Raw Water Cooling Schematic

[philwsailz]

Okay, so as not to completely hijack Rodd's thread re: drilling/opening clogged external strainers, let me post this thread and ask a few questions.

See my attached schematic below, as a first idea about how to do a better replacement raw water system for My C27 with Atomic 4. Per recommendations yesterday I want to go with at least a 1" thru-hull, and I want to go with a flanged seacock. I prefer the Forespar stuff, so it will need to be 1.5" for the mushroom fitting and seacock. I might as well go 1.5" plumbing up to the strainer, since the Forespar strainer is 1.5" inlet and outlet, (and I think I have one from a parts boat!). Coming out of the strainer, I can reduce to 1" or 3/4" depending on what the motor wants, and go past a y-valve to make life easier for flushing and winterizing maybe.

As I type this I realize what I drew is not going to be convenient for winterizing the actual plumbing, only the motor... So, based on trying to design a proper system that is easy to clear AND winterize, what recommendations would you make to ammend the drawing? Also, how high can or should the strainer be, and if well above waterline, is there a need for a check valve in the plumbing?

If I am going to spend the money, I want to do it once, and right!

 

[rpell1@msn.com]

Hi Phil,

The P.O. of my '91 Catalina 30 had installed several fittings to allow him to fluch out the thru-hull of growth normally a problem in the Savannah area. Now that the boat is in New York, I find it invaluable for winterizing as well as occasional flushing.

This system amounts to threading a pvc coupling into the top of the thru-hull...threading a tee into the coupling....threading a hose barb for the hose to the strainer on one side of the tee and threading a 3/4" pvc pipe (about 12" long) into the vertical leg of the tee that is threaded at the top as well to accept a cap.

I'm sure other owners will suggest a system that works for them and ultimately you will find a configuration that will work for you.

Good Luck and Happy Sailing

 

[Dunlookin]

I considered a number of options and followed the KISS principle. I installed a sea water strainer between the (valved) thru-hull and the water pump. I used whale quick release fittings between the sea cock and the sea water strainer.

To winterize I "release" the quick releases and use a "male" quick release to "plumb" into the line going to the water pump.

I also have a short peice of hose with "male" fittings on both ends just in case I need to "by-pass" a "fouled" sea strainer.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

For the Ultimate in Simplicity ....................

......................... you may want to look at this arrangement.

The hose connection is for a short length of hose into a bucket of anti-freeze for winterization.

This setup can also act as an auxilliary bilge pump for those days when the regular bilge pump just isn't quite enough to keep your sox dry.

Unfortunately, as you've said, the engine and the rest of the plumbing are two different worlds so it's back to the drawing board for winterizing them.

 

[dziedzicmj]

are the whale connectors "quick release" or "quick connect"? The point is I am not sure if they would work well for connecting and disconnecting. How many times have you disconnected them without failure?
I like the set-up, but Whale does not say anything about multiple use.

MD

 

[Chris Patterson]

Phil, why not put the Y valve between the seacock and strainer? Then it would all be "winterized", for the exception of the short length from Y valve to thru hull..
Just a thought.