Removing strut to change cutlass bearing?

[Tally Ho]

So you are giving up on removing the bearing, and would replace the strut and the new bearing?

Could you soak the strut/ bearing in CLR or maybe vinegar to try and dissolve whatever is holding the bearing in the strut? I soaked my prop in vinegar to remove some sort of hard growth (I am in fresh water) that I could not get off with a wire cup brush on a drill. Maybe vinegar would dissolve whatever is holding it in place. I am not sure if PB Blaster or similar product would help. Or lubrication....I think I sprayed some WD-40 on the "seam" of the bearing and strut in preparation of trying to press out the bearing

I assume you were able to get the set screws out ok.

MaineSail has commented about thin wall bearings being difficult to press out because the metal part of the bearing is crushed by the pressing action. I don't recall what he suggests if the Strut Pro or similar tool does not work.

So,,what fails when trying to press the bearing out? My Brother-in-law, who made my tool suggested I use special washers (don't recall what they were called) on the nuts on my tool to overcome the friction as I was tightening the bolts to press out the bearing. I did not need to do that as the bearing came out easily.

I guess if you absolutely can't get the bearing pressed out, you don't really have a choice but to replace the strut.

Greg

 

[JACKHEAPE]

Yes, soaked with PB blaster and set screws came out ok. Didn't try vinegar but I don't think that marine growth is an issue. The exterior wall of the bearing is actually crumpling. Where before you could easily turn the prop shaft the bearing is now compressed and deformed to the point that one cannot turn the prop shat (by hand anyway). Some of the bearing casing has actually extruded into one of the set screw openings.

 

[Tally Ho]

I guess one other option to save the cost of the new strut, is to remove the strut, slide it off the shaft, and then carefully hacksaw the bearing ( blade only) and separate it out of the strut. I have seen some photos or videos of how to do it on the forum. Saves the cost of the strut. I have not done it as I would remove the strut as a last resort.

I hope you can get it figured out and fixed....sailing season (at least on the Great Lakes) is precious time.

Greg

 

[heritage]

Before Strut Tool type devices became available at boat yards, removing the prop shaft and working the bearing out was quite common. The hacksaw method makes the job pretty easy. Not that I would ever go back to that method if a strut tool is available.
I hauled my Hunter 27 this spring to install a dripless seal and found that the shaft log needed replacing. So off comes the coupler and strut. Seemed easier than dropping the rudder. No problems getting the strut off. Rebedded with 5200. Here is a pic of the shaft log. Looks much the same as the one that Black Pearl posted. So I'm thinking that corrosion on the bottom side of bronze shaft logs of this era is not uncommon. Easy to check on your boat (when out of the water) by loosening the stuffing box friction nut and two hose clamps and pulling the hose

off the log. If you see any pink metal try taping that area and see if it chips off.
.

 

[JACKHEAPE]

After looking at things further today I am going to pull the shaft first. I don't want to go through all that hassle of aligning the shaft again unless I have to. Now to get the coupling off and drop the rudder!

 

[Tally Ho]

Let us know how getting the coupler off. I dread trying to pull my shaft as I doubt it has been off since 1988 when the boat was built.

Greg

 

[LeGe]

I did end up pulling my strut. It was bedded with 5200. That stuff should be banned. Nothing in the world is that permanent that it needs to be stuck that strongly...:

Tried many ways but in the end I heated the strut with a blowtorch (I don't own a heat gun - that would be better I think) end pried it off with a short crowbar. Came of totally cleanly and the spacers stayed in their spots, still embedded in the 5200.

It was a 5 minute job to replace the cutlass bearing (just crumpled it up with a screwdriver between the wall of the bearing and the strut barrel and pull it out with needle nose pliers) and then I bedded it with 4200 and the same spacers. Worked like a charm and I will definitely do it the same way again.

Using a new strut means you will have to line it up again. With the new cutlass in, it should be nice and snug on the shaft taking care of the alignment in 2 planes while needing alignment in the vertical plane only. I measured the distance between 2 fixed points on the hull to the middle top of the aft end of the strut "barrel" (the part that takes the cutlass bearing) and use these measurements as well as the direct vertical distance between the barrel and the underside of the hull to get it pretty much in the exact same place it was before.

I've put about 350 miles of coastal sailing on our vessel so far this season with about a quarter of that with the engine running and have not had any issues.

Hope this helps.

 

[JACKHEAPE]

After struggling to try and disconnect the coupling, I ended up cutting the shaft. It was bronze, only 2 cuts, and it took about 5 minutes to get it out! The cutlass bearing took another 5 minutes. If I had known how easy it was, I would have done it that way to begin with. Replacement stainless steel shaft with a split coupling is only $362.

 

[gahOhio H33.5]

LeGe,
I am wondering how you made out with changing your cutlass bearing. I live in Cleveland and have a 1993 H33.5. I have used two different bearing removal tools and cannot get it to "Pop". The walls of the bearing are very thin and crumbling under the pressure of the removal tool. I have treated it with Kroil penetrating oil and used heat on the strut itself. I am contemplating removing the shaft, or the strut itself. Any suggestions after your experience?
GH

 

[LeGe]

Remove your strut. Its not difficult. See my previous posting. Next time I replace my cutlass I will do it exactly the same way. Good luck!