Oh boy! Yesterday going out of the harbor I experienced a vibration going foward at about 2500 RPM. After shutting down the engine, under sail at about 3 knots,I looked into the engine compartment to see the shaft turning with the transmission in neutral. I could hear and see the shaft turning(it was vibrating as it turned). Going underwater and looking at the propeller shaft proved what I suspected. I was able to grasp the propeller and shake it from side to side and up and down. Which leads me to my question... Is this a bad cutlass bearing? Does the boat have to come out of the water to replace a bad bearing. This problem has not been noticed prior to yesterday.
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Don Riha
Sounds correct
Assuming the prop shaft was moving and not the propeller would indicate a worn bearing. I never heard of replacing a cutlass bearing with the boat in the water. Check engine alignment while doing repairs it may have caused the bearing wear. Check the prop shaft rigidity each year when the boat is hauled out. May alert you to potential problems.
Assuming the prop shaft was moving and not the propeller would indicate a worn bearing. I never heard of replacing a cutlass bearing with the boat in the water. Check engine alignment while doing repairs it may have caused the bearing wear. Check the prop shaft rigidity each year when the boat is hauled out. May alert you to potential problems.
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Tim
cutless bearing
Is your's a pre-1983 vinage H30 as is mine? Here's the procedure: -boat's gotta be hauled -remove the cotter pin/prop nut/prop -remove the bearing strut from the boat and the shaft by unscrewing the big philipps screws and backing nuts (this may require some headstanding under the wheel quadrant) and peeling the strut off of whatever sealant is between it and the hull -remove the bearing from the strut by making 4 careful cuts with a hacksaw just through the edge of the bearing and knock the pieces out with a chisel after loosening the locking nut -carefully press the new bearing into the strut. I use a benchtop vise and slowly press it in. -re-install on the boat all the pieces using the underwater sealant of your choice. It requires 2 people to tightent the nuts: one inside and one outside. The inside person must have long arms bo non-claustrophobic.
Is your's a pre-1983 vinage H30 as is mine? Here's the procedure: -boat's gotta be hauled -remove the cotter pin/prop nut/prop -remove the bearing strut from the boat and the shaft by unscrewing the big philipps screws and backing nuts (this may require some headstanding under the wheel quadrant) and peeling the strut off of whatever sealant is between it and the hull -remove the bearing from the strut by making 4 careful cuts with a hacksaw just through the edge of the bearing and knock the pieces out with a chisel after loosening the locking nut -carefully press the new bearing into the strut. I use a benchtop vise and slowly press it in. -re-install on the boat all the pieces using the underwater sealant of your choice. It requires 2 people to tightent the nuts: one inside and one outside. The inside person must have long arms bo non-claustrophobic.
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Barry
Other stuff to Check
Worn cutlass bearing are frequently cause by engine mis-alignment. Be sure to check this especially if you install a new bearing. Proper alignment may even quiet down a worn bearing. Check to see that the shaft isn't bent - Spin it any you can see if it's damaged. This has been known to happen in the travel lift. Some yards have a tool that allows them to press the bearing out while the strut and shart are on the boat. The just have to remove the prop. In many cases this is difficult. I chose to remove the shaft (I already had the rudder off) and cut the bearing out of the strut with the strut on the boat. I used a threaded rod and several big washer to press the new bearing back in the strut. Barry s/v PER DIEM too
Worn cutlass bearing are frequently cause by engine mis-alignment. Be sure to check this especially if you install a new bearing. Proper alignment may even quiet down a worn bearing. Check to see that the shaft isn't bent - Spin it any you can see if it's damaged. This has been known to happen in the travel lift. Some yards have a tool that allows them to press the bearing out while the strut and shart are on the boat. The just have to remove the prop. In many cases this is difficult. I chose to remove the shaft (I already had the rudder off) and cut the bearing out of the strut with the strut on the boat. I used a threaded rod and several big washer to press the new bearing back in the strut. Barry s/v PER DIEM too
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Dan Geltmacher
what about?
Guys thanks for your help. I'm a diver is it possible to pull the strut off while shes still in the water. I don't know but if all I gotta do is unscrew four screws and break it away why can't I plug the holes do some bailing, then go topside and replace the bearing. Then do my underwater thing and be done. To haul her, I gotta sail all the way around to Honolulu. I'm on the windward side 20+ hours sailing time. Plus run the engine on a bad bearing to get in and out of harbor... Help! hawaii dan
Guys thanks for your help. I'm a diver is it possible to pull the strut off while shes still in the water. I don't know but if all I gotta do is unscrew four screws and break it away why can't I plug the holes do some bailing, then go topside and replace the bearing. Then do my underwater thing and be done. To haul her, I gotta sail all the way around to Honolulu. I'm on the windward side 20+ hours sailing time. Plus run the engine on a bad bearing to get in and out of harbor... Help! hawaii dan
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red coles
carreenng
What are the tidal ranges in Hawaii? Can you lean her against a dock at low tide and do your work? If tide is greater than 4 feet, I would think this is possible. Good luck red
What are the tidal ranges in Hawaii? Can you lean her against a dock at low tide and do your work? If tide is greater than 4 feet, I would think this is possible. Good luck red
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terry d
think about it
Having just replaced this assembly _bought the boat in this condition. I think that underwater could work if everything else was ok. BUT - I found a whole bunch of other problems with the original brass shaft and alignment. I would suggest that this is the time for a new stainless shaft, and maybe a good time to install the new pss shaft seal you always wanted. If it is shaking like you say I would expect that the shaft is likely bent from the operation with a bad cutlass bearing. There is not a lot of rubber surface in the cutlass used in a 30, so what you experienced could be that it finally wore through and actually tore out what rubber was left. Hate to see you go through all that work and end up the same place_ Although it would be fun to watch_ besides the six screw holes and associated backer plate there is a problem that in the removal of the cutlass strut will leave your shaft cantilevered on the exit tube and packing gland_ not good. Better be ready to plug that with something or you might be doing more bailing then you bargained for.
Having just replaced this assembly _bought the boat in this condition. I think that underwater could work if everything else was ok. BUT - I found a whole bunch of other problems with the original brass shaft and alignment. I would suggest that this is the time for a new stainless shaft, and maybe a good time to install the new pss shaft seal you always wanted. If it is shaking like you say I would expect that the shaft is likely bent from the operation with a bad cutlass bearing. There is not a lot of rubber surface in the cutlass used in a 30, so what you experienced could be that it finally wore through and actually tore out what rubber was left. Hate to see you go through all that work and end up the same place_ Although it would be fun to watch_ besides the six screw holes and associated backer plate there is a problem that in the removal of the cutlass strut will leave your shaft cantilevered on the exit tube and packing gland_ not good. Better be ready to plug that with something or you might be doing more bailing then you bargained for.
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Dan Geltmacher
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