pour 1/16th inch of resin to firm up H260 wood flooring?

[Davenport]

Im a heavy guy and my old h260 creaks when I walk on the wood floor and it bounces too. So far I've homemade a plywood panel to step on right by the ladder which sorta helps.

Hmmmmmm. I've poured resin to patch holes and that's pretty solid. Has anyone heard of pouring resin to firm up a floor?? Not just a stain or a polyurethane, but a good 1/16th inch of resin to firm it up. Thanks.

P.S. If anyone wonders the aft hatch if you leave the bottom panel out can be slid thru, this lets one keep it locked but can leave out bottom panel for quick easy access. I also use the front hatch to slide out, while leaving boat locked and not having to hassle with 4 panels.

P.P.S. Is the h260 meant to be sailed with that 50 gallon front water tank filled, that's 800 pounds way up front that seems unhelpful.

Happy summer!!

 

[Siamese]

It'll just crack. Resin doesn't have much strength by itself. If you want to firm it up, use resin AND glass mat.

I received a little 14' daysailer from a friend. He had attempted to firm up the cockpit floor by pouring resin in it. Yup, it cracked like peanut brittle. What didn't crack and break away from the surface I removed with a chisel and a grinder.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

It'll just crack. Resin doesn't have much strength by itself. If you want to firm it up, use resin AND glass mat.

I received a little 14' daysailer from a friend. He had attempted to firm up the cockpit floor by pouring resin in it. Yup, it cracked like peanut brittle. What didn't crack and break away from the surface I removed with a chisel and a grinder.

 

[MikeHoncho]

double it up from the under side with plywood, screwed and epoxied. Laying epoxy over the top will not firm up the floor and will not only crack, it will crack then start seperating. If the flooring is plywood, the epoxy will not only separate from the existing floor but will pull up ply's of plywood with in in areas.

 

[twalker H260]

Is the floor soft when on the trailer or when in the water?
The cabin sole on the 260 is fairly thin and supported primarily by the top of the ballast tank - I believe with dollops of fibreglass filler material. - if you lift the access panels under the aft berth you can slide your phone in to get a photo of how it’s structured. On ours the sole is soft when on the trailer but firms up when in the water with the ballast tank filled and sealed. You might want to check that the gasket on the tank drain is in good shape, that the upper drain plug seals properly and that the seal/washer around the drain rod are all in good shape.
One other thing to check is to see if the issue is really just the plywood insert in the galley/head area or the underlying fibreglass structure. On our 2004 the original teak and holly ply had delaminated due to exposue at various times to rain water that entered via the compression post, companion way slider, opening ports etc or condensation that formed in the off season. We replaced ours with a vinyl laminate floor plank. You could likely replace the ply with slightly thicker ply. I believe the original is 1/4” or so.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

The floor pan is one solid piece which is recessed for a teak and holly sole or floor. The sole was glued down with liquid nails with a bead of Dow 795 between the lip of the sole and edge of the floor pan. If the bead was broken, water got beneath the teak and holly sole causing the sole to rot Later the sole was made out of composite materials. You would see water coming up from the bead.

However, if you hear a sloshing sound , then the marine putty between the floor pan and water ballast tank lid has broken needing tepairs