Protecting the mast light connector and VHF connector

[dyelaine]

The mast light connector and the VHF antenna connector on my C-22 are both located near the base of my mast on the fore side of the mast. When I bought the boat, both connectors had been damaged by people stepping on them. It's easy to do when putting on the main sail cover or doing any other task on the fore side of the mast.

I'm replacing both connectors, but I would like to make some kind of frame or cage that protects the connectors from being stepped on.

Has anyone built something similar? Or is there something out there that can be bought?

One worry I have is that the foresail sheets will snag on the contraption during a tack.

Here's a rough sketch of what I have in mind ...

 

[Jacktar]

Just rain the crew captain!

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Can’t run cables through the mast step and put connectors inside protected from weather? Alternatively, use right angle connectors placed flush with the deck.

What you depicted looks like a tripping hazard.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

A few options...

Or just put some spikes around the connector

 

[dyelaine]

Thanks for the suggestions and the warning about tripping. The right-hand turn is a good idea and would keep a lower profile, but I can't use a permanent wiring arrangement. I have to be able to plug and unplug the connector when the mast comes down in the fall and goes up in the spring because the boat gets stored on a trailer with the mast lying on the bow and stern pulpits. The connector sticks up about 1.5 inches and has a wire coming out of the top, so it's already somewhat of a tripping hazard. (See the picture.)

Storing the connector inside the mast seems like a good idea, but the hole for the wire into the mast is quite small. I would have to find a connector small enough to fit through the hole. I doubt that anything with four pins will be small enough. I could screw the flanged end of the connector onto the side of the mast. That would at least get it up off the deck. I'll need a right-hand cover like Project Mayhem suggested coming out of the deck.

Something like this:

Any thoughts?

 

[dlochner]

The tripping hazard could be minimized by moving the wire and connectors to the aft side of the mast. As a bonus, jib sheets won't hang up on it.

Consider using Deutsch Connectors and a cable gland like the one on the lower right of @Project_Mayhem's post. Deutsch connectors are water proof.

https://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connectors/

 

[Project_Mayhem]

If placing the connector on the aft side of the mast, the height should be considered so it doesnt interfere with stepping of the mast. Not likely to be an issue but it is possible

 

[dlochner]

If placing the connector on the aft side of the mast, the height should be considered so it doesnt interfere with stepping of the mast. Not likely to be an issue but it is possible

Placing it directly aft of the mast may cause that issue, moving slightly off to the side and aft of the mast eliminates that concern.

 

[Gene Neill]

I have racked my brain on this issue for ages. The only solution I have ever found is ... don't step on the wiring. It takes years to learn, but it does work when you finally figure it out.

Side note. In my most recent re-wiring project, I finally gave up on four-pin connectors like the one in your pic. It seems dumb the way the female side always faces up, where it inevitably collects water and rapidly corrodes. This time I used trailer-style wiring connectors, the beefiest I could find, and a cable gland to pass the wire through. It's still pretty new, but I like it so far.

 

[Jacktar]

Situational awareness, watch where you step is vital on boats, and one hand for you and one for the boat is also vital.

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

Situational awareness, watch where you step is vital on boats, and one hand for you and one for the boat is also vital.

I believe you missed a "step". lol

George

 

[JRacer]

My boat originally had the wiring coming out through a hole in the front of the mast and connecting to connectors that were mounted to the fiberglass "bump" in front of the mast. Always leaked and were not ideal. I elected to expand the hole that the wires ran through in the mast base, made a copper tube that was taller than the sides of the mast base so in case water pooled up in the mast base it could not overtop the copper pipe. 5200'd the copper pipe in place as a conduit for the wires to run down into the boat and sealed up the top of that after running the wires. Used automotive "weatherpack" waterproof connectors. Then I glassed and faired the places where the old connectors ran through the "bump" in front of the mast. Now all my electrical wiring going up the mast is run inside the mast. Should have done the same with the VHF and TV antenna wires. Pics attached.

 

[AaronD]

...This time I used trailer-style wiring connectors, the beefiest I could find, and a cable gland to pass the wire through...

I've been using a 4-pin (and the same Scanstrut through-deck gland) for years with no complaints. If the boat is going to be in the water for awhile, I sometimes heat-shrink the connection or wrap it with self-amalgamating tape (and cut it off at the end of the season). But most years I don't even bother with that.

 

[dyelaine]

J Racer's system (through the mast mount) would definitely solve the problem. I have a VHF cable to deal with as well. It looks like your mast gets set on your boat. Mine is attached with a pin and gets raised. If the cable is inside the mast mount, it might be prone to getting pinched as the mast raises. I usually raise the mast double-handed and find that both people have plenty to do without worrying about pinching the wire. The problem is solved if I can recruit another helper.

I looked at the Scanstrut glands. I think Gene Neill shows one in his picture. Scanstrut makes some "horizontal" glands that would be flatter and would turn the wire to run along the deck. It would work well for the second design I drew above.

If I stick with the standard deck-mounted connector, I wonder if I can use heat-shrink tubing and go right over the top of the connector to prevent water ingress. AaronD's idea about self-amalgamating tape also seems worth a try.

As usual, you all have given me lots to think about. Thanks!