Removing shaft coupling from tranny

[capta]

Slide the shaft aft out of your way and remove the coupling on the shaft first. This will give you experience before you begin on the trany coupling. You must remove the two bolts with the wire, first, but that should be the most difficult part as you appear to have a bronze shaft and the coupling won't corrode to the bronze. You are going to have to be very careful NOT to beat on the coupling attached to the trany at all. Nor can you pry against the trany or you will most likely destroy the rear main oil seal on the trany. Heat, time, a good puller and PB Blaster are your friends in this case. Since you cannot give the puller a good whack when the puller is under tension, use heat. Everything should just spring apart. As difficult as it may be to believe, with the right tools, this probably won't be nearly as difficult as you are imagining.

 

[kito]

Capta, too late but thanks. I spent 2 days this weekend trying to get the flanges apart and won. I spent the next 2 days trying to get the shaft off the prop coupler and lost. Looking for a ss prop shaft and coupler now for a H30. Like I said earlier.....that shaft was not leaving the coupler....way too much corrosion. I believe this boat had some problems as far as water infiltration based on the jeri rigged shaft log. There is water lines inside that would have covered the coupling and the motor mounts. I think the shaft log was bad and sunk it at his slip......maybe 5 foot depth (shoal draft). Yanmar is fine and runs great. I am beginning to figure out the history of this boat. No problem....this is going to be one sweet sailboat.

 

[BobM]

Usually getting the shaft out of the coupling is the hard part. I'd give it another bath in PB blaster and then hit it with a rubber mallett lightly to break it free. If that is a no go heat or cold. Although I had little luck,with those cryogenic sprays myself and would just use ice.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Chris,

your quote, "I MUST be pathologically insane!" ,would probably be backed up by any Shrink. But, don't feel that you are alone, as all boatowners suffer from the same affliction as long as our love of boating exist. Scientists are at a loss for how this disease is transmitted but, are searching for a cure. I'm afraid at the present time, there is NO SUCH CURE.

A bigger boat now, I fear that your condition has only worsened & you may be beyond treatment. But fear not, I like many of my compadres, suffer from this disease also!

Kito, the GOOD news was getting the flanges apart. When putting it all back together, remember to use Never-Seize on the flange & shaft male/female keyways for future considerations. You did mention changing out a motor mount. I hope you meant not only one but two. I wouldn't changeout only one but also, the opposite side mount. It's like changing out only one tire, sure the car will drive, but just not the same.

CR

 

[kito]

CR, I will be replacing all 4 mounts. As mentioned earlier, it looks like the mounts may have been in water. I know half of the coupling was since the flange had paint on only one side. Good thing is it didn't get into the engine. Anyone know a good source for SS prop shafts? I know the store here has a coupling/shaft combo listed for an H27...but not for a H30. I guess I will call and see if they have something that will work.

 

[Chris Patterson]

The Prop Shop here in Wilmington does excellent work, Kito. The coupler needs to be faced on the shaft anyway.


(Oh yeah, I didn't mean to imply that boat is mine, I'm just doing the fit out on it. And at least once a month I have to talk woman out of buying something like this. I keep telling her that these boats sail like pigs)..

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kito,

Follow what Chris advised. As for shaft length, Take the cut shaft & flange to the prop/shaft place & have them get you a replacement. This should be the easy part.

Don't forget to take the flange to them for measuring purposes. They should be able to dislodge the shaft piece from the flange, so you may not have to replace it with a new one.

CR

 

[kito]

The Prop Shop here in Wilmington does excellent work, Kito. The coupler needs to be faced on the shaft anyway.


(Oh yeah, I didn't mean to imply that boat is mine, I'm just doing the fit out on it. And at least once a month I have to talk woman out of buying something like this. I keep telling her that these boats sail like pigs)..

Thanks Chris, I sent the Prop Shop a quote request to get a ballpark number.
CR, I am going with a new coupling since it is corroded so bad. I will probably clean it up, drill out the grub screw threads and tap to the next size and keep for a spare. The shaft had to be cut in 3 pieces, was getting jammed in the strut...which reminds me, I need to remove the strut, make new backing plates and rebed it. It looked like I racked it to starboard trying to get the shaft out.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Kito,

Way to proceed pal.

The term I use for the BIG pain in the but jobs is, simply, "My Boat Project".

CR

 

[jibes138]

Kito, a great shop for a shaft and coupling facing job is "Bircher Machine Shop" in Morehead City, NC. Jim does outstanding work and is the go to place by all the boat yards around here for shaft work.
http://bircherinc.com/machine_shop

 

[kito]

Well, I got a response from our store here and said they have a 1" x 50" long ss shaft with coupling (faced off). Can someone with a Hunter 30 and ysm12 tell me if a 50" long shaft will work? I will measure my cut pieces when I get home from work. I believe I read that the original length is around 49". What would the extra 1" do to me? Plenty space between the end of shaft and skeg with my old one.

 

[woodster]

Well, I got a response from our store here and said they have a 1" x 50" long ss shaft with coupling (faced off). Can someone with a Hunter 30 and ysm12 tell me if a 50" long shaft will work? I will measure my cut pieces when I get home from work. I believe I read that the original length is around 49". What would the extra 1" do to me? Plenty space between the end of shaft and skeg with my old one.

it would depend on how much shaft overhang is on the prop side of the strut...i think 1.5 inches is nominal but they can cut the shaft to 49 if you tell them before hand the length you want

 

[kito]

it would depend on how much shaft overhang is on the prop side of the strut...i think 1.5 inches is nominal but they can cut the shaft to 49 if you tell them before hand the length you want

I sent a reply to see if the vendor can cut 1" off and extend the coupler keyway the extra inch. We'll see what he says. Since I am rebedding the strut anyway, I guess I could use the 50" and move the strut aft an inch....if the vee will still match up.

 

[kito]

I went ahead and ordered the shaft/coupler from the store here. The 50" will be cut down to 49" and the coupler faced off to the shaft. An expense I wasn't planning on but at least I will have all new. After inspecting my old bronze shaft, it had extensive galling in the stuffing box flax area anyway.

 

[BobM]

Be sure to replace your stuffing box hose too and to use the correct hose.