Removing and reinstalling furler with mast up

PEBI · Monday at 1:06 AM

I haven't run into this problem myself. But I read up on it and from what I uncovered it seems you should use something like Dyneema rope. Because normal rope haylards will stretch or snap and cause the mast to become volnerable to structural integrity volnerabilities.

So if I were you. No I would not use rope halyards.

kappykaplan · Monday at 1:44 AM

Project_Mayhem said:
I'm wondering about the feasibility of using a couple of halyards for a month or two in place of the forestay.

My boat spent an entire winter on the hard with halyards in place of the forestay.

garymalmgren · Monday at 2:02 AM

RE: I'm wondering about the feasibility of using a couple of halyards for a month or two in place of the forestay.

Two halyards to be sure to be sure.
No problem

jssailem · Monday at 2:18 AM

I used two 10mm sta-set halyards (5100 lb strength) to hold my 48ft mast in place during a swap out of my Pro-Furl furler for the installation of my new Harken furler. Took about 3 weeks. No issues.

Boat on the hard in November. The forestay was terminated at the bottom with Hayn Hi-Mod fitting and tang. The top used a swage fitting. If I recall correctly the extrusion was slipped off the swage fitting.

sailme88 · Monday at 3:42 AM

So, deck stepped? If keel stepped, the conversation is moot...

Joe · Monday at 7:36 AM

Read the installation instructions before you start making any plans. 20 years ago, when I shopped for furlers, Harken required cutting the forestay, but most if the other makes will allow the use of the existing wire. My Profurl unit did not require cutting the forestay, the drum position above deck is determined by the length of the "tangs" that are anchored to the stemhead shackle. The tangs were part of the order and you could request whatever length you wanted. It is common, especially on cruising oriented boats, for the sail to be set so the foot can more easily clear the lifelines, give the crew a better view and to avoid channeling green water aft along the side deck.
Regarding your halyard/stay situation.. no problem. Remember there are at least 3 other guy wires supporting the mast(more depending on the rig)... and there's no need to put excessive tension on them since there won't be any sail pressure for them to counter. I use my halyards to support the mast when I change out the rigging, one wire at a time, just move the halyards to the repair side. save two for your bosun's chair. Easy Peasy.

Stu Jackson · Monday at 8:01 AM

Good point. It also helps to clear your anchor shank when it's higher.

Joe said:
The tangs were part of the order and you could request whatever length you wanted. It is common, especially on cruising oriented boats, for the sail to be set so the foot can more easily clear the lifelines, give the crew a better view and to avoid channeling green water aft along the side deck.

BigEasy · Monday at 10:22 AM

No problem; as others have mentioned, just use two halyards (3/8”) to retain forward aspect of mast & you’re good to go. Did this years ago when I had to repair my Hood furler. Admittedly I was a bit nervous when I was disconnecting forestay; however, a dock neighbor who had more boat knowledge than I had provided guidance. It was really nothing.

jssailem · Monday at 4:29 PM

My furler was a Profurl from the 70’s. Yes the swage fitting slipped through the extrusion. I kind of remember tge Harken extrusion required removal of the Hayn HiMod fitting to pass through the extrusions. This meant I needed to replace the core cone. Not an issue. It all worked fairly smoothly.

Joe · Tuesday at 3:59 PM

Project_Mayhem said:
I have a Hood furler that needs to be repaired. I have a Norseman style fitting at the bottom of my forestay. I assume the furler will not be able to slide past the fitting? I'm guessing that I will have to cut the forestay a bit during reinstallation to get a clean end? If it has to be shortened, I'm wondering about the feasibility of using a couple of halyards for a month or two in place of the forestay. I've done this short term without issues. I've also rebuilt a Hood furler in the past but can't remember the specifics

Norseman fittings are mechanical, not swaged. Examine this diagram, then search youtube for vids on Norseman installation or replacement.

garymalmgren · Tuesday at 11:46 PM

Norseman fittings can be reused if threads are good and no cracks. Check carefully.
But you need to cut off about 3 inches of wire, because the wire cannot/should not be wedged in the same spot.
RE: the above diagram. Good luck tightening with a bar and spanner.
I had to use a vice and a LOT of muscle.

Joe · Wednesday at 7:11 AM

garymalmgren said:
Norseman fittings can be reused if threads are good and no cracks. Check carefully.
But you need to cut off about 3 inches of wire, because the wire cannot/should not be wedged in the same spot.
RE: the above diagram. Good luck tightening with a bar and spanner.
I had to use a vice and a LOT of muscle.

heh, heh, xlnt point about bar and spanner tools. Good comment about trimming wire. Turnbuckle adjustment or adding longer stud could help compensate for that.

JBP-PA · Wednesday at 7:54 AM

Sta-lok, another popular fitting, makes an extra long fitting just so that you can cut off 3 inches without replacing the wire. That said, the fitting is probably five times more expensive than the wire, but it might save some work. I don't see a comparable Norseman.

Sta-Lok Long Stud - Supplied with split pin - Sta Lok

Manufactured from high specification 316 stainless steel. Enables replacement of swages without having to replace the wire rope.

www.stalok.com

Barnacle Bill · Wednesday at 12:27 PM

Norsman style terminals are designed to be disassembled, which is the beauty of them in comparison to a swaged-on terminal. But, I think most furlers can be removed over the turnbuckle stud without having to cut the stay. But, that is not your problem. One or two halyard is good to support your mast temporarily while the new furler is built. Why does it take so long (a month or two?). You buy the new furler and have it ready to build. Go up the mast, take the needed pin to pin measurement and write it down. Tie a halyard to the top of the furler and unpin the top and lower it carefully to the deck with the halyard (someone should be at the bottom end to guide it down). If you are using the same forestay, then you have that covered. If you buy a Furlex you get a new forestay in the kit. Anyway, you build the new furler and when done, run it back up to the top of the mast and connect both ends. Should be a day project. Two months is crazy.

Tally Ho · Wednesday at 1:49 PM

I motored Tally Ho home from about 10 miles out on Lake Michigan when my forestay chain plate broke. I had 1 halyard available and I wrapped the anchor chain around the furler drum to help hold the whole rig from falling backwards. You should certainly be able to keep the mast in place with a halyard or 2 tied off up front and tightened on a winch.

Good luck on the project. I have new rigging being made for Tally Ho (I went swaged on both ends) and I have ordered a new Harkin MKIV Unit1. The rigger is going to assemble it in his shop (get all of the foil sections cut to length, etc), but then I will install the rigging when I get back for the summer, including re-assembling the furler at the marina. The ONLY thing I am nervous about is the furler. But with a few helpers, I am sure I can get it on the mast, get the mast stepped, and all the rigging secured.

New sheaves for the mast head, new VHF cable, new antenna, new anchor light, new foredeck/steaming light and some mast exit plates should finish off the project. Oh…and some new halyards since my old CDI furler didn’t use a rope halyard.. need to add a new one.

I will have about $5 boat bucks (maybe a bit more) to get fresh rigging on Tally Ho.

Greg

Removing and reinstalling furler with mast up

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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