Removing Excess Caulking From Fiberglass
- Thread starter FlimFlamII
- Start date
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,809
This is tricky. You need to keep any sharp tool flat so as not to gouge the Gel Coat. Work slowly. You may be able to use a plastic paint scraper. When you are down to a light film and little bits you may be able to use something like Acetone. 3 M has a "Caulk Remover". Not sure what it is. Did you put the caulk on the seat? Does the container have a suggested product to remove it?
SIS 440 Teak Caulking. They had no instructions for removal...
I going to try and scrap off what I can with single edged razor blade, ever so carefully, and then try my luck using a 3M product. It's a wheel you mount on a drill that's used to remove the old striping tape.
If you use a caulk remover it will wick along all the edges and probably into the teak and weaken the bond on the whole project. The stuff is designed to wick. Don't do it.
Slow work with mechanical means. And mask next time. Also, the masking tape needs to come off as soon as you are finished, before the caulk skins over. This is different from painting.
Slow work with mechanical means. And mask next time. Also, the masking tape needs to come off as soon as you are finished, before the caulk skins over. This is different from painting.
I used a plastic caulk remover that is shaped like a broad fish hook from Ace Hardware (couldn't find at the large box stores). the point cuts the caulk without harming the deck surface. Worked well when all the others didn't, especially on butyl. Not sure if it will work on your caulk if it is too tough to cut through without a sharp blade.
This is the 3M caulk remover. http://amzn.to/2bZ1G8I
It works well, let it sit on the caulk for a while then use a plastic scraper. It may take several applications.
Take a sharp razor knife and cut the caulk where you want it to end. This will help prevent pulling the caulk away from the teak. Use a straightedge to get a clean cut. Once you make the cut it may be possible to gently peel the old caulk away from the gelcoat. Pull parallel to the deck, not straight up.
It works well, let it sit on the caulk for a while then use a plastic scraper. It may take several applications.
Take a sharp razor knife and cut the caulk where you want it to end. This will help prevent pulling the caulk away from the teak. Use a straightedge to get a clean cut. Once you make the cut it may be possible to gently peel the old caulk away from the gelcoat. Pull parallel to the deck, not straight up.
Hopefully there won't be a next time... I did mask the other bench but did not remove the tape prior to the caulk setting up so still suffer from the same issue on that side but not as bad. Thanks,
If you used blue tape, the second side should be easier. Cut the caulk with a razor knife and straightedge and then peal the tape back parallel to the deck.
What about thinwaters comment about the stuff wicking into the caulking I don't want to remove?
thanks,
thanks,
The stuff is pretty thick, about the thickness of hand lotion. I suppose it is possible, but I've not had that experience. If you slice the caulking first and work from the outside towards the teak, you can mitigate any bleeding problems.
(Edit) The caulk remover loosens the bond, it doesn't really dissolve the caulk.
Just tried the 3M hull stripe removal wheel and it worked okay. It left some discoloration due to the heat so I went back over the are with a StarBrite scuff eraser pad. Turns out the pad not only cleaned up the discoloration it also removes the excess caulking with no marks on the gelcoat. YEAH!
If you dare use a steel tool I find a "5 in 1" tool to be incredibly versatile. It is flat on one side and beveled on the other, plus it has a hooked tip so you can dig stuff out of grooves and sharp corners. Unlike a chisel it is a little flexible so less apt to dig into the surface. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-42...F8&qid=1472411984&sr=8-1&keywords=5-in-1+tool
