raising the main single handed
- Thread starter walt
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What installing an AP, try and place the plug socket in a secure place, out of the way of foot traffic. The thing makes a hard connection and has NO give. Sum this will last maybe a year of solid use before someone snaps it off with their foot in a rough seaway.I just installed one but of course haven't been able to try it out.
Sum, I have a remote for the ST1000 that I can control the AP from the front of the boat. It's fun to be able to stand up front and steer the boat while making way in the harbor. At MDR the motoring channel is buoyed off rather narrow. The Kayakers and SUP's think that the pedestrian traffic rules apply. When I don't use it I have to occasionally run back and make corrections, It is a wired remote and unwinding and rewinding the cord can be a pain so I don't use it that much. I am thinking of rewiring a plug near the mast to make it easier.I just installed one but of course haven't been able to try it out.
Once the brackets are made/installed then using it is maybe a 20 second deal. It just sits on one bracket (far starboard side of laz hatch in my case) and a pin on the tiller and then plug the cable into a socket and it is there. Simple and fast. I think I'm going to enjoy it.
In my case besides sailing and motoring I hope that it helps me getting to anchor. I'm setting the trolling motor up so I can toggle it on/off from the bow. With the tiller pilot I should be able to reduce speed and set course to where I plan on putting the anchor down and toggle the trolling motor on/off to get there on course and then off and drop the anchor,
Sumner
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On the Mac26 I used to have an old Tillermaster that I installed a receiver switch and car door remote that I carried in my pocket as a buoy dodgers. I would not change the course but it had a momentary switch that changed the course as long as you held it in. As soon as it was released it would go back to the old course. The ST1000 remote changes the course by 1 and 10 degree increments. Trying to make it wireless would be a little more involved. Installing a remote receptacle should not Tb too much work and only requires 18-20 gauge wire.
Maybe this winter, who knows.
As they say, "Your boat.....
But I've seem several of them snapped. And in your own words, you "just installed it and have not used it." So how would you know?? I'm simply pointing out that putting a hard, brittle plastic connector what it can be hit with your feet is not a great idea. If you want to argue with that common sense advice for that sake of arguing, so be it. But to everyone else I say, don't put it there where you can snap it.
I'm not aruguing I'm just saying I know where my feet go in my boat and don't feel it is going to be a problem there. You have a point in general about placement that is a good one, but I don't feel it applies to my situation as far as where I placed the plug.
Over 90% of the time that cup holder that is part of the cockpit bed shown above is above where that plug is located.
My comment about not using it yet was in reference to not actually using a tiller pilot to navigate.
I think there would be more people post on here if people didn't try and tear their posts apart but took them for what they were. I posted what I've done not what anyone else should do.
I removed my other posts on this as 'obviously I've done this install wrong and would not want to suggest to anyone else to screw up the same way,
Sumner
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Sum,
I'm sorry that you took my comments as 'tearing your post apart;. That was not my intent. At all.
This is an open internet forum, where people freely express their ideas, mostly so others can learn from them. I suppose that is why you took the time to post your picture. When we do post on the internet, it is part of a large global conversation. We expect (and want) comment on our thoughts and ideas. Sometimes they agree with ours. Sometimes they do not. And sometimes they prove us wrong. As for me and this conversation, I noticed right away (from prior experience) that based on that picture and arrow, my opinion was that the plug was in a poor location due its it likelihood of breaking when brushed with a foot. That was the reason for my comment.
If it indeed works for you (after you get around to actually using it), I'm happy for you. The cup holder shown in the 2nd picture will probably help protect it. But to everyone else, I'd like to say that the connector of the Raymarine 1000/2000 tillerpilot is very brittle and will snap if mistreated. Prudent seamanship would have you mount it in a secure position as possible to reduce the chance of it breaking at the worst possible time. The footwell of a cockpit is probaly the WORST place for it. Hopefully that makes everyone happy.
I'm sorry that you took my comments as 'tearing your post apart;. That was not my intent. At all.
This is an open internet forum, where people freely express their ideas, mostly so others can learn from them. I suppose that is why you took the time to post your picture. When we do post on the internet, it is part of a large global conversation. We expect (and want) comment on our thoughts and ideas. Sometimes they agree with ours. Sometimes they do not. And sometimes they prove us wrong. As for me and this conversation, I noticed right away (from prior experience) that based on that picture and arrow, my opinion was that the plug was in a poor location due its it likelihood of breaking when brushed with a foot. That was the reason for my comment.
If it indeed works for you (after you get around to actually using it), I'm happy for you. The cup holder shown in the 2nd picture will probably help protect it. But to everyone else, I'd like to say that the connector of the Raymarine 1000/2000 tillerpilot is very brittle and will snap if mistreated. Prudent seamanship would have you mount it in a secure position as possible to reduce the chance of it breaking at the worst possible time. The footwell of a cockpit is probaly the WORST place for it. Hopefully that makes everyone happy.
Sum, let me begin by I always look forward to your post. You put Al lot of thought and work into your mods. I can see where Jackdaw would be concerned about someone breaking it before you posted the cup holder picture (BTW another nice mod). As one who is guilty of snapping off the starter key on a Cat 30 on which I was a guest. The key of all places was on the side of the cockpit seat just waiting to be kicked. I felt really bad when I did it, I don't remember now if it was before or after my shoulder bumped his drink holder that was mounted to the stern rail post. The cup holder ended up in the water floating there tempting us to retrieve it. When he tried to get it with the dock hook it filled with water and sank. Needless to say it was my first and last time ever on this guy's boat, I'm sure he still talks about the old fart that tried to tear apart his boat.
In regards to your placement, even without the cup holder in place, that big blue arrow should help to keep people from kicking your plug..
In regards to your placement, even without the cup holder in place, that big blue arrow should help to keep people from kicking your plug..
FWIW, I cut my AP plug off and used a cigarette plug.
The female plug in the engine well would get rusty, and I'd replace it, but I could always run an extension into the cabin. I try to have a backup plan!
The female plug in the engine well would get rusty, and I'd replace it, but I could always run an extension into the cabin. I try to have a backup plan!
the helm wont stay on course with the tiller lashed... a full keel may for a longer amount of time after the sails are up and balanced, but not a fin keeled boat... it will always need a little adjustment.
it may be possible to find some balance for a longer period of time in a certain amount of breeze, on the perfect heading with just the right amount of sail up, but it will never be a dependable occurrence....
the tiller pilot uses its internal compass to keep the boat pointed in the direction it was in when you pressed the "auto" button... and it doesnt care which direction that was, or which way the wind is blowing, or if its even blowing at all... if the boat has steerage, it WILL remain pointed in the direction you set it to..... if you ever feel you want to connect the gps to it, it will steer a multiple waypoint course that you create, or track-back with a press of the button....
but the thing is a wonderful tool with just a simple connection for auto steering, without having all the complications that you could create if you wanted to
the "limit" issues that the mods are for are unnecessary.... what happens is, you manually steer the boat in the direction you want it to go... then you only press one button, the "auto" button to lock it on course..... it does the course keeping.
there are two other buttons for course adjustment (each, for port and starboard), a 10degree button and a 1degree button.... if you want to veer 4degrees to starboard, press the 1degree starboard button 4 times....
if you want to veer 10degrees, press the 10 button once....
now if you want to do a 180 to track back, you can do it manually or you can press the 10 button 18 times... BUT... the boat wont turn fast enough so the autopilot arm will be pushing hard over(to the full stroke of the unit) while waiting for the boat to come about on course so it can get the tiller back to its center position.... while its waiting for the boat to come about, the autopilot motor continues to push and push and push, ect, while its up against the internal stop, until its time to straighten itself out... over time this pushing can be harmful to the drive mechanism.
2 things you can do to prevent it, all you need to do when you want to turn fully around is push the 10 degree button 6 times, wait for the boat to swing, then push 6 times again, and when it swings, 6 times again....you will be headed 180degrees the other way
OR...what i do is push the "standby" button, which takes it off auto, lift the pilot off its peg on the tiller, steer the boat around by hand, replace the pilot on the peg and press the "auto button"... pretty simple actually, and a much quicker, tighter turn.
there is also an "auto tack" feature, so when you are single handing, you can press the buttons when your ready to tack... it will steer the boat about and straighten it out on the new tack, while you are handing the sheets..... you dont need to touch the tiller.
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I agree with this. fully 100%....
but would also like to say that sometimes the "tone" of the comment can seem harsh, even though nothing of the sort was intended. i think its happened to all of us, both on the giving end and on the receiving end.... its only a "thing" that doesnt matter either way, unless it happens too often
Sum, your going to love that device. I definitely want to read your "review" after you use it during an extended trip..
I think Jackdaw has a valid point. My suggestion for Sum's connection is to shorten the cord and relocate the waterproof plug as close to unit as possible. To me, the lengthy cord poses as great a potential problem as the plug location.
Not trying to be critical, just making an observation from my own experience. I've made a number of miscalculations that could have been avoided with a friendly comment or two. For instance, although my wire connection is ideal, mounting the unit on the coaming means a lot of extensions added to the control arm. Although this old TP (Autohelm 1000) has worked flawlessly for many years, it would be even more efficient with a short bracket to move the pivot mounting inboard 6-8 inches. Right.... I'll get around to that project sooner or later.
Not trying to be critical, just making an observation from my own experience. I've made a number of miscalculations that could have been avoided with a friendly comment or two. For instance, although my wire connection is ideal, mounting the unit on the coaming means a lot of extensions added to the control arm. Although this old TP (Autohelm 1000) has worked flawlessly for many years, it would be even more efficient with a short bracket to move the pivot mounting inboard 6-8 inches. Right.... I'll get around to that project sooner or later.
Attachments
On my C 27 I put the autopilot plug in the back of the cubby so that it was out of the weather. I had a plug on my Mac 25 for the outboard that was always becoming corroded with the rain. I didn't want to go through that with this plug. It's pretty easy to get to and well protected I also have the plug for the remote control right next to it in the cubby.
Walt;
I am curious to the bend of the mast if it is bending too far aft due to mistuning?
Believe it or not, sometimes a severe aft bend will make raising the main harder and the mast tune could be off for performance. As a former dealer I have seen his happen. Just a thought.
For many years, I also used trolling motor plugs for quick disconnect and they do not protrude out as far either.
Walt, you are correct about this thread when you asked a question of raising the main when it went off in different tangents. Hope you find a solution to your original question
I am curious to the bend of the mast if it is bending too far aft due to mistuning?
Believe it or not, sometimes a severe aft bend will make raising the main harder and the mast tune could be off for performance. As a former dealer I have seen his happen. Just a thought.
For many years, I also used trolling motor plugs for quick disconnect and they do not protrude out as far either.
Walt, you are correct about this thread when you asked a question of raising the main when it went off in different tangents. Hope you find a solution to your original question
Its a 24 year old Mac.. there is some bend in the mast from a tight backstay but its way less than the J22 School boats have at a local pond I sail in Denver have. Interesting that this could cause the sail to be difficult to raise, good tip, makes sense.
Since the boat was in a slip on the day I did this and had been sailed the day before, maybe the backstay was a little bit tight. Maybe we should add to the ideas presented so far that the backstay should also be loose (or maybe just not real tight) before raising the main?
I really don’t have a problem raising the main. On this last trip (my boat is over 800 miles from where I live) I raised the main three times. One of the times was in a good breeze and I should have taken an additional iteration but didn’t - but was just thinking about techniques and I did gain some idea here (thanks again to everyone)..
As far as the thread going where it did - why not!!! It was all good discussion and related to single hand raising the main in windy conditions..
Since the boat was in a slip on the day I did this and had been sailed the day before, maybe the backstay was a little bit tight. Maybe we should add to the ideas presented so far that the backstay should also be loose (or maybe just not real tight) before raising the main?
I really don’t have a problem raising the main. On this last trip (my boat is over 800 miles from where I live) I raised the main three times. One of the times was in a good breeze and I should have taken an additional iteration but didn’t - but was just thinking about techniques and I did gain some idea here (thanks again to everyone)..
As far as the thread going where it did - why not!!! It was all good discussion and related to single hand raising the main in windy conditions..
All my lines run aft to the cockpit. They do not get removed when I lower the mast. I just slack all of them when I move the foot of the mast forward.
Having all the lines in the cockpit makes every action easier when single handing.
Having all the lines in the cockpit makes every action easier when single handing.