Raymarine ST6000 Saga

hutch5151 · Mar 21, 2011

I have had good results from Raymarine in repairing used units. They tested my ST5000 control head, found no problems and returned it to me with no charge. They have also repaired other instrument heads for the stated charge on their web site. I have a hard time believing that they would repair a unit without first testing it to determine if it functioned properly.

windward54 · Mar 21, 2011

I too have had good results from my dealings with Raymarine. I would have a hard time believing that they charged to repair a working item. Sounds like you had the bad luck of having two items go bad at about the same time.

Witzend · Mar 21, 2011

I'm not buying it, check your connections/ground

Witzend · Mar 21, 2011

No, your setup. You have no way of knowing whether or not the rotatory drive was really bad unless they sent the bad part back which you should have insisted. It's is just a motor, a belt, and enclosure. Put 12v to the motor it should run. Your "drive stop error" is not a fault that a motor would have. Either the computer is telling the motor to run to the limit in error, or the computer is being given false information from the transducer sensor. Is it calibrated correctly? Has the transduce some how become loose and now out of reference. What happens when you first turn on the unit in standby and swing the wheel to each limit point, do you see the readout correctly represent the rudder position?

higgs · Mar 21, 2011

I had trouble with my 6000. First they reprogrammed the computer and after a short period of working, things went bad. Then they started sending me rudder sensors. No change. I was convinced it was the computer and finally wrote them asking for a cost price on a new computer, saying I understood I was out of warranty, but just wanted the damn thing to work. They sent me a new computer at no charge and everything has been great since. I did run into a pro who set my rudder sensor at the same time, so I really can't say for sure if the computer was the problem or if I had not set the rudder sensor right. Usually I am pretty good at setting things up, so I do think it was the computer.

Ken13559 · Mar 22, 2011

I suppose you don't need a rudder reference transducer to get the AP working. I never had a ref transducer for my ST4000 MK2 AP till some years later. You just need to tell the Course Computer that there is no rudder reference transducer and it won't look for one. Try and see if that works.

Rick D · Mar 22, 2011

I think you'll find that there are lots of boats with thousands of hours on these units. By all means, replace the rudder sensor and be done with it. In my mind, this wouldn't even be a remote option. If he gives you grief, get someone else.

Don S/V ILLusion · Mar 22, 2011

I'm with Rick. You have a working computer and refurbished drive motor, the most expensive parts. The $900 spent only becomes a waste if you are confident the rest can't be returned to working condition which should take a minimal add'l amount.

kloudie1 · Mar 22, 2011

Even though the literature says ya don't need the rudder sensor, the old 4000+ on my boat drove like a drunken sailor until I put a sensor on. After hours of tuning, I could get it to drive straight without the sensor for about a mile then it would go nuts and start driving all over then alarm on "Off Course" .. The day I put the sensor on, it drove straight as an arrow, all day long.. I was in love !
i would give the sensor a shot.. I found mine on E-bay at a considerably better price than elsewhere.. but I found some at good prices at several places.. Google ON !

Bill Roosa · Mar 22, 2011

Well there is one thing you should ALWAYS consider first. Salt water, electricity and metal do not get along well at all. 99.44% of all electrical problems are corrosion related with exposed connections being the worst offenders.
What I hear everybody saying is the wiring (connectors at the units or the unit's connections) are not up to snuff and after fixing the wires they did not make sure the connectors where clean. These are 5 volt low amp circuits and very easily disrupted by corrosion.
I would note that the 6000 computer has exposed connections not water proof ones. I'd give the computer connection buss a very good looking over. Pull it if you have to to inspect the terminal block for rust. Also check the individual wires where they connect to the computer. Note when you disconnect them if any rust falls off. One of the most cost saving skills you can ever develop on a boat is the visual inspection of ALL connections and wires. Followed by an ohm meter check of suspect parts. The computer told you the fault so either the computer is getting bad info (corroded connection) or the part is bad (also corroded parts most likely) or the wiring is bad. I’d not suspect the computer unless the case was cracked or you had a lightning strike.
I've worked with lots of "professional mechanics" through the years and I'll tell you almost none know what they are talking about. Consider this; if it fails at sea who is going to diagnose and fix the problem? Perhaps learning how to fix it is a) less costly in the long run and b) provides better safety while at sea. Most of the non-computer parts are VERY simple to trouble shoot with an ohm meter. Nigel’s (don’t remember his last name) book has an extensive picture walk-U-through of how to diagnose most anything.
And, of course, there is a wealth of knowledge here at the site.

Bill Roosa · Mar 22, 2011

The rudder sensor is just a simple variable resistor. All the way one way is low resistance and all the way the other is high resistance. There should be a smooth change in resistance from one to the other with no jumps or dropouts.

Bill Roosa · Mar 22, 2011

OK, Let me ask you though. Do you like giving all your beer money to other folks? This could (and probably is) as simple as:
1 go buy a 12 pack of your favorite beverage
2 pull the computer noting what you find as you disconnect the wires
3 get in a sunny spot and really give the connector block a good look, clean and bright are what you are looking for, clean repair as needed, an emery board cut to size works great
4 get a strong light and inspect the wire ends, clean or clip as needed
5 reinstall the computer and test burn it
6 finish the beer

I know it sounds scary to work on “computers” but the only time I have ever heard of one failing is when it gets drowned or there is a lightning strike. The connections leading to the circuit board however go bad all the time unless the wires have weather proof plugs.

You can do it, yes you can, you can fix that Sam-I-Am.
Try it try it, you will see, fixing computers is E-A-Z-E

Bill Roosa · Mar 22, 2011

Not at all. There is not much on boats that is very complicated. Nigel's sailboat maintenance book is a great referance. Once you know basic electricity the rest falls into place.
I would recommend checking the rudder sensor with an ohm meter. Just pull the two wires off the computer and measure the resistance on them as a helper moves the rudder. You should see a nice smooth change from highest resistance at one stop to lowest at the other. No jumps (high spikes) or drop outs (low spikes)

DannyS · Mar 22, 2011

Hey Princess, I have an extra one of these doohickeys on our boat. Not sure if it works or if it's the right sensor for your pilot, but it may be worth a shot. Any plans to venture through the gales and snow to begin the spring cleaning? I'll be another month or so, so if you can wait, it's yours.

Raymarine ST6000 Saga

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