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I'll take a picture
I thought I had a picture of the seal area, but I didn't. I'll take one and post it. It looks a bit like the picture "Maine Sail" posted, but not quite as much weeping.
I'm going to have the boatyard drop the keel, but my timing is bad and I won't be able to get to it for a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
I thought I had a picture of the seal area, but I didn't. I'll take one and post it. It looks a bit like the picture "Maine Sail" posted, but not quite as much weeping.
I'm going to have the boatyard drop the keel, but my timing is bad and I won't be able to get to it for a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
Bob - shower drain to bilge
isn't so much a design flaw as a design error. Unless you can void the bilge of water completely which is usually impractical, you will always have baceria laden water fermenting in the bilge unless you do one of two things:
1. pipe the shower drain to a separate pan with an integral pump and float switch to segregate and discharge shower water overboard ( there are kits specifically built for this purpose), or
2. a preferable option is to simply run the shower drain to a filter/pump and then directly discharge overboard without collecting the water in a pan. This is the way Catalina designs their shower sumps now and has the benefit over #1 of not having residual water laying around in a pan (equivalent to a small bilge).
isn't so much a design flaw as a design error. Unless you can void the bilge of water completely which is usually impractical, you will always have baceria laden water fermenting in the bilge unless you do one of two things:
1. pipe the shower drain to a separate pan with an integral pump and float switch to segregate and discharge shower water overboard ( there are kits specifically built for this purpose), or
2. a preferable option is to simply run the shower drain to a filter/pump and then directly discharge overboard without collecting the water in a pan. This is the way Catalina designs their shower sumps now and has the benefit over #1 of not having residual water laying around in a pan (equivalent to a small bilge).
Weeping keel
He's a picture of the weeping keel that started this. A couple of years ago I saw no weeping when it was hauled out. The boat remains in the water year round, and the only time I've ever seen any water in the bilge is after a rain.
I'll have the boatyard drop the keel and do the re-bedding. I need to see what's happening down there since one of the bolts seems to be coming out of the lead.
Mike
He's a picture of the weeping keel that started this. A couple of years ago I saw no weeping when it was hauled out. The boat remains in the water year round, and the only time I've ever seen any water in the bilge is after a rain.
I'll have the boatyard drop the keel and do the re-bedding. I need to see what's happening down there since one of the bolts seems to be coming out of the lead.
Mike
Attachments
That's ...
Some pretty good water infiltration. Without dropping it you'll have no way of really knowing the condition of the bolts so you've made a good choice. Keep the pics coming..
Some pretty good water infiltration. Without dropping it you'll have no way of really knowing the condition of the bolts so you've made a good choice. Keep the pics coming..
My keel ballast is incapsulated in a full keel.
But I get streaks like that in new bottom paint from the water draining from the scuppers. That look to be quite a bit of water. There is no doubt about the scource. The "WHY" is the big question.
But I get streaks like that in new bottom paint from the water draining from the scuppers. That look to be quite a bit of water. There is no doubt about the scource. The "WHY" is the big question.
Here is a photo
Of a keel stub clearly laminated with wood. Note the fracturing and compression where the keel bolt is sinking into the keel stub.
Rotting Keel Stub Core
http://www.digitalmarinesurveys.com/July%2022,%202005%20097.jpg
Of a keel stub clearly laminated with wood. Note the fracturing and compression where the keel bolt is sinking into the keel stub.
Rotting Keel Stub Core
http://www.digitalmarinesurveys.com/July%2022,%202005%20097.jpg
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Sistering a new keel bolt
New keel bolts can be added, but the process could involve creating a window in the keel so a new keel bolt can be put in place. This site has a good description, but it is probably cost prohibitive to ship a keel to them for repair. I am sure that a local sailboat friendly yard can accomplish this for you. Practical Sailor has a DIY article on this too.
New keel bolts can be added, but the process could involve creating a window in the keel so a new keel bolt can be put in place. This site has a good description, but it is probably cost prohibitive to ship a keel to them for repair. I am sure that a local sailboat friendly yard can accomplish this for you. Practical Sailor has a DIY article on this too.
Bob - Interesting Post
I would not call it a design flaw. It is more like a non ideal condition. You don't want any water to drain into the bidge . That includes AC units, Ice Box, showers, and yes even keel / deck steped masts. You want to keep the bidle as dry as possible. I dry mine out every weekend when I leave the boat, if I can!
I would not call it a design flaw. It is more like a non ideal condition. You don't want any water to drain into the bidge . That includes AC units, Ice Box, showers, and yes even keel / deck steped masts. You want to keep the bidle as dry as possible. I dry mine out every weekend when I leave the boat, if I can!
I did this exact...
Quote: "New keel bolts can be added, but the process could involve creating a window in the keel so a new keel bolt can be put in place."
I did this exact repair on my Catalina 30 and can't with a good conscience recommend doing it. Sealing the "window" is very difficult. I only found out after doing the repair that Mars can actually replace the bolts by re-melting the sides of the keel, removing the old j bolts and installing new ones then re-pouring the keel around the bolt.
That keel is still holding on but the windows do leak and need a lot more attention than a proper repair with new bolts. If you use the window repair method be sure to wrap the keel with a few layers of cloth and epoxy resin and not just fairing compound It will do a lot to prevent water infiltration into the windows..
Quote: "New keel bolts can be added, but the process could involve creating a window in the keel so a new keel bolt can be put in place."
I did this exact repair on my Catalina 30 and can't with a good conscience recommend doing it. Sealing the "window" is very difficult. I only found out after doing the repair that Mars can actually replace the bolts by re-melting the sides of the keel, removing the old j bolts and installing new ones then re-pouring the keel around the bolt.
That keel is still holding on but the windows do leak and need a lot more attention than a proper repair with new bolts. If you use the window repair method be sure to wrap the keel with a few layers of cloth and epoxy resin and not just fairing compound It will do a lot to prevent water infiltration into the windows..
Vacation time
Thanks for all the input. Dropping the keel is what I thought I needed to do. I need to find out what's going on down there. The loose bolt is my biggest worry. The boat yard mentioned that cutting a window in the lead keel to install a new bolt was one way to deal with it.
I don't know if there was any plywood used in the construction of the the keel stub but I'll have it checked out. I've just repaired two a small sections of doghouse where water had gotten in through old fittings and damaged the core. This has been a very steep learning curve for me.
I leave for vacation next Monday, so the thing will be on hold till then. I want to be there when the keel comes down.
Mike
Thanks for all the input. Dropping the keel is what I thought I needed to do. I need to find out what's going on down there. The loose bolt is my biggest worry. The boat yard mentioned that cutting a window in the lead keel to install a new bolt was one way to deal with it.
I don't know if there was any plywood used in the construction of the the keel stub but I'll have it checked out. I've just repaired two a small sections of doghouse where water had gotten in through old fittings and damaged the core. This has been a very steep learning curve for me.
I leave for vacation next Monday, so the thing will be on hold till then. I want to be there when the keel comes down.
Mike
Epoxy?
There has got to be some epoxy out there that you could use to put a new keel bolt in from the top. Heck...they suspended HUGE concrete panels from the ceilings of tunnels in Boston...one fell and killed a poor woman driving through...but it must be feasible. That would avoid having a window, but without a "J" there would be a lot of strain on the epoxy.
I have added the link for catalinadirect for the kit they sell for the C27. It looks like they are relying on the threads alone for holding power. This might be okay, but I'd be tempted to use extra bolts with epoxy to boot if it were my boat. There must be some folks here who have used this kit. Perhaps they will chime in.
Any idea if there is plywood in the layup of your keel stub? From what I have read saturated plywood is a known contributor to what is known as the "catalina smile."
There has got to be some epoxy out there that you could use to put a new keel bolt in from the top. Heck...they suspended HUGE concrete panels from the ceilings of tunnels in Boston...one fell and killed a poor woman driving through...but it must be feasible. That would avoid having a window, but without a "J" there would be a lot of strain on the epoxy.
I have added the link for catalinadirect for the kit they sell for the C27. It looks like they are relying on the threads alone for holding power. This might be okay, but I'd be tempted to use extra bolts with epoxy to boot if it were my boat. There must be some folks here who have used this kit. Perhaps they will chime in.
Any idea if there is plywood in the layup of your keel stub? From what I have read saturated plywood is a known contributor to what is known as the "catalina smile."
epxoy
For and epoxy to work you would have to work like a dentist to grind out a pocket that would retain the epoxy as lead is not a real good grab on to item which is why they use the jhook in the first place
For and epoxy to work you would have to work like a dentist to grind out a pocket that would retain the epoxy as lead is not a real good grab on to item which is why they use the jhook in the first place
I have a hunter hunter 30 foot Cherubini 1981 that has a leak of water from the bow bolt in the keel. The surveyor missed it along with other things.. Do I need to fix this. Any suggestions? A drip every 5 seconds and rust signs. Last time I dove the boat i saw a hair line crack on the starboard side ... January I was planning to do a bottom job.. Any suggestions on what to look for to see if I need to rebed the keel?
I have a hunter hunter 30 foot Cherubini 1981 that has a leak of water from the bow bolt in the keel. The surveyor missed it along with other things.. Do I need to fix this. Any suggestions? A drip every 5 seconds and rust signs. Last time I dove the boat i saw a hair line crack on the starboard side ... I have not hit anything but I only have had the boat since may.
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