customer Service SailboatOwners.com Toll Free 877-932-7245 ext.116, Mon-Fri, 9-5 Pacific.
Ditto: Grinder is your best bet
for the 4 1/2" angle grinder(s) they sell some nice, round sandpaper disks of varying grit (40, 60, 80 - plan on getting several of each grit) so you can take off a little or a lot as you may need (and you do need to be careful not to go too far with a tool like this). For the corners that the 4 1/2" radius will not get into I like the Dremel tool with it's little sanding attachments. If you are handy and like to DIY you will find that the grinder is an invaluable tool. However, it can make a lot of dust rather quickly so you will want to plan on protecting the whole cabin from getting coated in dust. I am pretty sure you already know about shop-vacuums. Good luck.
for the 4 1/2" angle grinder(s) they sell some nice, round sandpaper disks of varying grit (40, 60, 80 - plan on getting several of each grit) so you can take off a little or a lot as you may need (and you do need to be careful not to go too far with a tool like this). For the corners that the 4 1/2" radius will not get into I like the Dremel tool with it's little sanding attachments. If you are handy and like to DIY you will find that the grinder is an invaluable tool. However, it can make a lot of dust rather quickly so you will want to plan on protecting the whole cabin from getting coated in dust. I am pretty sure you already know about shop-vacuums. Good luck.
cabin sole
just replaced mine last month. I found that a putty nife or scraper or chisel " sharp" did as good as anything . just slow going at first. key is having a sharp edge so the tool does the work and not you. Boat is Hunter 30 with 10'2 beam and abt 69 inches in lenght in salon. Good luck and take yopur time, the finshed product will be worth it.
just replaced mine last month. I found that a putty nife or scraper or chisel " sharp" did as good as anything . just slow going at first. key is having a sharp edge so the tool does the work and not you. Boat is Hunter 30 with 10'2 beam and abt 69 inches in lenght in salon. Good luck and take yopur time, the finshed product will be worth it.
jimq26
Plastic and Fiberglass - two totally different items...Not !! Fiberglass is also referred to FRP which stands for Fiber Reinforced Plastic or sometimes GRP which is Glass Reinforced Plastic. The strands of cloth are a form of glass while the resin is plastic. I think. Tony B
Plastic and Fiberglass - two totally different items...Not !! Fiberglass is also referred to FRP which stands for Fiber Reinforced Plastic or sometimes GRP which is Glass Reinforced Plastic. The strands of cloth are a form of glass while the resin is plastic. I think. Tony B
- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
sawzall
if the glob is big enough, you could get a long sawzall blade and run it parrallel to the fiberglass floor and saw it off, then grind whatever is left. I am currently in a major project of totally gutting a morgan 33 outisland. I like the sawzall to do most of the work. Less grinding dust, and less time. I hate grinding. Patrick
if the glob is big enough, you could get a long sawzall blade and run it parrallel to the fiberglass floor and saw it off, then grind whatever is left. I am currently in a major project of totally gutting a morgan 33 outisland. I like the sawzall to do most of the work. Less grinding dust, and less time. I hate grinding. Patrick
- Jul 24, 2006
- 628
sawzall
if the glob is big enough, you could get a long sawzall blade and run it parrallel to the fiberglass floor and saw it off, then grind whatever is left. I am currently in a major project of totally gutting a morgan 33 outisland. I like the sawzall to do most of the work. Less grinding dust, and less time. I hate grinding. Patrick
if the glob is big enough, you could get a long sawzall blade and run it parrallel to the fiberglass floor and saw it off, then grind whatever is left. I am currently in a major project of totally gutting a morgan 33 outisland. I like the sawzall to do most of the work. Less grinding dust, and less time. I hate grinding. Patrick
TonyB , you are bang on correct. Boats are made
with polyester resin dissolved in styrene monomer Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is added as a catalyst to start a chemical reaction that hardens the resin mixture. Without the fiberglass the cured resin looks like hard candy and in almost as brittle. You can soften it with acetone, methyl chloride, methyl ethyl ketone and several other solvents. My early post for removing the mess is the approach that will get the job done most quickly.
with polyester resin dissolved in styrene monomer Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is added as a catalyst to start a chemical reaction that hardens the resin mixture. Without the fiberglass the cured resin looks like hard candy and in almost as brittle. You can soften it with acetone, methyl chloride, methyl ethyl ketone and several other solvents. My early post for removing the mess is the approach that will get the job done most quickly.
TonyB , you are bang on correct. Boats are made
with polyester resin dissolved in styrene monomer Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is added as a catalyst to start a chemical reaction that hardens the resin mixture. Without the fiberglass the cured resin looks like hard candy and in almost as brittle. You can soften it with acetone, methyl chloride, methyl ethyl ketone and several other solvents. My early post for removing the mess is the approach that will get the job done most quickly.
with polyester resin dissolved in styrene monomer Methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is added as a catalyst to start a chemical reaction that hardens the resin mixture. Without the fiberglass the cured resin looks like hard candy and in almost as brittle. You can soften it with acetone, methyl chloride, methyl ethyl ketone and several other solvents. My early post for removing the mess is the approach that will get the job done most quickly.
FRP and HDPE are the same?
I think not. Dave from our chandlery was suggesting the use of an anti-bond product that said unsafe for use on plastics. The manufacturer did state it was ok on fiberglass.
I think not. Dave from our chandlery was suggesting the use of an anti-bond product that said unsafe for use on plastics. The manufacturer did state it was ok on fiberglass.
FRP and HDPE are the same?
I think not. Dave from our chandlery was suggesting the use of an anti-bond product that said unsafe for use on plastics. The manufacturer did state it was ok on fiberglass.
I think not. Dave from our chandlery was suggesting the use of an anti-bond product that said unsafe for use on plastics. The manufacturer did state it was ok on fiberglass.
Blanket statements
When working within a particular discipline, such as fiberglass boats, blanket statements are made that are not always technically correct. Such as "unsafe for use on "plastic". When these statements are made they infer that the product is unsafe for 'most' plastics but OK on fiberglass. There are literally thousands or tens of thousands of different types of plastics. Spill some gasoline on most plastic tool handles and not much will happen. Spill some gasoline on a styrofoam cup and watch it disappear before your very eyes in literally seconds. FRP and HDPE are no way the same product but yet they are still plastics. All I was saying in my previous post is that fiberglass IS also a plastic. Tony B
When working within a particular discipline, such as fiberglass boats, blanket statements are made that are not always technically correct. Such as "unsafe for use on "plastic". When these statements are made they infer that the product is unsafe for 'most' plastics but OK on fiberglass. There are literally thousands or tens of thousands of different types of plastics. Spill some gasoline on most plastic tool handles and not much will happen. Spill some gasoline on a styrofoam cup and watch it disappear before your very eyes in literally seconds. FRP and HDPE are no way the same product but yet they are still plastics. All I was saying in my previous post is that fiberglass IS also a plastic. Tony B
Blanket statements
When working within a particular discipline, such as fiberglass boats, blanket statements are made that are not always technically correct. Such as "unsafe for use on "plastic". When these statements are made they infer that the product is unsafe for 'most' plastics but OK on fiberglass. There are literally thousands or tens of thousands of different types of plastics. Spill some gasoline on most plastic tool handles and not much will happen. Spill some gasoline on a styrofoam cup and watch it disappear before your very eyes in literally seconds. FRP and HDPE are no way the same product but yet they are still plastics. All I was saying in my previous post is that fiberglass IS also a plastic. Tony B
When working within a particular discipline, such as fiberglass boats, blanket statements are made that are not always technically correct. Such as "unsafe for use on "plastic". When these statements are made they infer that the product is unsafe for 'most' plastics but OK on fiberglass. There are literally thousands or tens of thousands of different types of plastics. Spill some gasoline on most plastic tool handles and not much will happen. Spill some gasoline on a styrofoam cup and watch it disappear before your very eyes in literally seconds. FRP and HDPE are no way the same product but yet they are still plastics. All I was saying in my previous post is that fiberglass IS also a plastic. Tony B
You are right on the money Tony.
I am a little concerned about Ross going on about polyester resin. Surely everyone knows by now that esters are a protected species, and nearly extinct.
I am a little concerned about Ross going on about polyester resin. Surely everyone knows by now that esters are a protected species, and nearly extinct.
You are right on the money Tony.
I am a little concerned about Ross going on about polyester resin. Surely everyone knows by now that esters are a protected species, and nearly extinct.
I am a little concerned about Ross going on about polyester resin. Surely everyone knows by now that esters are a protected species, and nearly extinct.
Sometimes...
Sometimes, me and Ross tend to get a little anal about things, but anyway, its nice to know there is a product that will remove: Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives Caulks & sealants Black rub marks Most graffiti and overspray Adhesive residue Liquid nails Adhesive film from duct and masking tape Wipe away excess spills of sealants and adhesives including 3M™ 5200 Polysulfide sealants Will not harm: gelcoat, clear coat, plexiGlass, awlGrip®, imron® Anyone here ever use this product? Does it work well? I have used various products to remove old adhesive glue from old tape and havent found any of these [products to work all that well. Maybe this stuff is good. Tony B
Sometimes, me and Ross tend to get a little anal about things, but anyway, its nice to know there is a product that will remove: Cured 3M™ 5200 and other polyurethane adhesives Caulks & sealants Black rub marks Most graffiti and overspray Adhesive residue Liquid nails Adhesive film from duct and masking tape Wipe away excess spills of sealants and adhesives including 3M™ 5200 Polysulfide sealants Will not harm: gelcoat, clear coat, plexiGlass, awlGrip®, imron® Anyone here ever use this product? Does it work well? I have used various products to remove old adhesive glue from old tape and havent found any of these [products to work all that well. Maybe this stuff is good. Tony B
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