Questions for work on my new Catalina 22

Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
I bought a new catalina 22. I am doing a fair amount of work on it. I would like to ask some questions on advise. See below what i have, and what i am going to do and questions i have. Any feedback from experienced sailors is welcome for answers to the questions or advise on what I am going to do. I appreciate you guys and thank you in advance!

what I have done.
1. Removed all the hardware
2. Rewired the whole boat.
3. Removed portlights and put on new gaskets on the frame.
4. Prepped for paint by removing all silicone and adhesive from fittings and portlights followed by sanding to scuff the surface up for painting.

Things i am going to do and aim to finish by end of May
1. Repair a scuff on the boat and my sliding hatch with 3m premium marine filler.
2. Paint whole boat top and down.
3. Rebed the hardware with bytle tape and use adhesive for heavy load bearing hardware.

Questions.
1. before rebedding the hardware i was told to fill all the bolt/screw holes with epoxy.
a. Should i do that with six10?
b. Also, should I fill the holes before or after painting?
2. is lattice pinewood okay to use as trim for inside a cabin?

That's it for now. I may come up up with a lot more questions.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,322
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
1. before rebedding the hardware i was told to fill all the bolt/screw holes with epoxy.
a. Should i do that with six10?
Almost. First drill them oversize. If the bolt is ¼" use a ⅜" drill. Remove some of the core around the hole. Seal the bottom with tape. Now fill with SixTen or similar product there are several. While filling, take a toothpick a thin piece of wire or something similar and pop the air bubbles that will form. See this article:


Whatever you do, do not use an adhesive like 5200. Someday someone may want to remove that hardware, and you will be condemned to deepest levels of Dante's Inferno. Remember that someone might just be you. ;)

Fill the holes and then paint.

Good Luck, send pictures.
 
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Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Almost. First drill them oversize. If the bolt is ¼" use a ⅜" drill. Remove some of the core around the hole. Seal the bottom with tape. Now fill with SixTen or similar product there are several. While filling, take a toothpick a thin piece of wire or something similar and pop the air bubbles that will form. See this article:


Whatever you do, do not use an adhesive like 5200. Someday someone may want to remove that hardware, and you will be condemned to deepest levels of Dante's Inferno. Remember that someone might just be you. ;)

Fill the holes and then paint.

Good Luck, send pictures.
Thanks for your quick reply. I did read not to rebed with 5200. I am sticking with bytle tape and in some areas I bought 4000.

I do have another qeustion for you. SOme of the hardware had a backplate to it made from nylon. Such as the brace on the bow of the boat for the roller furling. Can I replace them with a metal backplate?
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,322
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Thanks for your quick reply. I did read not to rebed with 5200. I am sticking with bytle tape and in some areas I bought 4000.

I do have another qeustion for you. SOme of the hardware had a backplate to it made from nylon. Such as the brace on the bow of the boat for the roller furling. Can I replace them with a metal backplate?
Yes, watch out for compatibility issues, aluminum and SS often wed in a corrosive mix that is difficult to undo. For a boat your size, double thick SS fender washers are a good choice. You can get them at BoltDepot.com. They have a wide selection of fasteners and they have quick affordable shipping. I ordered some on last Sunday, had them on Wednesday. Its a small family business that will benefit from our support.
 
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AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
723
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
Thanks for your quick reply. I did read not to rebed with 5200. I am sticking with bytle tape and in some areas I bought 4000.

I do have another qeustion for you. SOme of the hardware had a backplate to it made from nylon. Such as the brace on the bow of the boat for the roller furling. Can I replace them with a metal backplate?
@thinwater tested backing plates at Backing Plate Testing (some of that was eventually published in Practical Sailor, but his blog post covers most of it).

1/4" fiberglass or G10 (bonded to the interior fiberglass) is a good bet for most everything on our C-22s, and you don't have to worry about bimetallic corrosion.
 
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Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
@thinwater tested backing plates at Backing Plate Testing (some of that was eventually published in Practical Sailor, but his blog post covers most of it).

1/4" fiberglass or G10 (bonded to the interior fiberglass) is a good bet for most everything on our C-22s, and you don't have to worry about bimetallic corrosion.
thanks for the link to the article. I read that it is not good to use fender washers. does that go for extra thick fender washers as well?
 

AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
723
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
thanks for the link to the article. I read that it is not good to use fender washers. does that go for extra thick fender washers as well?
Drew (@thinwater) said 'extra thick' from boltdepot.com are OK (and I trust his testing). That must be these. I don't see that they have extra-thick in 316 stainless, but 18-8 / 304 SS should be fine inside the boat.
 
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Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Drew (@thinwater) said 'extra thick' from boltdepot.com are OK (and I trust his testing). That must be these. I don't see that they have extra-thick in 316 stainless, but 18-8 / 304 SS should be fine inside the boat.
that is what i understood as well. thanks so much!!!
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Drew (@thinwater) said 'extra thick' from boltdepot.com are OK (and I trust his testing). That must be these. I don't see that they have extra-thick in 316 stainless, but 18-8 / 304 SS should be fine inside the boat.
I have another question. I am just starting now to get into finalizing my steps before painting. Like I said in one of my earlier posts one of the things that I want to do is to drill out the holes from the old hardware fill it with Expoxy and then re-bed after painting. My question is do I handle the hardware holes from bolts the same way that I do with ones that had screws? What about for hardware such as the slide rails that are fastened by drilling from inside the cabin?Some of the areas where I had screws I cannot reach underneath. See picturesbelow for examples of where I had bolts and screws.
 

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Jan 11, 2014
11,322
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
I have another question. I am just starting now to get into finalizing my steps before painting. Like I said in one of my earlier posts one of the things that I want to do is to drill out the holes from the old hardware fill it with Expoxy and then re-bed after painting. My question is do I handle the hardware holes from bolts the same way that I do with ones that had screws? What about for hardware such as the slide rails that are fastened by drilling from inside the cabin?Some of the areas where I had screws I cannot reach underneath. See picturesbelow for examples of where I had bolts and screws.
Yes, handle them the same way. If you can't reach them from the inside or or out, well, you can't reach them. You might try a right angle drill attachment to reach them.

On an older boat, don't let the good be the enemy of perfect. ;)
 
Oct 29, 2012
346
Catalina 30 TRBS MkII Milwaukee
Just one question as to re-drilling and epoxy to bolt holes. We did a similar project on my buddy's boat two years ago, There was evidence of water getting in places such as a chain-plate or pad eye, even one of the stanchion bolt holes, but where things were found to be sound and stable we left alone. While it is good to be proactive, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And whatever you are going to repair, by all means do it before painting.
The prep is usually more of a pain then the actual application. Also Butyl tape is great for many things, bedding compound or a poly-sulfide may be a better product for some deck hardware
 
Last edited:
Sep 14, 2014
1,251
Catalina 22 Pensacola, Florida
Erbardy you should post on the catalina 22 threads forum, besides lots of your questions can be found on my and other threads there.
 
Aug 2, 2014
28
MacGregor 26C Stuart FL
Congratulations on your new 2U. Very fun boats. We renovated one over several years.
Lot of good advice above. I'll only add that when you oversize your bolt holes
you don't want to oversize the outer skin. Where we couldn't access the back for drilling we used a carbide
burr bit on a dremel to remove some wood from the front.
"Do it right, do it once"

Wasn't totally clear if you were speaking of the trailer bow eye having a plastic backing.
This is the upgrade over original wood and helps displace stress load.
We bedded ours in poly res for a best fit.

Lastly, most if not all of the teak trim for the C22 is available from Catalina Direct .com
but on the interior, out of the weather, most anything will do.
 

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Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Almost. First drill them oversize. If the bolt is ¼" use a ⅜" drill. Remove some of the core around the hole. Seal the bottom with tape. Now fill with SixTen or similar product there are several. While filling, take a toothpick a thin piece of wire or something similar and pop the air bubbles that will form. See this article:


Whatever you do, do not use an adhesive like 5200. Someday someone may want to remove that hardware, and you will be condemned to deepest levels of Dante's Inferno. Remember that someone might just be you. ;)

Fill the holes and then paint.

Good Luck, send pictures.
Hi. Thanks for the helpful Links. I just wanted to ask. I bought the following G-10 board to use as under the deck reinforcement for the hardware. It is a G-10 phenolic Sheet (g10 glass phenolic plastic sheet). Please see attached pic. Is this correct? I am asking because it feels like glass....
 

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Jan 11, 2014
11,322
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Hi. Thanks for the helpful Links. I just wanted to ask. I bought the following G-10 board to use as under the deck reinforcement for the hardware. It is a G-10 phenolic Sheet (g10 glass phenolic plastic sheet). Please see attached pic. Is this correct? I am asking because it feels like glass....
No, G-10 is a fiberglass epoxy laminate formed under pressure, so it has a high density and strength.

 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
No, G-10 is a fiberglass epoxy laminate formed under pressure, so it has a high density and strength.

Hi. Thanks for the reply. I am learning a lot along the way. i thought that is what i bought. Here is the link to the ebay purchase that I made. If it is not correct I can put it aside no problem.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,322
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Assuming the eBay seller is honest, the description says it is "HAZARDS: G 10 Glass phenolic is made by stacking layers of glass cloth, soaking them in an epoxy resin,"
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Assuming the eBay seller is honest, the description says it is "HAZARDS: G 10 Glass phenolic is made by stacking layers of glass cloth, soaking them in an epoxy resin,"
Hi. Yes, that is what I saw and why I purchased it. IT should be the correct material as far as I can tell. I have never handled this before, so i was expecting something that felt with a resin plastic, but this stuff is hard as nails and sounds like glass. I guess i could try to break one and see.