The VC17 on my new boat has some raised and missing areas and it's believed that there's no barrier coat. I figured I'd might well strip it and start fresh. What's your preferred method of removing VC17 and why?
Removing VC17: Sanding vs Solvent
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
- Start date
Solvents only work well for small spots, other wise you use a lot of solvent and it smears around.
Abrasives are the answer, with sanding or soda blasting. A vacuum system is essential, the sanding dust is copper, don't want to be breathing that. When I removed VC-17 I used a random orbit sander with 36 grit paper, it was slow going, especially where the copper had built up some. In those areas the copper first burnished into what was essentially a thin sheet of copper metal and then it began to come off.
If I were to do this again, I would use an orbital sander, mesh sandpaper, and a dust collector.
Abrasives are the answer, with sanding or soda blasting. A vacuum system is essential, the sanding dust is copper, don't want to be breathing that. When I removed VC-17 I used a random orbit sander with 36 grit paper, it was slow going, especially where the copper had built up some. In those areas the copper first burnished into what was essentially a thin sheet of copper metal and then it began to come off.
If I were to do this again, I would use an orbital sander, mesh sandpaper, and a dust collector.
This is what I suspected. Thanks for confirming Dave! The mesh sandpaper really made that big of a difference?
Does anyone else find it ironic that we use copper pipes in our houses?
Does anyone else find it ironic that we use copper pipes in our houses?
I have sanded the rough and flaking spots, smoothed things out and then repainted with VC17. As long as you get the flaking stuff off, and get it as smooth as you want…wipe with some solvent and paint.
But if the goal is to remove it all, and apply barrier coat, that will be a big job with an orbital sander.
Tally Ho upon launch this spring after VC-17 application.
Greg
But if the goal is to remove it all, and apply barrier coat, that will be a big job with an orbital sander.
Tally Ho upon launch this spring after VC-17 application.
Greg
Mesh paper wasn't very common when I removed the VC17, so I resorted to plain old sandpaper. Last spring when I was prepping the bottom for more ablative paint, I used the mesh paper and regular paper, the mesh lasted longer, didn't clog, and the dust collector was more efficient with less dust in the air.
You're just trying to show off your shiny new prop again
I had actually considered just feathering the harsher edges but I'd rather do this right. A 94 C30 is worth the extra effort
Unless there is some adhesion problem with the bottom layer, it's hard to imagine removing all of the VC-17. Like many others in our fresh water sailing area I used it for a decade. Wipe clean and apply new coat every second year. It goes on very (very) thin. No real build up. We would give it general scuff up, and then roll on a new layer -- with added two or three coats from the waterline down a foot where the sun really promotes a slime layer. Same for rudder.
Great stuff as long as you wipe the slime off fairly often. Fast!
Great stuff as long as you wipe the slime off fairly often. Fast!