I have a bent prop shaft, how do I go about removing it. I have to replace prop strut as well so rudder removal is not a problem, lots of room to manouver past it. Sure isn't much room to play with in the engine compartment.
- Status
Drop the rudder?
We had to drop the rudder to get our shaft out. But with the strut off. you can probably shift it to the side to get it past the rudder. Dropping the rudder was not hard. The only issue was getting the clearance to get it out of the hull. A lift, or a hole in the ground under the rudder are the two standard solutions. We used a lift on ours, with the help of our yard. Otherwise, Ed's comments are correct for the h27, as well as his h37c. David Lady Lillie
We had to drop the rudder to get our shaft out. But with the strut off. you can probably shift it to the side to get it past the rudder. Dropping the rudder was not hard. The only issue was getting the clearance to get it out of the hull. A lift, or a hole in the ground under the rudder are the two standard solutions. We used a lift on ours, with the help of our yard. Otherwise, Ed's comments are correct for the h27, as well as his h37c. David Lady Lillie
Karl, why not lift the engine?
Here's my logic for suggesting lifting the engine - you have to keep in mind that once you get the new shaft and strut in place, the engine will have to be aligned. So save your self the trouble of dropping the rudder if you cant get the old shaft out or new shaft in. If you have the Renault engine, the flange on the shaft is simple to remove. Loosen the bolts on either side of the shaft, then using a wrench plus an allen key, you can loosen the little stud in the middle that tightens onto the shaft. It should come off fairly easily. Manny
Here's my logic for suggesting lifting the engine - you have to keep in mind that once you get the new shaft and strut in place, the engine will have to be aligned. So save your self the trouble of dropping the rudder if you cant get the old shaft out or new shaft in. If you have the Renault engine, the flange on the shaft is simple to remove. Loosen the bolts on either side of the shaft, then using a wrench plus an allen key, you can loosen the little stud in the middle that tightens onto the shaft. It should come off fairly easily. Manny
2 more cents
Why remove the strut? I assume it must be bent or othewise damaged, because you can replace the bushing with it on the boat. I say this because would think it will make realignment more difficult. I might also consider having a gear or wheel puller on hand th get the coupler off. When I replace my motor i had to hacksaw the xx thing off. Randy
Why remove the strut? I assume it must be bent or othewise damaged, because you can replace the bushing with it on the boat. I say this because would think it will make realignment more difficult. I might also consider having a gear or wheel puller on hand th get the coupler off. When I replace my motor i had to hacksaw the xx thing off. Randy
Shaft Removal
Thanks for all the help guys. Now that I know what to loosen to remove the prop shaft I should be ok. The strut was broken in half and the shaft bent in a mooring line accident. The strut had apparently been broken and repaired previously which I didn't know when I purchased the boat. The boat is equipped with a Yanmar diesel. The strut was sealed with 5200 but I got it all off without much problem. I have the new strut from Dahmer. I removed the old nuts and bolts with the use of a very long socket extension, a ratchet, a battery powered impact gun and a magnet to pick up the loose pieces in the hull. I had to use a Dremel tool to grind off one bolt as the head on the bolt stripped out. The plan is to remove the shaft and have a machine shop examine it to see if it can be fixed and if so do so. If not I'll be having one made by the same shop or buying one. I'll have to have your advice on reallignment when I get the initial work out of the way. Thanks again and any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all the help guys. Now that I know what to loosen to remove the prop shaft I should be ok. The strut was broken in half and the shaft bent in a mooring line accident. The strut had apparently been broken and repaired previously which I didn't know when I purchased the boat. The boat is equipped with a Yanmar diesel. The strut was sealed with 5200 but I got it all off without much problem. I have the new strut from Dahmer. I removed the old nuts and bolts with the use of a very long socket extension, a ratchet, a battery powered impact gun and a magnet to pick up the loose pieces in the hull. I had to use a Dremel tool to grind off one bolt as the head on the bolt stripped out. The plan is to remove the shaft and have a machine shop examine it to see if it can be fixed and if so do so. If not I'll be having one made by the same shop or buying one. I'll have to have your advice on reallignment when I get the initial work out of the way. Thanks again and any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Magnet?
A magnet to pick up the pieces? That should not be possible. Those bolt ends, washers, and nuts should have been stainless. A magnet should ignore those pieces/parts. Make sure that you reinstall with stainless. A musing about the washers on the strut bolts. Should you use big heavy fender washers or, maybe, even a stainless plate to back the strut on the inside? I use fender washers. But then if I ever hit anything that rips the strut off the boat those bolt holes are going to be big!
A magnet to pick up the pieces? That should not be possible. Those bolt ends, washers, and nuts should have been stainless. A magnet should ignore those pieces/parts. Make sure that you reinstall with stainless. A musing about the washers on the strut bolts. Should you use big heavy fender washers or, maybe, even a stainless plate to back the strut on the inside? I use fender washers. But then if I ever hit anything that rips the strut off the boat those bolt holes are going to be big!
No zinc.
Is that your strut John? And with a zinc? No zinc on mine, just the one on the shaft and on the end of the prop as I see in your picture. Is that necessary on a bronze alloy strut?
Is that your strut John? And with a zinc? No zinc on mine, just the one on the shaft and on the end of the prop as I see in your picture. Is that necessary on a bronze alloy strut?
Karl Wilmot
Checked the boat today and there is a stainless backing plate on either side of the inside of the hull. My apoligizes on the magnet issue its been a long,cold winter up here and I guess my metal/magnet brain has become frosted over. The Dahmer site only shows two types of sailboat struts, mine was the V-Hull variety, the other looks more like Ed's picture of the strut on the 37, with varying degrees of shaft angle.
Checked the boat today and there is a stainless backing plate on either side of the inside of the hull. My apoligizes on the magnet issue its been a long,cold winter up here and I guess my metal/magnet brain has become frosted over. The Dahmer site only shows two types of sailboat struts, mine was the V-Hull variety, the other looks more like Ed's picture of the strut on the 37, with varying degrees of shaft angle.
Karl, it's not the cold.
It's from working upside down in our boats. All the blood rushes into the old brain and coagulates there I think. They are a bear to work on. Are you saying that the Dahmer vee hull strut does not match yours? I know that I have seen 'V' struts that were a lot different than the one in the Dahmer site. Maybe yours is like the one on the H30 in the Related Link.
It's from working upside down in our boats. All the blood rushes into the old brain and coagulates there I think. They are a bear to work on. Are you saying that the Dahmer vee hull strut does not match yours? I know that I have seen 'V' struts that were a lot different than the one in the Dahmer site. Maybe yours is like the one on the H30 in the Related Link.
Karl Wilmot
No Ed, mine is the part number that Dahmer now lists as a Part #2010, the old designation was Dahmer Marine H1. The strut in your related photo, where the new bearing is being pressed in, looks alot like the second type that Dahmer now sells in various shaft angles. If you look closely at your photo you can see the word Dahmer and below it the designation of the strut. And it is cold up here, believe me. We've stripped wood work off the boat last weekend, from the coach roof and sides and from the interior. Under the winter cover on deck it was fine with the sun's heat being trapped by the canopy but in the cabin it was a might chilly. Looking forward to a May 30th launch, that is if the river isn't still high at that time. Thanks again for the help and if you think of anything else I should know just put up a posting, I read this stuff all the time.
No Ed, mine is the part number that Dahmer now lists as a Part #2010, the old designation was Dahmer Marine H1. The strut in your related photo, where the new bearing is being pressed in, looks alot like the second type that Dahmer now sells in various shaft angles. If you look closely at your photo you can see the word Dahmer and below it the designation of the strut. And it is cold up here, believe me. We've stripped wood work off the boat last weekend, from the coach roof and sides and from the interior. Under the winter cover on deck it was fine with the sun's heat being trapped by the canopy but in the cabin it was a might chilly. Looking forward to a May 30th launch, that is if the river isn't still high at that time. Thanks again for the help and if you think of anything else I should know just put up a posting, I read this stuff all the time.
Strut Zinc
In answer to Ed's question, yes that is my boat and I do have a zinc on the strut. The reason there is a zinc there is because that is they way it was when we got the boat. As to whether it is really needed, I have consulted Calder (Boat owners mechanical and electrical manual) and done some internet research and cannot find anything that says yes, you must have it. However, if the cutless bearing is electrically conductive (contains imbedded metals)thereby connecting the strut to the prop shaft, or if the strut was bonded to some general ground, then it would absolutely be required. Without the foregoing the zinc would still be somewhat useful in inhibiting the stainless through hull bolts from attacking the bronze strut. It seems that in general we don't protect bronze (think of through hulls for example) but given the above I am going to continue to maintain the zincs on my strut. I wish I could be more cathodic on this issue. John Brecher
In answer to Ed's question, yes that is my boat and I do have a zinc on the strut. The reason there is a zinc there is because that is they way it was when we got the boat. As to whether it is really needed, I have consulted Calder (Boat owners mechanical and electrical manual) and done some internet research and cannot find anything that says yes, you must have it. However, if the cutless bearing is electrically conductive (contains imbedded metals)thereby connecting the strut to the prop shaft, or if the strut was bonded to some general ground, then it would absolutely be required. Without the foregoing the zinc would still be somewhat useful in inhibiting the stainless through hull bolts from attacking the bronze strut. It seems that in general we don't protect bronze (think of through hulls for example) but given the above I am going to continue to maintain the zincs on my strut. I wish I could be more cathodic on this issue. John Brecher
Karl
John, I guess my only question on the zinc would be was the structure of the bronze strut compromised by drilling a hole in it to attach the zinc. When I purchased the 27 last spring there were two zincs on the prop shaft and I was told by the previous owner that was all that were required. Tackling the shaft removal this weekend if the weather holds, hope all goes well.
John, I guess my only question on the zinc would be was the structure of the bronze strut compromised by drilling a hole in it to attach the zinc. When I purchased the 27 last spring there were two zincs on the prop shaft and I was told by the previous owner that was all that were required. Tackling the shaft removal this weekend if the weather holds, hope all goes well.
Cutlass bearing is non-conductive.
Or at least it should be. The shaft is not touching metal in the cutlass bearing. It runs in a rubbber bushing and therefore the strut is insulated. There should not be any electrical conductivity.
Or at least it should be. The shaft is not touching metal in the cutlass bearing. It runs in a rubbber bushing and therefore the strut is insulated. There should not be any electrical conductivity.
Karl
I sold my old Hunter 25 to a guy in St John,he keeps it just before the falls. Hope to make it up that way in my H27. I remember how i got that flange off the shaft. It was with a small right angle grinder. I had to split it in half. My shaft was true, but was bronze so I replaced it. Its in my barn if you want it.
I sold my old Hunter 25 to a guy in St John,he keeps it just before the falls. Hope to make it up that way in my H27. I remember how i got that flange off the shaft. It was with a small right angle grinder. I had to split it in half. My shaft was true, but was bronze so I replaced it. Its in my barn if you want it.
Karl
Thanks for the offer Randy, I may just take you up on that if the present shaft can't be straightened or a new one made up at a reasonable cost. A machinist who lives not far my place is quite good at fabrication and will take a crack at repair and replacement for me so we'll see. If you head our way this summer be sure to give us a call on the radio, our 27 is named Break Away, (long story from previous owner). We plan on doing some Maine coast cruising this summer so one way or the other may see you on the Bay or River. No joy on the weather here today so tomorrow is the first attempt atgetting the shaft out. Will advise as to the success of same.
Thanks for the offer Randy, I may just take you up on that if the present shaft can't be straightened or a new one made up at a reasonable cost. A machinist who lives not far my place is quite good at fabrication and will take a crack at repair and replacement for me so we'll see. If you head our way this summer be sure to give us a call on the radio, our 27 is named Break Away, (long story from previous owner). We plan on doing some Maine coast cruising this summer so one way or the other may see you on the Bay or River. No joy on the weather here today so tomorrow is the first attempt atgetting the shaft out. Will advise as to the success of same.
SIMPLE SHAFT REMOVAL
WELL AS EVERYONE ALREADY KNOWS IT CAN SOMETIMES BE A BITCH TO GET THE SHAFT OUT OF THE SHAFT SIDE OF THE COUPLING... I HAD THE PROBLEM SEVERAL YEARS AGO WHEN I CHANGED OUT MY ENGINE... NEW ENGINE COUPLING AND OLD SHAFT COUPLING DIDN'T MATCH... ANYWAY AFTER MUCH RESEARCH AND TALKING TO SEVERAL PEOPLE HERE IS THE EASY WAY TO DO IT.... 1) UNDO THE 3,4, OR 5 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE 2 HALVES OF THE COUPLING TOGETHER AND MOVE THE SHAFT BACK SOME...INSIDE THE COUPLING ON THE SHAFT SPRAY SOME PT BLASTER OR LIQUID WRENCH AND LIGHTLY TAP THE COULPLING SEVERAL TIMES 2)THEN REMOVE THE 1 OR 2 SET SCREWS THAT HOLD THE SHAFT TO THE COUPLING AND SPRAY LOTS OF LIQUID WRENCH OR PT BLASTER IN BOTH HOLES AND TAP THE COUPLING A FEW MORE TIMES WITH A HAMMER.... 3) WAIT 1 DAY AND SQUIRT SOME MORE STUFF IN THE HOLES AND THE END WHERE THE SHAFT IS INSIDE THE COUPLING... 4) NOW FIND A SOCKET FROM YOUR SOCKET SET THAT IS !SMALLER! THAN YOUR SHAFT SIZE... 5)GO TO THE LOCAL HARDWARE STORE !!!!!( NOT WEST MARINE)!!!!! AND BUY 3,4 OR 5 NUTS AND BOLTS THAT WILL FIT IN THE HOLES IN THE COUPLING... 6) NOW PLACE THE SOCKET BETWEEN THE COUPLING ON THE ENGINE AND THE COUPLING ON THE SHAFT RIGHT WHERE THE SHAFT IS AND BRING THE 2 HALVES OF THE COUPLING TOGETHER.. INSERT THE BOLTS AND NUTS IN THE HOLES IN BOTH COUPLINGS AND SNUG THEM DOWN TO HOLD THE SOCKET BETWEEN BOTH HALVES OF THE COUPLING AND PRESSING ON BOTH THE SHAFT AND THE OUTPUT OF THE ENGINE... 7)SNUG UP ALL THE BOLT TAKING ONE TURN ON EACH BOLT GOING AROUND THE COUPLING..DON'T GO FAST AND TAP THE COUPLING EACH TIME YOU THINK IT IS NECESSARY... IF IT DOESN'T START TO MOVE RIGHT AWAY LEAVE THE BOLTS EVENLY TIGHT ADD MORE LIQUID WRENCH AND A FEW MORE TAPS A GO HAVE A BEER... 8) IF THE SHAFT HASN'T BEEN OUT OF THE COUPLING FOREVER OR LONGER THIS COULD TAKE SEVERAL DAYS.... EACH DAY GO AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS EVENLY AROUND THE COUPLING, EVEN IF ONLY ONE TURN, AND IN MOST CASES IT WILL BREAK FREE.... DON'T TRY TO DO IT FAST OR YOU COULD WIND UP DISTORTING THE COUPLING ON THE ENGINE AND THAT'S A REAL PITA TO FIX.... GO SLOW AND I THINK 99% OF THE TIME IT WILL BREAK FREE AND BE PRESSED RIGHT OUT.. WORKED FOR ME AND THE COULPLING HAD NOT BEEN REMOVED IN 20+ YEARS NOW GO HAVE ANOTHER BEER AND THINK HOW MUCH MONEY YOU JUST SAVED BY NOT HAVING TO CUT AND REPLACE ANYTHING P.S. I HAD TO REPLACE AN ENGINE IN THE BOAT IN THE WATER AND DIDN'T WANT TO REPLACE THE SHAFT.... THIS IS HOW I DID IT AND IT WORKED WITHOUT A HITCH
WELL AS EVERYONE ALREADY KNOWS IT CAN SOMETIMES BE A BITCH TO GET THE SHAFT OUT OF THE SHAFT SIDE OF THE COUPLING... I HAD THE PROBLEM SEVERAL YEARS AGO WHEN I CHANGED OUT MY ENGINE... NEW ENGINE COUPLING AND OLD SHAFT COUPLING DIDN'T MATCH... ANYWAY AFTER MUCH RESEARCH AND TALKING TO SEVERAL PEOPLE HERE IS THE EASY WAY TO DO IT.... 1) UNDO THE 3,4, OR 5 BOLTS THAT HOLD THE 2 HALVES OF THE COUPLING TOGETHER AND MOVE THE SHAFT BACK SOME...INSIDE THE COUPLING ON THE SHAFT SPRAY SOME PT BLASTER OR LIQUID WRENCH AND LIGHTLY TAP THE COULPLING SEVERAL TIMES 2)THEN REMOVE THE 1 OR 2 SET SCREWS THAT HOLD THE SHAFT TO THE COUPLING AND SPRAY LOTS OF LIQUID WRENCH OR PT BLASTER IN BOTH HOLES AND TAP THE COUPLING A FEW MORE TIMES WITH A HAMMER.... 3) WAIT 1 DAY AND SQUIRT SOME MORE STUFF IN THE HOLES AND THE END WHERE THE SHAFT IS INSIDE THE COUPLING... 4) NOW FIND A SOCKET FROM YOUR SOCKET SET THAT IS !SMALLER! THAN YOUR SHAFT SIZE... 5)GO TO THE LOCAL HARDWARE STORE !!!!!( NOT WEST MARINE)!!!!! AND BUY 3,4 OR 5 NUTS AND BOLTS THAT WILL FIT IN THE HOLES IN THE COUPLING... 6) NOW PLACE THE SOCKET BETWEEN THE COUPLING ON THE ENGINE AND THE COUPLING ON THE SHAFT RIGHT WHERE THE SHAFT IS AND BRING THE 2 HALVES OF THE COUPLING TOGETHER.. INSERT THE BOLTS AND NUTS IN THE HOLES IN BOTH COUPLINGS AND SNUG THEM DOWN TO HOLD THE SOCKET BETWEEN BOTH HALVES OF THE COUPLING AND PRESSING ON BOTH THE SHAFT AND THE OUTPUT OF THE ENGINE... 7)SNUG UP ALL THE BOLT TAKING ONE TURN ON EACH BOLT GOING AROUND THE COUPLING..DON'T GO FAST AND TAP THE COUPLING EACH TIME YOU THINK IT IS NECESSARY... IF IT DOESN'T START TO MOVE RIGHT AWAY LEAVE THE BOLTS EVENLY TIGHT ADD MORE LIQUID WRENCH AND A FEW MORE TAPS A GO HAVE A BEER... 8) IF THE SHAFT HASN'T BEEN OUT OF THE COUPLING FOREVER OR LONGER THIS COULD TAKE SEVERAL DAYS.... EACH DAY GO AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS EVENLY AROUND THE COUPLING, EVEN IF ONLY ONE TURN, AND IN MOST CASES IT WILL BREAK FREE.... DON'T TRY TO DO IT FAST OR YOU COULD WIND UP DISTORTING THE COUPLING ON THE ENGINE AND THAT'S A REAL PITA TO FIX.... GO SLOW AND I THINK 99% OF THE TIME IT WILL BREAK FREE AND BE PRESSED RIGHT OUT.. WORKED FOR ME AND THE COULPLING HAD NOT BEEN REMOVED IN 20+ YEARS NOW GO HAVE ANOTHER BEER AND THINK HOW MUCH MONEY YOU JUST SAVED BY NOT HAVING TO CUT AND REPLACE ANYTHING P.S. I HAD TO REPLACE AN ENGINE IN THE BOAT IN THE WATER AND DIDN'T WANT TO REPLACE THE SHAFT.... THIS IS HOW I DID IT AND IT WORKED WITHOUT A HITCH
Shaft is out
Well good weather here and the shaft is out but not without much effort. Unfortunately, we had to lift the motor, but didn't take it out. After much effort at trying to free the shaft from the coupling, my Significant Others father who was diesel mechanic prior to retirement, look the situation over and stated we'd seperate the two coupling halves (which proved to be very easy)then lift the engine, tie it up and move the shaft into the cabin coupling and all. We disconnected the exhaust, took off the motor mount bolt, put some heavy line around the starboard front and port rear mounts and lifted the motor about four inches. Tied the line off to two 2x4's stretched across between the chart table and sink area, gave a push on the shaft from the stern and the whole issue slide out like a charm. According to dad alignment going back in should go just as smoothly. Now to get the shaft checked and if necessary replaced and put back in. New strut to go on the same day as shaft installation. Thanks again to everyone for your help.
Well good weather here and the shaft is out but not without much effort. Unfortunately, we had to lift the motor, but didn't take it out. After much effort at trying to free the shaft from the coupling, my Significant Others father who was diesel mechanic prior to retirement, look the situation over and stated we'd seperate the two coupling halves (which proved to be very easy)then lift the engine, tie it up and move the shaft into the cabin coupling and all. We disconnected the exhaust, took off the motor mount bolt, put some heavy line around the starboard front and port rear mounts and lifted the motor about four inches. Tied the line off to two 2x4's stretched across between the chart table and sink area, gave a push on the shaft from the stern and the whole issue slide out like a charm. According to dad alignment going back in should go just as smoothly. Now to get the shaft checked and if necessary replaced and put back in. New strut to go on the same day as shaft installation. Thanks again to everyone for your help.
Good job
Karl, I had the same problem. Sounds as if your going to replace everything from inside, so you won't have to drop the rudder. Alignment will not be difficult, just a little time consuming. You'll get lots of advice on using feeler gages to bring the halves of the coupling together. The real test is the free turning of the prop as you tighten every thing up. Be sure you take pictures. Good time to replace the hose for the stuffing box and repack the box. I know that you will double clamp both ends of that hose. I love the 27, still modifing the enterior. Phil in FL
Karl, I had the same problem. Sounds as if your going to replace everything from inside, so you won't have to drop the rudder. Alignment will not be difficult, just a little time consuming. You'll get lots of advice on using feeler gages to bring the halves of the coupling together. The real test is the free turning of the prop as you tighten every thing up. Be sure you take pictures. Good time to replace the hose for the stuffing box and repack the box. I know that you will double clamp both ends of that hose. I love the 27, still modifing the enterior. Phil in FL
- Status