I recently purchased a Hunter 37 my mast is an Isomet,my boom which has a reefing system of some kind,I presume is also Isomet ,I only have use of the cunningham the reefing line is attached but I think must be broken inside the boom,I cannot see how to get inside the boom short of drilling out the poprivets Help!
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jiffy reef
i have a diagram of how the isomat jiffy reef is rigged. if you need it let me know and i'll bring it home next time i go to the boat, scan it, and e-mail it to you. on my spar the only way to get in there is to drill the rivets. they're easy to replace. chubbard@sprynet.com
i have a diagram of how the isomat jiffy reef is rigged. if you need it let me know and i'll bring it home next time i go to the boat, scan it, and e-mail it to you. on my spar the only way to get in there is to drill the rivets. they're easy to replace. chubbard@sprynet.com
No need
I've taken the outhaul and reefing system out of the boom for upgrading and there's no need to remove the end cap. The sheeves on the end of the boom are removable and with them removed you can service all of it.
I've taken the outhaul and reefing system out of the boom for upgrading and there's no need to remove the end cap. The sheeves on the end of the boom are removable and with them removed you can service all of it.
Hello Charles,I would indeed be grateful if you could send me a diagram,my boat is in Palm Beach and I wont be returning till September so we have lots of time,did you see other response ,whichever method I use Ill still need a diagram it as never worked and Im clueless,thanks for your help yours truly Mike
the block?
how did you get the block inside the boom out. i think that the interior block is the biggest problem with this system. with a double reef, if those sheaves break or the block founders the whole get-up is rendered useless in my opinion. not only useless, but can make hoisting the main a real joy. i replaced the block once and it worked great for a while (comparing work & $ against time) a relatively short while, but now i find myself with a flogging main while i'm trying to pay out the reefing lines. any suggestions would be appreciated. please don't worry about making me feel stupid for having drilled those rivets out
how did you get the block inside the boom out. i think that the interior block is the biggest problem with this system. with a double reef, if those sheaves break or the block founders the whole get-up is rendered useless in my opinion. not only useless, but can make hoisting the main a real joy. i replaced the block once and it worked great for a while (comparing work & $ against time) a relatively short while, but now i find myself with a flogging main while i'm trying to pay out the reefing lines. any suggestions would be appreciated. please don't worry about making me feel stupid for having drilled those rivets out
Not at all!!
We all have to learn and asking questions is a great way. Anyway, to remove the internal double ended block which by the way is garbage, you release all of the lines that run over the outboard sheaves. When they are eased, the four sheaves are removed with the steel shaft that they rotate on. Now there is enough clearance to extract the internal block(s) by simply pulling the outboard reefing line. If you replace it with a good quality ball bearing block you should have no trouble reefing. In fact, the ball bearings make it that much easier. Dont forget to attach a messenger line to the inboard reefing line so that you can refeed the new block.
We all have to learn and asking questions is a great way. Anyway, to remove the internal double ended block which by the way is garbage, you release all of the lines that run over the outboard sheaves. When they are eased, the four sheaves are removed with the steel shaft that they rotate on. Now there is enough clearance to extract the internal block(s) by simply pulling the outboard reefing line. If you replace it with a good quality ball bearing block you should have no trouble reefing. In fact, the ball bearings make it that much easier. Dont forget to attach a messenger line to the inboard reefing line so that you can refeed the new block.
Reefing solutions
Ditto on the 'garbage blocks'. For those that have replaced the reefing blocks, can you provide sourcing information. So far, I have yet to find a Ronstan, Harken or Schaefer block with matched ball bearing sheaves. One solution is to use two single ball bearing blocks back-to-back, however, most require shackles to connect resulting in a fairly lengthy assembly.
Ditto on the 'garbage blocks'. For those that have replaced the reefing blocks, can you provide sourcing information. So far, I have yet to find a Ronstan, Harken or Schaefer block with matched ball bearing sheaves. One solution is to use two single ball bearing blocks back-to-back, however, most require shackles to connect resulting in a fairly lengthy assembly.
I used...
...Frederiksen blocks. They are available at the Ronstan website: http://www.ronstan.dk/english/Index/index.hthttp://www.ronstan.dk/english/Index/index.htmm
...Frederiksen blocks. They are available at the Ronstan website: http://www.ronstan.dk/english/Index/index.hthttp://www.ronstan.dk/english/Index/index.htmm
356 vs 35.5 reefing systems
Mitigating the inherent friction in the 35.5 reefing system is proving to be a rigging pain-in-the... After researching the reefing systems in Albins to X-Yachts, there's definitely a trend towards simpler reefing rigs. For example, the Hunter 356 eliminates the need for the two dual block cars [in the boom] and the dual block at the mast base by using what seems to be a much more conventional design. See attached. Any cons to the notion of converting the 35.5 reefing system to a reefing system similar to that used on the newer 356??
Mitigating the inherent friction in the 35.5 reefing system is proving to be a rigging pain-in-the... After researching the reefing systems in Albins to X-Yachts, there's definitely a trend towards simpler reefing rigs. For example, the Hunter 356 eliminates the need for the two dual block cars [in the boom] and the dual block at the mast base by using what seems to be a much more conventional design. See attached. Any cons to the notion of converting the 35.5 reefing system to a reefing system similar to that used on the newer 356??
Attachments
just finished refitting....
my reefing system. i tried getting around drilling the rivets, but, to get the blocks that i wanted in there, i had to. discovered that it is all in the blocks and the quality of the line. the line for the deep reef didn't look to bad so i tried to re-use it. replaced both blocks with 2 each 2" ball bearing single blocks shackled together, and replaced the shallow reefing line. when finished i could pull the shallow reef out of the outboard end of the boom with two fingers. the older deep reef i had to use a fist and a fair amount of muscle (which was an improvement considering that before i had to run back and forth between ends of the boom, pulling line from the cockpit inboard, then pulling the slack outboard). after replacing the deep reefing line, they both now feed from the cockpit to the end of the boom effortlessly. thanks for the tip on the blocks alan, the originals were indeed crap
my reefing system. i tried getting around drilling the rivets, but, to get the blocks that i wanted in there, i had to. discovered that it is all in the blocks and the quality of the line. the line for the deep reef didn't look to bad so i tried to re-use it. replaced both blocks with 2 each 2" ball bearing single blocks shackled together, and replaced the shallow reefing line. when finished i could pull the shallow reef out of the outboard end of the boom with two fingers. the older deep reef i had to use a fist and a fair amount of muscle (which was an improvement considering that before i had to run back and forth between ends of the boom, pulling line from the cockpit inboard, then pulling the slack outboard). after replacing the deep reefing line, they both now feed from the cockpit to the end of the boom effortlessly. thanks for the tip on the blocks alan, the originals were indeed crap
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