The VC17 on my new boat has some raised and missing areas and it's believed that there's no barrier coat. I figured I'd might well strip it and start fresh. What's your preferred method of removing VC17 and why?
Removing VC17: Sanding vs Solvent
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
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Solvents only work well for small spots, other wise you use a lot of solvent and it smears around.
Abrasives are the answer, with sanding or soda blasting. A vacuum system is essential, the sanding dust is copper, don't want to be breathing that. When I removed VC-17 I used a random orbit sander with 36 grit paper, it was slow going, especially where the copper had built up some. In those areas the copper first burnished into what was essentially a thin sheet of copper metal and then it began to come off.
If I were to do this again, I would use an orbital sander, mesh sandpaper, and a dust collector.
Abrasives are the answer, with sanding or soda blasting. A vacuum system is essential, the sanding dust is copper, don't want to be breathing that. When I removed VC-17 I used a random orbit sander with 36 grit paper, it was slow going, especially where the copper had built up some. In those areas the copper first burnished into what was essentially a thin sheet of copper metal and then it began to come off.
If I were to do this again, I would use an orbital sander, mesh sandpaper, and a dust collector.
This is what I suspected. Thanks for confirming Dave! The mesh sandpaper really made that big of a difference?
Does anyone else find it ironic that we use copper pipes in our houses?
Does anyone else find it ironic that we use copper pipes in our houses?
I have sanded the rough and flaking spots, smoothed things out and then repainted with VC17. As long as you get the flaking stuff off, and get it as smooth as you want…wipe with some solvent and paint.
But if the goal is to remove it all, and apply barrier coat, that will be a big job with an orbital sander.
Tally Ho upon launch this spring after VC-17 application.
Greg
But if the goal is to remove it all, and apply barrier coat, that will be a big job with an orbital sander.
Tally Ho upon launch this spring after VC-17 application.
Greg
Mesh paper wasn't very common when I removed the VC17, so I resorted to plain old sandpaper. Last spring when I was prepping the bottom for more ablative paint, I used the mesh paper and regular paper, the mesh lasted longer, didn't clog, and the dust collector was more efficient with less dust in the air.
You're just trying to show off your shiny new prop again
I had actually considered just feathering the harsher edges but I'd rather do this right. A 94 C30 is worth the extra effort
Unless there is some adhesion problem with the bottom layer, it's hard to imagine removing all of the VC-17. Like many others in our fresh water sailing area I used it for a decade. Wipe clean and apply new coat every second year. It goes on very (very) thin. No real build up. We would give it general scuff up, and then roll on a new layer -- with added two or three coats from the waterline down a foot where the sun really promotes a slime layer. Same for rudder.
Great stuff as long as you wipe the slime off fairly often. Fast!
Great stuff as long as you wipe the slime off fairly often. Fast!
I can't imagine going to the trouble of trying to remove VC17 unless I had to in order to switch to a different paint. As other's mentioned, a quick wipe down with denatured alcohol and repaint with a thin coat every spring is all it takes. Done right, it should not build up. Can't go wrong with VC17 up on the Great Lakes. Pic below is our boat at the end of the season. We don't even bother to pressure wash it. We keep it moving though, and don't spend much time in one place.
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My main goal is to prevent potential blisters, get rid of the wrinkles and missing paint and verify that the wrinkles aren't caused by a more serious issue.
I've been using a VC17 on Lake Michigan for the past six years on my O'Day. A fresh coat is FAR better than a power wash and touch ups. Huge difference in performance and handling. My new C30 is what we're discussing here
I've been using a VC17 on Lake Michigan for the past six years on my O'Day. A fresh coat is FAR better than a power wash and touch ups. Huge difference in performance and handling. My new C30 is what we're discussing here
I'll grab some this week. IIRC, most of them are around the keel. No obvious signs of grounding. It'd be kinda difficult to do so in this area anyways
vc 17 is illegal in Canada now but grandfathered till ones supply is gone. We bought a case which should be good for 4 years but then have to consider what comes next, any ideas?
thks
Colin
thks
Colin