Replace trim with Teak or Plas Teak?

[Tabi II]

Just purchased an 1978 O'Day 25 and need to replace the original teak handrails and toe rails. Looking for input from anyone on how PlasTeak is holding up and how long you have had it. Not much price difference than replacing these items with new teak. Would love to go with the no maintenance PlasTak, but only want to replace this trim once. Since the boat is 1978, we know the original teak can last 35 years with annual maintenance.

 

[Jackdaw]

PlasTeak is strong but is very flexible, too flexible, particularly when warm. I would not use it for handrails. A friend just did the cockpit slats on his First 285 and is not happy at all. Looks great however, for what every thats worth.

 

[Tabi II]

Great feedback! I misspoke earlier. We are replacing the toe rails and hatch runners. Not the handrails. Why is he unhappy with the cockpit slats?

 

[rpwillia]

Nice Steps

A couple of 310 guys replaced the non-skid appliques on their steps down into the cabin with PlasTeak - stuff looks awesome.

 

[capta]

I have no experience with the products you are asking about, but I used Starboard to replace my hatch boards with a door. It is marvelous stuff, but it does contract in the cold and expand in the heat, a bit. Not enough to screw up locking it, but it is noticeable. I mention this only because expansion and contraction would not be good on toe rails, etc. Perhaps you will want to check out the plastics you are considering for this problem.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I used Azek (100%) PVC lumber to replace all but my tiller and crib boards. Crib boards are next. I recessed all screws and made and installed Azek bungs but have seen where others leave the screwheads exposed and it looks fine and saves a bunch of work.
It's held up fine (2+ years in Central FL) and was a little over $3/board ft.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Tab,

I liked what Merl used. I had a sample of plas teak sent to me but didn't like the look.

I found something called Sensibuilt, also a pvc material decking & facia board.
I replaced all my deck wood (not handrails) on my cheap saw table & scroll saw.
Here's some pics of what I did.

Merl found a better product for the handrails which look a lot like what I used. The fascia board I used was only 3/4" thick, not good for handrails.
I still want to redo the handrails, thanks for the advice Merl.

 

[Jackdaw]

Great feedback! I misspoke earlier. We are replacing the toe rails and hatch runners. Not the handrails. Why is he unhappy with the cockpit slats?

The thin strips pulled out of the end fasteners and curled up. Happened on 2 of the pieces. Looks like crap.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Jack,

Your right pal, When I got my sample piece, I tried a few things to check the strength.
I had the same results with screws pulling out too easily.

I guess we live, and we learn....

CR

 

[Merlin Clark]

Looks great Capt Ron! The Azek I used is their deck boards and full 1" and I cut the top loop parts of the handrails 1".
I wouldn't try to lift the boat or tow it by these but otherwise plenty strong. I wouldn't trust this stuff to hold a screw (like from below into the trim piece) so everything is through bolted/screwed.

 

[rgranger]

I used Azek (100%) PVC lumber to replace all but my tiller and crib boards. Crib boards are next. I recessed all screws and made and installed Azek bungs but have seen where others leave the screwheads exposed and it looks fine and saves a bunch of work.
It's held up fine (2+ years in Central FL) and was a little over $3/board ft.

Man

That looks sharp.

Azek? Where can you find it?

 

[Merlin Clark]

Thanks Rob. Try here: http://www.azek.com/where-to-buy/

 

[Tabi II]

Thank everyone!

Great input! I found a local store that has both the Azek and Sensibuilt. Sounds like a good plan for replacing the original toe rails and broken hatch rails.

 

[rgranger]

Thanks Rob. Try here: http://www.azek.com/where-to-buy/

Thanks Merl... looks like there is a dealer 40 mi from my house.

The PO of my new-2-me boat, painted the teak handrails with white paint! (?):naughty:

I'm going to try and strip them but if that does not come out well, I think I'll do what you did.

I also want to add some grab rails inside the cabin. I think your rails would be perfect.

 

[rardiH36]

....
The PO of my new-2-me boat, painted the teak handrails with white paint! (?):naughty:

I'm guilty also of this misdemeanor. But don't dismiss this as an option :dance:. Pic below. Depends whether you think the teak look on plastic boats is worth the effort to maintain. For me, I didn't want to deal with re-doing the brightwork twice per year with marine varnish or other products none of which really continue to look acceptable for very long after each refinish project. And to do it right requires sanding and or stripping back down to bare wood each time. For me, also the 30+ year old teak pieces under my primary winches had been sanded too many times. They couldn't take the abuse for too many additional times. The Rustoleum Hammered finish I use stays looking almost new for about a year or longer. Then acceptable for another year. And when its time to finish again, its just a few strokes with some 150 sandpaper to shave down any peeling sections, mask and paint over. The picture was taken is a few months after my 3rd repaint in six years. The only other exterior teak I have left on my boat are two companionway hatch pieces and the framing. I paint with the Rustoleum Hammered as well.

As for the exterior grab rails on the cabin top. The teak ones (still in reasonable shape) are stowed in my home's crawl space in case some future owner wants to restore the boat to classic plastic condition. Stainless steel on the boat now. (per pic.)

.... I also want to add some grab rails inside the cabin. I think your rails would be perfect.

Interior teak grab rails are classy. I have not contemplated painting mine since even after 33 years they still look virtually new without any maintenance!

 

[Brian S]

Azek color

Our local lumberyard carries Azek, and had color samples. I grabbed maybe Cobre and Fawn colors, and The Admiral thought the Cobre was the right color. She also keyed in on the Cetol Natural Light color I used on my actual teak. The Natural Light looks orange in the can, and imparts a faint orange hue to the wood. So, yeah, Cobre is the color I liked.

From what I could tell at the lumber yard, you'll wind up buying a 1x12x10 Azek board as the smallest piece. Note that the Azek is a kinda very small cell foam material which has a 1/8" skin around it with the grain pattern, as do most engineered plastic deck boards. That means when you cut it, you'll expose the somewhat foamy interior. So, if you need 1" thick for a handrail, you're good, but if you need thinner, be aware you'll be carving off the facing skin when you thickness plane. I wanted it to make treads for my SS tubular swim ladder. I think it would be worth my while to measure and plan it out, and then have PlasTeak make up the three of them. Surely it can't be as expensive as a whole Azek board, of which I'll use maybe 2 feet...

Brian

Man

That looks sharp.

Azek? Where can you find it?

 

[Merlin Clark]

Brian,
Azek comes in normal deck board width too, 5.5 inches wide. I think the lengths were something like 16, 20 and 24.
I bought enough to replace all of my topside trim plus a few feet for other projects, with delivery, for about $180.

 

[rgranger]

I'm guilty also of this misdemeanor. But don't dismiss this as an option :dance:.

Okay yeah.... that looks nice. Stainless is classy .... Is that geriatric bathroom railing (like they sell at Lowes). It looks like the stuff you use for grab rails in an older person's shower. That stuff is strong and would make a brutish grab rail.

And the rustoleum teak looks good too... mine is not looking so good right now. Here is an older pic from the original ad.

I've already stripped the bottom and repainted as well as the boot strap. So the fresh paint up against the older kind of jumps out at ya... Maybe your hammered rustoleum with an earthy tone (like tan or brown) would be a quick fix and it might turn out that I like it...

 

[rardiH36]

.... It looks like the stuff you use for grab rails in an older person's shower....

rgrnger:

The SS handrails I've pictured are of real marine grade stuff. The tubing is thickwalled 1" O.D. 316 bought from the fabricating shop of an Alameda, CA yard and chandelry. The end pieces, also stainless, are these:

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Sea-Dog-Handrail-Fittings-Stainless-Steel-p-90891568.html

Almost six years on and with the help of Spotless Stainless on occasion, the appearance of the SS rails and end fittings is not that far off new. I chose the particular parts (end fittings + tubing) because I could do it myself without needing a custom tubing shop to fabricate. Main issue I had was that the base of the end fittings is flat whereas the section of my cabin top were the original teak handrails where located is curved. So I had to use my bench grinder to make the bases a bit concave to match. This ground off the passivated surface, so I have had some rust bleeding on to the gelcoat over time. But again Spotless Stainless removes without any real fuss.

 

[Tabi II]

FYI - Quote from PlasTeak for O'Day 25: Toe rails $25/each (we have 6) and $45/each hatch runner plus $50-$60 shipping. So we are looking at $300 for just these items. We decided to buy a piece of Azek locally and make the hatch runners and toe rails to try it out. We just bought the boat with the hatch runners and one toe rail are broken so will replace just these three items for now and see how we like it this summer before replacing all the toe rails. Plasteak also requires you send them the originals so they can match - more shipping costs.