prop and shaft pulling
- Thread starter letterman
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That style is the best. I used to have an Algonac which is the Cadillac model but it is now sitting on the bottom of the ocean thanks to a diver. I need to order a new one but they are not inexpensive...
Proper tool for the job notice the nut still on shaft.
photo courtesy of Nettle Props
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=22
Have you seen props stuck so bad that a 3 jaw puller like in your other pic, won't pull it?
What is superior about the specialized prop pullers?
[They make prop pullers for a reason. In a pinch a large three jaw gear puller can work on shafts up to about 1"..
I needed a shot of a three jaw gear puller (read inexpensive) that would pull most props up to about a 1" shaft but I forgot about the photo when I pulled the prop. After it was off I slid it back on for the pic but forgot the nut.I need to re-take that photo but ALWAYS mention it when talking about pulling a prop. No nut means potential stitches!! NEVER remove the nut completely when pulling a prop cause when it goes, it goes, POP!
DIY prop puller
Well a manly man would not even consider using a store bought puller . He would make one out of BIG bolts and nuts and some I-beam.
All you have to do is take a piece of I-beam that has a web dimension twice or more than the shaft diameter and cut a slot just large enough to pass the shaft. Cut the slot in the web only do not cut the flanges (top and bottom parts for you non-civil engineering girly men). This goes between the prop and the boat. Drill two holes in it at a distance from where the web will contact the shaft to just clear the prop hub. With a three blade you will have two holes on one side and one on the other to balance the load and clear the prop blades. Grab another piece of I-beam and drill matching holes in it. Also drill a hole "right in the center" so it lines up with the dimple in the end of the prop shaft. if you need to "span the slot" you cut to make the I-beam slide over the shaft use another smaller I-beam at right angles to the other. Grind the center bolt into a round to keep it in the shaft dimple.
Grab your box of big bolts, nuts and washers and put the sucker together around the shaft. Snug up everything so all contact surfaces (the web of the first I-beam) are not at an angle to the forward part of the prop where it contacts. Use nuts on each side of the web to make threaded fixtures. Washers are important to spread the load into the web. Use two nuts tightened not just one nut pulled tight for each hole in each web. This keeps the web from distorting as much.
Pray
Slowly turn the center bolt till it is "good-n-tight"
Pray some more (real manly men pray ALOT)
GENTLY rap your bronze hammer against the prop perpendicular to the shaft axis.
Re tighten the center bolt an 1/8 turn or so.
Repeat the rap and turn till "pop"
Thank who you were praying to.
Well a manly man would not even consider using a store bought puller . He would make one out of BIG bolts and nuts and some I-beam.
All you have to do is take a piece of I-beam that has a web dimension twice or more than the shaft diameter and cut a slot just large enough to pass the shaft. Cut the slot in the web only do not cut the flanges (top and bottom parts for you non-civil engineering girly men). This goes between the prop and the boat. Drill two holes in it at a distance from where the web will contact the shaft to just clear the prop hub. With a three blade you will have two holes on one side and one on the other to balance the load and clear the prop blades. Grab another piece of I-beam and drill matching holes in it. Also drill a hole "right in the center" so it lines up with the dimple in the end of the prop shaft. if you need to "span the slot" you cut to make the I-beam slide over the shaft use another smaller I-beam at right angles to the other. Grind the center bolt into a round to keep it in the shaft dimple.
Grab your box of big bolts, nuts and washers and put the sucker together around the shaft. Snug up everything so all contact surfaces (the web of the first I-beam) are not at an angle to the forward part of the prop where it contacts. Use nuts on each side of the web to make threaded fixtures. Washers are important to spread the load into the web. Use two nuts tightened not just one nut pulled tight for each hole in each web. This keeps the web from distorting as much.
Pray
Slowly turn the center bolt till it is "good-n-tight"
Pray some more (real manly men pray ALOT)
GENTLY rap your bronze hammer against the prop perpendicular to the shaft axis.
Re tighten the center bolt an 1/8 turn or so.
Repeat the rap and turn till "pop"
Thank who you were praying to.
"I needed a shot of a three jaw gear puller (read inexpensive) that would pull most props up to about a 1" shaft but I forgot about the photo when I pulled the prop. After it was off I slid it back on for the pic but forgot the nut.I need to re-take that photo but ALWAYS mention it when talking about pulling a prop. No nut means potential stitches!! NEVER remove the nut completely when pulling a prop cause when it goes, it goes, POP! "
OK Maine Sail
I will admit I was having a little fun at your expense ! ! Most times your "how to" descriptions and photo's are great ! So let me say thanks for your contributions and hard work that you do on this site ! !
However that being said I will tell you that the few times I have needed to remove the prop it is almost scary to think what would happen if the prop was not contained by the prop nut, They really do "pop" While I never have actually seen or know someone who got hurt doing this it is clear that it could very easily happen.
Don't know about in your area but any prop work ( OK only three times in my boating history) that I have done I was able to borrow a prop puller from either the yard or from the machine shop that worked on my prop. Both times they were a"free" loan. I will admit is an expensive tool with limited use unless you are a professional marine mechanic. I would think that for most people buying is not a good option and it might be just as cheap rather then buying a gear puller ( I have two gear pullers and can't remember when I last used them !)or a prop puller to pay yard to remove it . It literally only takes minutes and the puller is not needed to reinstall the prop. Sometimes spending a little is cheaper in the long run !
I need to re-take that photo but ALWAYS mention it when talking about pulling a prop. No nut means potential stitches!! NEVER remove the nut completely when pulling a prop cause when it goes, it goes, POP! "OK Maine Sail
I will admit I was having a little fun at your expense ! ! Most times your "how to" descriptions and photo's are great ! So let me say thanks for your contributions and hard work that you do on this site ! !
However that being said I will tell you that the few times I have needed to remove the prop it is almost scary to think what would happen if the prop was not contained by the prop nut, They really do "pop" While I never have actually seen or know someone who got hurt doing this it is clear that it could very easily happen.
Don't know about in your area but any prop work ( OK only three times in my boating history) that I have done I was able to borrow a prop puller from either the yard or from the machine shop that worked on my prop. Both times they were a"free" loan. I will admit is an expensive tool with limited use unless you are a professional marine mechanic. I would think that for most people buying is not a good option and it might be just as cheap rather then buying a gear puller ( I have two gear pullers and can't remember when I last used them !)or a prop puller to pay yard to remove it . It literally only takes minutes and the puller is not needed to reinstall the prop. Sometimes spending a little is cheaper in the long run !
Well someone has to buy them so the rest of us can barrow them. And then not return it, until the owner tracks you down and tries to be nice asking for their tool back because they are a good person but it also frustrated with the alarming consistency at which tools are not returned. When someone says 'can I barrow?', I counter with 'how about I help you?'
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