Recently bought C27 with a 1999, long shaft, Yamaha 9.9hp (remote controlled throttle and shifting) mounted on a Fulton MB 1820, 130 lb capacity adjustable motor mount. The control cables pass through a 3-4" round opening in transom and there's a 3-4" plastic pipe extension extending forward about 3". The cables are very stiff and so they limit the amount of vertical adjustment that be made to raise or lower the motor on the Fulton motor mount. The cables also limit my ability to tilt the motor out of the water. I am not sure what the best solution is. The options I see: 1) enlarge the transom opening, maybe in an oblong vertical slot, 2) mount the motor on the transom in a fixed position and use the tilt to get the motor out of the water (I know that most transom mounted motors can't be tilted out of the water because the C27's aft compartment cover is in the way), 3) Just live with the 2 middle motor mount positions that are now possible. The old engine has been found to be unreliable and I'm buying a new hi-thrust Yamaha 9.9 with an extra long shaft and power tilt. I sail where it can get pretty choopy and what to have the option of getting the prop as deep as possible. Any advise would be appreciated.
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johnson sailmaster
Tim's picture of the outboard is worth a thousand words. The C27 outboard model, with the big hole, was designed for that style motor, I think evinrude made a similar model. Anyway, note the low profile power head cowling compared to the Japanese motors and the later model american designs. BTW if anyone is intested I have a Johnson Sailmaster 15 HP, electric start, no tiller. It needs work, but you can have it if you want it. I also have the aftermarket repair manual to tell you how to fix it. All free... come get it.
Tim's picture of the outboard is worth a thousand words. The C27 outboard model, with the big hole, was designed for that style motor, I think evinrude made a similar model. Anyway, note the low profile power head cowling compared to the Japanese motors and the later model american designs. BTW if anyone is intested I have a Johnson Sailmaster 15 HP, electric start, no tiller. It needs work, but you can have it if you want it. I also have the aftermarket repair manual to tell you how to fix it. All free... come get it.
One more question
Tim, Thanks for the magnified view. That helps me see it more clearly. One more question; Do you remember about how much longer the cables needed to be to make the loops. I'll need new longer cables to make the loops. I plan to take some measurements before ordering the cables. I am thinking I will try to estimate the loop length with some kind of stiff wire. Thanks again for the input. This C27 forum is a great thing. Can't wait for the spring to get sailing again.
Tim, Thanks for the magnified view. That helps me see it more clearly. One more question; Do you remember about how much longer the cables needed to be to make the loops. I'll need new longer cables to make the loops. I plan to take some measurements before ordering the cables. I am thinking I will try to estimate the loop length with some kind of stiff wire. Thanks again for the input. This C27 forum is a great thing. Can't wait for the spring to get sailing again.
Really Have No Reference for "Longer"
Loko40 - Sorry - I've really got no reference to judge "how much longer" - the cables were some sort of standard length - as I know that I replaced them once during the years that I owned the boat (1986-2003). I'd guess from memory that they were about 7 or 8 feet - but I really have no idea. I bet that you could get a close approximation using a steel tape measure to make a large loop at the transom - and then add the straight run through the compartments to your remote/control location. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
Loko40 - Sorry - I've really got no reference to judge "how much longer" - the cables were some sort of standard length - as I know that I replaced them once during the years that I owned the boat (1986-2003). I'd guess from memory that they were about 7 or 8 feet - but I really have no idea. I bet that you could get a close approximation using a steel tape measure to make a large loop at the transom - and then add the straight run through the compartments to your remote/control location. Good Luck! Tim Brogan April IV C350 #68 Seattle
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