Raritan Compact (older model) Fresh Head Conversion

Jun 7, 2021
2
Ericson E29 Marina Del Rey
Hi All,

I have an older Raritan Compact toilet on my boat, which is a manual pump toilet that is currently not operational (there's a crack in the pump). This existing Raritan has been fitted to the original toilet intake and sink drain thruhulls (dangerous and not allowed for direct discharge, I know). The PO then had a fresh water line gong to the the head sink faucet with a manual hand pump with a sink drain line leading into the bilge (because the drain thruhull was connected to the toilet discharge... crazy I know).

For the time being the thruhulls to the current toilet system are closed and it is not being used.

I have installed a pressurized freshwater system on the boat for the galley faucet and sink and would like to use that pressurized system to supply the head sink and toilet if possible, then attach the sink drain to the original thruhull which was designed for this purpose, leaving the original toilet supply intake thruhull closed.

I have read about the Raritan fresh head as the best manual toilet for pressurized water, but I have several questions:

1. Does the Fresh Head conversion kit work for all Raritan manual pump toilets (especially older Compacts)?
2. Does the Fresh Head pump kit do a good job of fully clearing the toilet? Is an electric with macerator a better option to avoid clogging etc. if we are using it for "going number 2"?
3. Does the Fresh Head have any history of contaminating the fresh water supply?
4. I am planning to install a holding tank below water line without any direct discharge option. I have heard of flexible (bag) holding tanks. I am wondering if you have any experience with these? Good/bad? Otherwise I'll probably contact Ronco to see if they have any custom tank options that will fit nicely under my salon seating since that is right next to the head.
5. If I don't have a direct discharge and I'm using pressurized freshwater supply, do I need to install a vented loop? I'm assuming not, since the system would be a fully closed system and there's no siphon/sinking risk.
6. Is there any reason why a holding tank vent manifold should not travel a long way (10 feet) from the tank itself before it mounts on the exterior of the hull?
7. I'm going to be installing a holding tank pumpout valve on the deck of the boat somewhere. Ideally I want the pumpout line to be as short as possible to avoid having a buildup of sewage in the pumpout line, but does this really matter? It would be much more convenient to install the pumpout valve near the stern of the boat away from my rigging etc. Also, what's the best value pumpout valve unit/hardware to purchase?

Thanks a ton in advance for all / any advice!

@Peggie Hall HeadMistress you seem to be the authority on this topic and the equipment, so any advice or feedback from you would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Last edited:
Jan 7, 2011
4,726
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
How old is the boat (or the head)? Way different than my 1980’s Raritan.

Greg
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,708
- - LIttle Rock
I had to dig DEEP into my files from the '80s to find the Raritan Compact toilet, and the oldest literature I have for it is for the Compact II...same toilet as the original Compact, just re-engineered a bit. I'm surprised it still works at all 'cuz no parts have been available for it for at least 20 years!

I have read about the Raritan fresh head as the best manual toilet for pressurized water, but I have several questions:
Actually it's the ONLY manual toilet designed to use onboard pressurized flush water. It's as safe to connect to your freshwater plumbing as any electric toilet designed to use onboard pressurized flushwater...that is, totally safe. It is an expensive toilet and there's an easy way to plumb a PHII--any manual toilet actually, to allow you to use seawater AND fresh water without risk to the potable water supply.

Answers to your questions:
1. Does the Fresh Head conversion kit work for all Raritan manual pump toilets (especially older Compacts)?
No. It only works to convert the Raritan PH II.

2. Does the Fresh Head pump kit do a good job of fully clearing the toilet? Is an electric with macerator a better option to avoid clogging etc. if we are using it for "going number 2"?
It does as good a job as any other manual toilet. The operator controls the flush water (ALWAYS add water to the bowl ahead of solid waste) and the amount of pumping needed, a lot of which depends on the distance from the toilet to the tank.
3. Does the Fresh Head have any history of contaminating the fresh water supply?
Already answered above. The answer to your question is "NONE."
4. I am planning to install a holding tank below water line without any direct discharge option. I have heard of flexible (bag) holding tanks. I am wondering if you have any experience with these? Good/bad? Otherwise I'll probably contact Ronco to see if they have any custom tank options that will fit nicely under my salon seating since that is right next to the head.
Go with a rigid tank...bladders are ok for water and fuel, but they're expensive, prone to leak at a fitting at the slightest sign of a blockage and even the best ones only have about a 15 yr lifespan. Ronco tanks are top quality with walls a least 50
50% thicker than most tanks, plus they install fittings in the sizes and locations specified by the customer when they make the tank. They're certain to have one that'll fit your space (we prob'ly should discuss the best location) 'cuz they have 400+ shapes and sizes, over 100 non-rectangular to fit just about anywhere. Ronco's marine tank catalog is here: Ronco Plastics marine Tanks
5. If I don't have a direct discharge and I'm using pressurized freshwater supply, do I need to install a vented loop? I'm assuming not, since the system would be a fully closed system and there's no siphon/sinking risk.
Prob'ly not.
6. Is there any reason why a holding tank vent manifold should not travel a long way (10 feet) from the tank itself before it mounts on the exterior of the hull?
There's every reason why it shouldn't be anywhere near that long. We need to talk about that too.

7. I'm going to be installing a holding tank pumpout valve on the deck of the boat somewhere. Ideally I want the pumpout line to be as short as possible to avoid having a buildup of sewage in the pumpout line, but does this really matter? It would be much more convenient to install the pumpout valve near the stern of the boat away from my rigging etc. Also, what's the best value pumpout valve unit/hardware to purchase?
Deck pumpout fittings are pretty standard...Perko is available just about everywhere. The best location for it is another thing we should discuss.

If you'd like my help to get all this right the first time, send me a PM to get the ball rolling. I'm happy to help!

--Peggie


 
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