repair help please

kenn · Dec 11, 2012

Pictures, please.

rgranger · Dec 12, 2012

rstone said:
1st is the hinged mast step is broken between the mast and the rear hinge pin. base plate is still in good condition.

I'm having a hard time visualizing that.... but you can buy tabernacles that should work for this boat. Or if you can find a MacGregor 22, or Catalina 22 that is being parted out that one should work for you.

rstone said:
2nd the centerboard cable is broken in 2 places. one close to winch and one where it exits the tube on centerboard side.
.....
how do i drop centerboard to attach new cable? it appears the cable runs thru the tube but how does it attach to the tube? i removed the old tube and cable and located the pivot point. there was a screw in the side of the pin that i removed on the starboard side and i tried to knock the pin out from the port side but it did not move. is there a screw on both sides or is there more to it than that?
local fabricator said its almost impossible to weld cast aluminum.
sorry for the random thoughts but i'm new to this and excited about the boat and getting ready to sail.
any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
thanks, Ray

It sounded like you were talking about two different things here... one is the pivot bolt and the other was the cable. If I'm correct... the cable should be replaced. You can get stainless steel cable at Tractor supply for a lot less than through a Marine store. Anything with the word Marine is going to cost you more ..:cussing:

Now onto the pivot pin. The bolt that the keel pivots on has a lot of pressure on it due to the weight of the keel. So just unscrewing it won't allow you to take it out. You will need to put a jack under the boat and through trial and error adjust the jack to just counter balance the weight of the keel, so the pin has not weight on it and can be taken out.

Merlin Clark · Dec 12, 2012

I have the slightly larger version of your boat, a Morgan 24.
The centerboard lifting arrangement on our boats was carried over from the inboard equipped 28, 30 and 34, all sharing the same vintage and overall design.
My CB lifting hardware was missing with exception to a rotted turning block in the front of the bilge and the stuffing tube that the rod is supposed to run through. In the pic below you'll see what I'm talking about. My CB is a hunk of steel encased in fiberglass and weighs about 60 lbs. The ballast is in the fixed portion of the keel.
I didn't care to restore what was, in my opinion, a system that was grossly over-engineered for my non-inboard boat so I followed a 22 owners mod and refitted mine with a double braid line running up thru a tube into the cockpit well and held by a cam cleat. I put a loop in this line with a block for the Mrs. but without it only requires 20-25 lbs of pull to haul the board up.
Also below is a simple drawing of what I did. I can explain my system if you care to hear about it.
The pin is held in by 2 bronze blocks that have 2 screws each going into a slab of something embedded into the hull. Pics attached.

Merlin Clark · Dec 12, 2012

Yeah Ray, a lot of guys keep a thread going during a resto. it's great watching the progress for the other forum-ites!

Chris Patterson · Dec 12, 2012

By all means don't delete the post. Sooner or later somebody else with the same problem will LOVE to see it.

And welcome to the forum. There's a lot of experience on here that sits around in the evenings, mornings, whatever, when the sailing or projecting is not an option, and like to steer a new sailor, or owner in the right direction.

Chuck Wagon · Dec 31, 2012

Mr. Rstone,

I have a similar situation as yours. I'm restoring a 1970 Morgan 24/25. She sits on stands in my back yard. After sanding the hull down, I decided to check the swing keel. Found pretty much the same thing you did. There's a wire cable running from the winch, through a series of blocks, to a stainless steel tube located inside a stuffing box, athwart over the top of the keel, to a wire swag attached to a screw on the aft end of the board.

Checking to make sure everything works, I let the board down, cranked it back up a little and BAM.. the wire broke near the end of the steel tube. After studying the tube, I totally agree with you. It appears the wire is running continuously though the tube. This only makes sense when you think about it. There must be epoxy or something stuffed inside the ends to attach the cable to the tube. The stop-nut must be threaded on the forward end. I did find a stainless steel tube on the internet recently, the site is attached below. Sure would like to hear how you are handling this.

As for your mast step, mine is also broken. I found a company on the internet that manufactures steps. Don't know the cost yet but plan on calling them soon. Good luck on your boat repairs.. hope everything turns out okay.

http://www.dandrinnovations.com/products.htm

Merlin Clark · Dec 31, 2012

Chuck,
You're right, the shaft going thru the stuffing box originally was a hollow tube with the wire rope potted. Here is a link for Bob Horan's Morgan 24 site in case you haven't seen it http://morgan24site.com.istemp.com/ and his page on the fix for the shaft http://morgan24site.com.istemp.com/Morgancbpage.htm and here's Miguel Checa's site on his 30, but a lot of info on other Morgans.
edit: forgot the link: http://checa.us/sch1.htm

I'd like to invite yourself and Ray to join the Morgan Yachts Facebook page and morganowners on yahoo groups. There are a few of us 24/25 guys and a couple 22s on the FB and we're building a good photo library.

Merlin Clark · Jan 3, 2013

So those reproductions are only half of what you need?
My boat has a heavy custom tabernacle and no base needed. I'll get pics and dims tomorrow and you can see if it would work for you.
It's welded aluminum so shouldn't be pricey.

Chris Patterson · Jan 3, 2013

Hey man, was your welders using high-frequency tig to weld that? It sure doesn't look like it. If they weren't, shop around one more time until you find a H.F. heli-arc.

rgranger · Jan 4, 2013

rstone said:
Hey guys,
Thanks for repling. The centerboard cable should be an easy fix. I put a torch to the SS tube and the epoxy melted out. I just need to get the boat off the trailer so I can get to the centerboard. I'll just run a new cable from the CB to the winch and epoxy the cable back in the tube. I hope.
I say I hope because the mast step is a bigger problem than I thought. Turns out it can't be welded. I had two very experienced cast iron and cast alum. welders try to fix it. They both said it appears to have too many impurities in it. It just burns up when you put heat to it. Here are some pics of end result. It looks like two kids tried to fix it but both these men have been welding alum. and cast for 30yrs. Is there any of these things out there anywhere? I'd like to stay with original design but open to suggestions. Ft. Worth machine shops want more than I paid for the boat to machine a new one.

Hey rstone

You want to go to this website

https://www.dwyermast.com/Default.asp

And click on the link that says "mast extrusions and fittings"

Then find the mast profile that most resembles yours and click on that. For instance the first mast I clicked on had a mast step that looked a lot like yours...

I found these guys through a suggestion on this list serve while searching for a spreader bracket. They even told me I could trace the base of the mast (put a piece of paper on the end of your mast and trace the profile) and mail it to them and they will figure out which piece is the correct one to order.

Good luck,

r

woodster · Jan 4, 2013

not cleaned correctly for welding.......

Chris Patterson said:
Hey man, was your welders using high-frequency tig to weld that? It sure doesn't look like it. If they weren't, shop around one more time until you find a H.F. heli-arc.

that looks like it wasn't cleaned before welding.......you must grind a bevel on the weld joints along with cleaning with a SS wire brush till it shines like new in order to get the impurities out of the base metal...other wise your tig tip (tungsten) will ball up with contaminated metal making it look like is was stick welded or even worse ox/act torch welded witch in either case is not acceptable........

regards

woody

Joe Blizzard · Jan 4, 2013

rstone said:
I'd like to stay with original design but open to suggestions.

Lots of boats use a tabernacle and pin arrangement in lieu of a hinged step.

https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp...are&familyID=27&familyName=Tabernacles+&+Pins

Merlin Clark · Jan 4, 2013

I have what Joe is talking about and it works great. Mine was made for a PO by a welding shop and has no mast base, just a bolt through the mast to pivot on. There is a verticle slot cut in the mast.

Chris Patterson · Jan 4, 2013

Yeah, I'm still with the welding thing. Truly, and I swear I'm not trying to be offensive, but the welding attempt on that would get a welder run off the job. Seriously. When I said tig, I meant HIGH FREQUENCY tig. Huge difference. I've welded cast aluminum wheels with H.F.

And like said, put that part in a glass beader,(sand-blast), to clean it of ALL impurities, and take it to a welder that REALLY knows what they're doing..

rgranger · Jan 5, 2013

The mast step that Joe Blizzard showed you in his link is the same one I have on my boat. It works great. For the price of a sand blast and weld, you could have a new one.

repair help please

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