RAKA epoxy

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Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Anyone else here used RAKA epoxy? What was your experience like?
I have a kit, medium viscosity resin and non blushing hardener. The resin is very thick (I can't imagine thicker) and the hardener takes forever to kick! I coated some pieces of ply 7 hours ago and they are still tacky in 80+ heat.
Did I get a bad batch? The only other epoxy I've ever used is West System and bought this because of price and kit size.
as you have found out, the medium or slow cure will take a bit of time to lose its tack...
In my personal experience, I have found no good reason for buying the thicker stuff when I am able to add as much thickener to it as I desire, and the thin stuff has many uses and will soak in better when needed. the thin stuff is more versatile....

the long tack time is a good thing when you are layering, but not so good when you are in a hurry.
a large batch of the slow cure will have very little longer pot life, but mixed in small batches it will stay workable for about 30 minutes

And the very best way to mix it, is to get a small digital scale like harbor freight sells for 8 dollars and mix it by weight.... you will never be left wondering about if you made a mistake in your eyesight guess-timation of ratio...:D
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
The ratios aren't that tight. Anyone that can't perform a 2:1 mix probably shouldn't be messing with the stuff in the first place. I think people mess up the mix thinking they can push the resin kick by adding hardener like polyester resin and MEK.
When I'm making or repairing something, I do multiple laminations at one time and cannot for the life of me see the value in waiting hours for the resin to kick.
Life is just too short to waste waiting on bad epoxy!:D
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
The ratios aren't that tight. Anyone that can't perform a 2:1 mix probably shouldn't be messing with the stuff in the first place. I think people mess up the mix thinking they can push the resin kick by adding hardener like polyester resin and MEK.
When I'm making or repairing something, I do multiple laminations at one time and cannot for the life of me see the value in waiting hours for the resin to kick.
Life is just too short to waste waiting on bad epoxy!:D
you are correct in everything here....
but for some people reading this who may be thinking its not at least a little bit important to be as close as possible, or that their untrained eye will get them thru a first time project without a glitch, I will add this....

epoxy and polyester resin and it's hardener are way different than epoxy resin and it's hardener even though the workability is almost identical.
study the properties of each to make the correct long term decision on which is best for your project.

even though the ratios arent that tight for the epoxy to cure and be workable (or polyester resin for that matter) a bit too much one way can shorten the perfect life of the finished product. I will refer to gelcoats which are NOT epoxy, but where after a while you get the crazing lines and actual cracking of it, letting water in to do more damage over time.... a perfect mix wont do this in its normal life....
and to far out of ratio the other way, the finished product will never reach its intended strength. some projects dont require such critical attention, but then some do....
and some of us can mix fairly close without a scale, but its also surprising how far off we can be sometimes even when we think its perfect. specially in a small batch. with a scale you can have it absolute every time. I also think its faster, and there is no bit of extra product left in one bottle when the other is gone....

I dont like unecessary waiting either when its the only project on the bench at the time and have notheing else to turn my attention to while waiting:) so its good to have a couple different hardeners on hand so you can mix either a fast cure or a slow cure, (as well as a thickening agent) depending on your need for the project, and for the first coat on any wood I firmly believe in and recommend a thin resin with a slow cure hardner. it will be the foundation coat and its good for it to stay in its liquid state so it can penetrate as deeply into the wood as possible. a good strong foundation is worth waiting for, no matter what the project is...
when coating over an already sealed, firm surface, the fast cure may be the perfect mix if its a reasonably small project, or you are prepared to move fast...:D
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
I should correct my statement about bad epoxy. Just because it doesn't work like I prefer doesn't mean it's bad.
 

wetass

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Mar 9, 2011
190
CS 36T Seattle
I've used Raka as well for several larger projects and never had a single issue. Really like the stuff (especially the price), but for smaller projects its just easier to head to the store and pick up a gallon of West System rather then wait for shipping.
 

PaulK

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Dec 1, 2009
1,376
Sabre 402 Southport, CT
If you were closer you could have the 80 percent of the kit I have left Paul. Not visiting East Central Florida any time soon?
I was spoiled by West System.
Send it on up! I'm building myself a 17' kayak now, and was about to contact RAKA again.

I've used West on our J/36 quite a bit. I find the pumps get hugely messy, and inevitably get an air bubble in them so the dosage comes out wrong in the pan you're mixing up, with no way to tell how much it's off. I also had problems with fogging due to humidity trapped under surfaces we were trying to coat, and ended up sanding off the hardened epoxy twice before I simply varnished the final side instead (teak & holly ply for floorboards). The Raka I pour into separate resin & catalyst measuring containers, put the tops back on the jugs, and mix up in a third tray. Less mess and I only have to count to 2.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
A couple of things I've found over the years.

RAKA, MAS, SYS 3, and any of the other 2-1 ratios cure much slower in cooler temps than WEST System 5-1 ratio does. When I was building boats for a living, I used WEST epoxy when it was cool (not cold) and I needed an over night cure and the normal 2-1 ratio epoxies otherwise. The 2-1 ratios can take up to 3 days in temps in the 60s.

WEST epoxy is great, but has just gotten so much more expensive than others, that I stopped using it.

As for the blush-no-blush stuff. I just automatically assume it blushed , particularly in cooler temps, so I water wash as a matter of course. Wet rag, rinsed often, then dried down with an old towel. Takes just a few minutes, and saves a ton of grief. Amine blush is totally water soluble
 
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