I recently got a C&C32 and the floors were horrible. I decided to make my own anad here is the end result.
Redid my floors on a C&C 32
- Thread starter wojtek86
- Start date
I knew it was something more than just varnish.
These steps were done about five years ago and were covered with glass cloth and epoxy plus varnish for UV protection. Lots of grubby, sandy little feet over the years. The glass completely disappears in the epoxy as they both have the same refractive index.
These steps were done about five years ago and were covered with glass cloth and epoxy plus varnish for UV protection. Lots of grubby, sandy little feet over the years. The glass completely disappears in the epoxy as they both have the same refractive index.
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I probably shouldn't say as I'm still waiting for the patent to go through but ..................
- Taped off the narrow sections I wanted to cover in non skid.
- Applied varnish by brush to these taped off areas.
- Sprinkled ground up silica (quartz) on the wet varnish which acted as an adhesive.
- Peeled off the masking tape while the varnish was still wet.
- Let varnish dry.
- Applied a few more coats of varnish to all of the stairs for UV protection.
- Once the varnish was dry and hard, installed the stairs.
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Another way to get non-skid onto varnish, so I have heard, is to get to the final coat of varnish, then sprinkle granulated sugar on it. When dry, wash off the sugar with water. The idea was to leave rough craters of the sugar. Just did a bit more research, sounds like folks cover the surface liberally, at least a 1/4" and then put weight on the sugar layer. Some people then put another coat of varnish on. You need to use bigger granules, I suspect white table sugar isn't big enough. (Confectioner's sugar is right out ) This method probably makes more of a rumply texture like we see on gelcoat non-skid. I think I'd have to do some espiramentin' to see how all this works out...
This might not last as long as Ralph's method leaving the silica in the varnish.
Another non-skid solution for varnish is ground up walnut shells mixed in with the varnish. The brown of the walnut shells probably looks ok with the varnished wood.
) This method probably makes more of a rumply texture like we see on gelcoat non-skid. I think I'd have to do some espiramentin' to see how all this works out...This might not last as long as Ralph's method leaving the silica in the varnish.
Another non-skid solution for varnish is ground up walnut shells mixed in with the varnish. The brown of the walnut shells probably looks ok with the varnished wood.
Feels rough and abrasive under bare foot which is what keeps you from doing the splits or worse
. The abrasive has stayed in place for about five years now. I recently added another bit of abrasive along the leading edge and then covered the old and new abrasive with an additional couple of coats of varnish.
Nothing special as it was an "inside job". First thing that came to hand, off the shelf was interior gloss Varathane. Just wait until is has thoroughly hardened before installing.
Egads ................ absolutely not
. Don't know what kind of a witch's brew that would produce.The epoxy, which goes on first, provides a hard, waterproof encapsulation and the final varnish coats protect the epoxy from UV damage.
System Three is the epoxy I use but West System and others all supply pretty much the same products. Read the the Epoxy Book for System Three before starting your next project.
https://systemthree.com/pages/literature
Like I said, I'm new at this. Thats why I ask so many questions, many if which I'm sure seem down right basic to those with experience. I rely on the kindness and understanding of folks like you Ralph to guide me and I have not been disappointed yet. Thank you so very much for the cobtinuing education. Now, since some of my new wood already has multiole coats of varnish on it can I reverse the process and put the epoxy on top of it and then recoat with varnish on top of that? I'm guessing not but it does not hurt to ask.
I've never been in a position to epoxy over existing varnish so not too sure how it would stick. I'd go slowly and experiment with scrap pieces to see what results you get.
For interior, I have really liked results of just teak oil. Easy to apply and lasts much longer without exterior exposure. The epoxy should be on the bare wood, which penetrates and provides a solid surface. There is no UV protection, so top coats of spar varnish protects from the sun. Interior has much less UV exposure,