i had two days with a hammer trying do loose that, i had to heat with a oxetilene torch to get it loose, was really hard
Removing the Propeller Shaft Flange - H41AC
- Thread starter dkinzer
- Start date
When I took up the task on my boat, upon checking the shaft under the stuffing box, it was pitted. Not a lot but enough to concern me. It is a 1 3/8" shaft. So likely I could have just pushed in stuffing and let it go.
I chose to change the shaft. This made the job 100% easier. I sliced through the shaft. Removed the shaft through the stern - slipped past the rudder. Took the pieces to a prop shaft and had a new shaft made. The shop fit and faced a new split coupler flange matched to my transmission. The shaft was slipped back through a new cutlass bearing. The flange and the prop slipped on like a Michael Jackson sparkling glove. While I was at it I installed a PYI PSS drip-less shaft seal.
Now I feel confident that the structure will be solid for another 5 years or so.
If your frustration level has been reached this is a reasonable solution for a big payoff. My cost all in $1300 or $216 per year for a solid 6 years of service.
May I be so lucky to spend another 6 years sailing my boat in the glorious waters of the Salish Sea.
I chose to change the shaft. This made the job 100% easier. I sliced through the shaft. Removed the shaft through the stern - slipped past the rudder. Took the pieces to a prop shaft and had a new shaft made. The shop fit and faced a new split coupler flange matched to my transmission. The shaft was slipped back through a new cutlass bearing. The flange and the prop slipped on like a Michael Jackson sparkling glove. While I was at it I installed a PYI PSS drip-less shaft seal.
Now I feel confident that the structure will be solid for another 5 years or so.
If your frustration level has been reached this is a reasonable solution for a big payoff. My cost all in $1300 or $216 per year for a solid 6 years of service.
May I be so lucky to spend another 6 years sailing my boat in the glorious waters of the Salish Sea.
But it does sound as if you did get it loose. Be sure you have 90 deg. prop shaft to flange alignment when its time to reinstall or final alignment becomes impossible.
I removed mine last year. At the time, I had owned the boat for 4 years and had no idea of the shaft seal age - turned out it was way overdue. I used penetrating oil and a gear puller like the first picture below. The bolt in the middle of the puller was a course thread and too long - I bought a shorter one but still the course thread didn't do much. The key was using fine threaded bolts to the flange. I used socket wrenches as dowels. Eventually I got some movement and the rest was easy. For reassembly I used some permatex aluminum anti-seize lubricant and new set screws. Next time I will invest in the right tool for the job algonquin flange puller. Time is money. BTW.. do not try inserting a dowel between the transmission flange and shaft flange and tightening down. If you break or warp the transmission flange, you will have major expense.
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