Quich Question- Hurth tranny

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gpd955

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Feb 22, 2006
1,164
Catalina 310 Cape May, NJ
Quick Question- Hurth tranny

I have to slide my prop shaft out of the coupling about an inch or two so I can remove an old and install a new SureSeal lip seal for my formerly dripless shaft seal.

Will removing the set screws on the coupling suffice or do I need to remove the entire coupling? The Hurth and Universal manuals are silent about this and I don't want to disassemble something that doesn't need to be.

Below is a pic.....and yes...I will be cleaning up the shaft and coupling!! It's on the list when I slide the shaft out so I have a little more access!!
 

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Mar 20, 2007
500
Catalina 355 Kilmarnock, VA
You have to unbolt the coupling from the transmission output flange, remove the set screws, then remove the coupling from the shaft. Believe me when I say, that coupling ain't gonna come off easily. You'll likely need to buy a purpose-made puller, and you should replace the coupler with a new one. Check my posting on the 309 forum - I just did this job a couple of months ago, and it isn't easy. Maine Sail has some good info and tips on his PBase site.
 

gpd955

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Feb 22, 2006
1,164
Catalina 310 Cape May, NJ
I didn't think of looking at his PSS Shaft Seal Installation one, which, except for the different seal, is what I have to do. Ugh. No wonder why Sure Seal makes a spare lip seal carrier.....of course there's not one on my boat.

I may have to put this off. Boat has to be back in the water on the 5th and I still have to paint. I may have to pull it again once I get back to the marina and if it's going to be that intense, I might as well pull the shaft completely and do the cutless, too. Maybe I'll add a flex coupling while I'm at it. Love how a $22.88 piece of nitrile rubber may cost me a fortune! I still love my boat!

Where's you get the puller? The ones I saw are kits for multiple sizes.
 
Mar 20, 2007
500
Catalina 355 Kilmarnock, VA
Coupler and puller came from Deep Blue Yacht Supply in FL. Good prices and service. I'd get a Buck Algonquin split coupler. My shaft won't come out without dropping the rudder or pulling the engine, or else I would have replaced my Cutless, even though it seems ok. May be different on the 310, which has an entirely different shaft (that's the only difference in our hulls).
 

Tom J

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Sep 30, 2008
2,099
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
I didn't think of looking at his PSS Shaft Seal Installation one, which, except for the different seal, is what I have to do. Ugh. No wonder why Sure Seal makes a spare lip seal carrier.....of course there's not one on my boat.

I may have to put this off. Boat has to be back in the water on the 5th and I still have to paint. I may have to pull it again once I get back to the marina and if it's going to be that intense, I might as well pull the shaft completely and do the cutless, too. Maybe I'll add a flex coupling while I'm at it. Love how a $22.88 piece of nitrile rubber may cost me a fortune! I still love my boat!

Where's you get the puller? The ones I saw are kits for multiple sizes.
The rudder does have to be dropped to pull the shaft, but the cutlas bearing can be changed without pulling the shaft. Most marine service shops have the right equipment to do this. Good luck with the coupling. Soaking it in PB Blaster or something wouldn't hurt.
 

gpd955

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Feb 22, 2006
1,164
Catalina 310 Cape May, NJ
I used the Strut Pro in the past to change out the cutless bearing which allows for the change without pulling the shaft. I just figure if I'm going through all that other work, might as well do it all. The cutless is fine now but I don't know when the PO put this one on or if it's the original.
 
Mar 6, 2008
709
Catalina 1999 C36 MKII #1787 Coyote Point Marina, CA.
Shaft coupling removal

The stuffing box rubber tube needed to replaced and new flax needed to be installed. I was sure that I could remove the shaft from the coupling and replace the stuffing box and hose. While on the hard I designed and fabricated this coupling removal. It fit well and I was ready to pull the shaft. Then I found myself with 2 sheared off coupling screws. The yard told me that the screws can easily be drilled out. However after I wore out $100.00 of drill bits and 8 hours of drilling I decided to cut the propeller shaft and replace it. Yes the rudder had to be removed as well.
Take my advice - while on the hard cut the shaft with a hack saw and remove the shaft. Have the cutlass replaced and buy new shaft and coupling and stuffing box. It is the least expensive way to go. Best of luck.
 

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Feb 6, 1998
11,454
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
The stuffing box rubber tube needed to replaced and new flax needed to be installed. I was sure that I could remove the shaft from the coupling and replace the stuffing box and hose. While on the hard I designed and fabricated this coupling removal. It fit well and I was ready to pull the shaft. Then I found myself with 2 sheared off coupling screws. The yard told me that the screws can easily be drilled out. However after I wore out $100.00 of drill bits and 8 hours of drilling I decided to cut the propeller shaft and replace it. Yes the rudder had to be removed as well.
Take my advice - while on the hard cut the shaft with a hack saw and remove the shaft. Have the cutlass replaced and buy new shaft and coupling and stuffing box. It is the least expensive way to go.
Best of luck.
Words of wisdom here guys!!! Plus the OP has a bronze shaft (really a brass) and replacing with an Aquamet 22 shaft is the way to go...
 

Gary_H

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Nov 5, 2007
469
Cal 2-25 Carolina Beach NC
Looks like you have the same problem I had, not enough room to put a shaft puller. Believe me that shaft is just not going to pop out. it took me two days of cussing to get mine out using extended coupling bolts washers and a shaft sized socket to get it off. I too had a bronze shaft, replaced it with stainless steel. Had I originally intended to get a new shaft I probably would have just cut it in front of the coupler and pushed the stub out of the coupler at home with good tools.
 

gpd955

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Feb 22, 2006
1,164
Catalina 310 Cape May, NJ
I'm leaning toward a full replacement now since it's going to be a decent amount of work. The price of the Aquamet 22 was not a bad as I thought and neither was a new coupling. Probably will invest in the spare lip seal carrier from Sure Seal so when the new one goes, I won't have to remove anything. It's going to have to wait a few months though since my unchangeable splash date is 4-5. I think I can put up with the dripping for a little while!

Thanks for everyone's input. I was driving myself insane and am feeling much better now!
 
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