questions on work on my 1974 catalina 22

Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Hi everyone,
people have been so helpful here i thought i would ask more questions. I am repainting my new 1974 catalina 22. I removed all harware that I suspected of leaking. I also removed the portlights and am putting new gaskets in the frame. I am redoing the electic and making a new dinette as well as make a portable galley and replacing the wood trim with plastic (i know, don't say it!). below is a video of where i am at. Also, below are my questions.

1. i have read that when you rebed the hardware one needs to fill the original holes with epoxy and then drill it out in order to "seal" the plywood in. Do i do that before or after painting the deck?
2. In the photo below you can tell that there is a white strip in between the bottom of the boat (red) and the topside (blue). I want to paint over that. Do I bring up the bottom paint to that or bring down the blue paint to it?
3. the bow of the boat had many bolts related to the roller furling attachment and the front rail (pardon the lack of terms). The "chain plate" for all this hardware was made of thick hard plastic, is there any reason I cannot make a new one out of metal?
4. When i took out of the port lights I could tell that some of the fiberglass came "detached" or "de-laminated" from the plywood. Does that need repair or could I just "sandwich" it together when I put the port lights back in?
5. I am going to clean the whole boat before I start the process of prepping for paint. I do not have water access where it is. Any other suggestions for a cleaning product to clean the bottom and remove the "green" from the deck?

Link to above mentioned video

Thanks!
 

Attachments

Jan 11, 2014
13,112
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
1. i have read that when you rebed the hardware one needs to fill the original holes with epoxy and then drill it out in order to "seal" the plywood in. Do i do that before or after painting the deck?
Makes more sense to do that before painting, you won't have to be as careful with the epoxy and sanding it smooth.

2. In the photo below you can tell that there is a white strip in between the bottom of the boat (red) and the topside (blue). I want to paint over that. Do I bring up the bottom paint to that or bring down the blue paint to it?
Fielder's Choice on that. If the boat is heavier than design weight the waterline will be higher. Perhaps split the difference.

3. the bow of the boat had many bolts related to the roller furling attachment and the front rail (pardon the lack of terms). The "chain plate" for all this hardware was made of thick hard plastic, is there any reason I cannot make a new one out of metal?
A photo of the area would be helpful. However, making one out of Stainless Steel is probably reasonable.

4. When i took out of the port lights I could tell that some of the fiberglass came "detached" or "de-laminated" from the plywood. Does that need repair or could I just "sandwich" it together when I put the port lights back in?
I wouldn't go crazy on this. Fill in the voids with some thickened epoxy. It might need a clamp or two to squeeze the part together if the frame doesn't fit.

5. I am going to clean the whole boat before I start the process of prepping for paint. I do not have water access where it is. Any other suggestions for a cleaning product to clean the bottom and remove the "green" from the deck?
Not really. Tow the boat to a self-service car wash and use the pressure washer. Bring a lot of quarters.
 
  • Like
Likes: jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,505
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
:plus: Well said Dave.

@Erbardy Nice looking boat. Sounds like you have your winter projects lined up.
I’d repair, epoxy, paint, then reinstall.

Since your. Going to be doing all of this refurbishment, I might just go all the way and remove the remaining hardware. It would be a nasty to get the boat looking great only to have a piece of hardware that you did not remove and replace start to let water intrude.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,663
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I did a similar restoration on a Mac 22. Like @jssailem said... I'd remove all of the hardware before painting. Rebed all hardware with butyl tape. Fill in any holes you don't need anymore and I'd recommend you bring the bottom paint up instead of the topsides down.

Here is are some pics of my Mac 22 before I reinstalled all of the hardware.... and a before shot
 

Attachments

Mr Fox

.
Aug 31, 2017
204
Marshall 22 Portland, ME
You should grab Don Casey's book This Old Boat- the pun is well applied, dude's the Bob Villa of the sailboat world.

For the old mounting points that were leaking on the bow (and all of them actually) you should inspect the wood core of the deck carefully. You can remove any rotten wood with an allen key in the end of a drill without harming the deck skin, fill the voids with epoxy, then drill out and paint.*

Looks like you're off to a great start, what a fun project. Keep us posted with your progress :)

edit- I don't know this boat and I'm assuming it has a wood core on the foredeck- obviously ignore my advice about the wood core if it doesn't have one...
 
Last edited:
May 23, 2016
1,024
Catalina 22 #12502 BSC
Welcome to the club! ...for cleaning, look into oxalic acid powder, mix as directed with warm water, you can buy a lifetime supply on line for 12 bucks (amazon)...swab it on let it sit, 5 min swab/hose off, done. Scrub a bit if needed. amazing stuff, keep off metal parts & trailer, wear rubber gloves & eye protection.

Some others here swear by a product called "30 Seconds" for general cleaning, available at home centers...

Suggest you head over to the C22 specific forum for more help on your journey!

Cheers!
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Powdered Oxalic acid is sold as "wood bleach" in many places that sell paints. Our local Ace hardware carries it as does Walmart and Home Depot. I keep a can aboard for washing the "waterway frown" away from the hull. Diluted in water gives you the exact same thing as Barkeepers Friend, but much cheaper :)
 
  • Like
Likes: rpludwig
Jan 19, 2010
12,663
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Diluted in water gives you the exact same thing as Barkeepers Friend, but much cheaper :)
:plus:
Yep! Barkeepers is oxalic mixed with some buffing grit. Barkeepers is great for getting cleaning off that brown "ring" that forms right at the water line.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
As with any trailered load, put at least TWO straps on it. How many times do you see one strap on the road?