Rejuvinating a Venture 21

[Looking_Up]

Hi I have a venture 21 that is undergoing rejuvination i have stripped all of the hardware off of the boat and am about to start sanding the interior for paint. SUGEGSTIONS WELCOME
Next i plan on doing the outside it has been painted with paint on top and i think ablative on the bottom it is chalky and i plan on taking it off this will remain a trailer boat and will spend a week or two a year on the salt and no more it will primarily be a freshwater boat so i need suggestions hear
if the paint on bottom is an ablative will there be good gel coat underneith or should i use pettite vivid any way
There was a ton of unnessessary hardware on deck and no backing inside so some repairs are in my future it was set up to sail and never leave your seat i am not sure all of this hardware is nessasary do all of the halyards have to run back to the cockpit, do i really need toping lift if i am just going to be camper sailing
for backing what thickness of stainless plate should i use will 1/8 suffice for any or do i need more say on the backstay mounts or the lifeline post
any help would be appreatiated
and i am very familiar with sailboat racing in the r/c categorie so i understand most sailing terms and hardware and partialy understand advanced tuning of the rig
i almost forgot my backstay has a split with a triangular ring and two pullys, I understand where they attach to the boat but dont understand if it is all there or how to use it i am sure that my boat was being raced but this is a peice of hardware i am not familliar with

 

[KD3PC]

Hopefully you have not started sanding the interior, as IIRC (it has been since the early 70's when I had mine) it is raw glass. It will be next to impossible to sand it to the point of being smooth enough for paint. You may want to look at some epoxy or truck bed coating to do that...

I would use starboard as backing plates, and just epoxy it to the underside where needed. If you need some metal, then the 1/8th inch should be fine for the loads the rigging will present.

I would go basic for the rigging, and leave the topping lift and fancy stuff to the bigger boats.

The rest sounds like a good plan to have a nice sailing boat. Just respect it's limitations and enjoy the hum when you get up to speed

 

[Looking_Up]

My interior has something over the fiberglas in most places it almost feels like fabric that is deteriorating i was just going to knock it of and then paint or give it some neet then paint

 

[Fly_H23]

I had a 72' model and was afraid to do any interior sanding in case it has LEAD paint. Please use caution!

 

[rgranger]

Here are some pics of the first boat I restored (a Mac 21). Maybe give you some ideas. I'm on my seventh now so be careful... fixing old boats can be addictive (and expensive)

 

[Looking_Up]

I am going to order parts at the begining of next week
I want to go with west systems epoxy and filler for the deck repair and neat for the inside then paint ( what paint should i use i would like white) What topside paint should i use

 

[rgranger]

I am going to order parts at the begining of next week
I want to go with west systems epoxy and filler for the deck repair and neat for the inside then paint ( what paint should i use i would like white) What topside paint should i use

Rustoleum sells a Marine grade paint... but honestly, I've had very good luck with regular (in the can not spray) rustoleum. I've used both and both are very good paint. The boat above was regular rustoleum. The color was called "Sail Blue". Use the roll and tip method to get a smooth finish and make sure you use the low nap roller (foam) designed for a smooth finish. The tipping has to be done within a few minutes of rolling so either have a partner or roll a small section and then tip. If you need to.... do a google search on Roll and Tip painting and you will get several uTube links.

r

 

[Looking_Up]

Rustoleum for inside and top?

 

[rgranger]

Rustoleum for inside and top?

Def top and sides.... I think Rustoleum makes a bottom paint but I've never used it so I can't (won't) vouch for it.....for the inside, I used an oil based paint that I got from James T Davis that was formulated for bathrooms. It has an anti-mildew additive. I had fantastic results with that. When I sold my boat three years later... there was no mildew and more importantly no mildew smell in my boat...I also know that Home Depot has the anti-mildew chemical as an additive you can add to many different paints... that would open up more color options. I have read that a high quality exterior grade latex will work on the insides. Many people have done that... I'd still recommend the anti-mildew additive.

 

[rgranger]

The anti-skid you see in my pics I got at Lowes and the stern light is actually a licence plate light I got at Auto-Zone.

 

[rgranger]

And the Lowes by my lake has the marine grade rustoleum and they also sell anti-skid additives.

 

[Looking_Up]

This is great info as soon as i start sanding the ablative off i will know if i have to do bottom paint an being that i live in the desert i hope lowes has that stuff

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

I agree with everything said so far, except the topping lift. It's pretty easy to rig(just a medium flex line to the end of the boom) and you'll be glad you have it the first time you lower the sail!
RRanger, your boat looks a whole lot like mine!

 

[centerline]

I would use starboard as backing plates, and just epoxy it to the underside where needed. If you need some metal, then the 1/8th inch should be fine for the loads the rigging will present.

I would go basic for the rigging, and leave the topping lift and fancy stuff to the bigger boats.

The rest sounds like a good plan to have a nice sailing boat. Just respect it's limitations and enjoy the hum when you get up to speed

the starboard would be better than plywood because it wont rot, but it still has a lot of give to it unless you use it in thicker pieces... when it gives under a load it can still stress the area around the hole that the hardware passes thru.
a much cheaper and stronger material to use would be delrin. because of its extreme stiffness, it will effectively spread the stress out over a broader area of the deck, which is what is required for high tension loading. it comes in any thickness you want, it is nearly equivalent to aluminum and is workable like a very hard wood, but wont corrode, rot or degrade in the weather.
and its STRONG... with the larger pieces you can make about anything you can think up... its good stuff to have around if you are creative with tools.

in addition to being used as backing plates for deck hardware, here are a few photos of it in use on my boat.... the mast crutch, turning the pointy caps for the shroud cover tubes, large bullseye lead AND roller for the anchor chain/rode, heavy duty railing clamps, and the finished pointy caps so the jib sheets dont hang up on top if the tubes.... it serves many other uses for me as well and I have more plans and ideas for the stuff than I have time to create with it...

 

[rgranger]

RRanger, your boat looks a whole lot like mine!

Is your's rigged as a cutter?

 

[Bob McL]

The delrin as mentioned in centerline's post, is also used for sheaves. Although, when the delrin sheaves went south due to age, I replaced them with aluminum ones I turned

 

[Looking_Up]

well the bottom is not going to come back to life so i will be doing the whole rodeo
i will try to take and post as many pics as i can
will start sanding tomorrow using a 6" pneumatic disk sander with vacume attachment and starting with 60 grit to take the paint off
hope my sander holds up
Thinking about going with vivid paint getting some neon colors Lime green or Orange mabey whith white being the base

 

[rgranger]

well the bottom is not going to come back to life so i will be doing the whole rodeo
i will try to take and post as many pics as i can
will start sanding tomorrow using a 6" pneumatic disk sander with vacume attachment and starting with 60 grit to take the paint off
hope my sander holds up
Thinking about going with vivid paint getting some neon colors Lime green or Orange mabey whith white being the base

Hey Looking

If you have the ablative stuff... a much easier way to get the paint off is to strip it not sand it. And the toxic dust that sanding will produce is a problem. Go get yourself a $3 bag of garden lime from Lowes or Home Depot and about 5 pounds of canning lye or drain-o. Mix that in a 5 gal PVC bucket with water until it is the thickness of pancake batter. Lay some plastic sheeting under your boat. Roll the paste onto the bottom of your boat. While it is still moist, lift the plastic up and cover the paste, tape the plastic in place with masking tape. The plastic keeps the paste from drying too fast. Let that sit a day and then pressure wash. 90% of the bottom paint will just flake off. You will have a few spots that didn't wash clean, so hit that with a little citrus strip (Walmart) and then scrape. Easy-peasy-leamon-squeezy.

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

V 21

Is your's rigged as a cutter?

Mine has the forestay attachment like yours to go 'cutter style' but I never used it for the second foresail. I installed a CDI furler for the jib, which is only at best 110 % as it really for a precision 19. The dealer threw it in when I discovered the original jib had a hole in it the size of a small TV. I usually use the forward-most attachment point for the headstay/furler.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Second the "leave the topping lift"

I won't sail a boat without one. Makes it so much easier to hoist and lower sail with out the boom dropping.

And on any boat we sold that had one of those stupid, dangerous pigtails on the back stay, we just cut that off.