I nicely polished and coated these lenses with 3M UV wipes last spring, and they are already hazy (see pic). Is there a better way to UV protect these once polished? Or is it better to just shell out the ~$130 to replace them?
Polish and UV protect Beckson portlight lens? Or replace?
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
The polishing doesn't penetrate the acrylic. The surface microscopic cracks probabaly fill with wax during the polishing process and look good for a short time. They look good from afar but far from good.
Once you have replaced the lenses, he only way to "slow" the hazing process is to cover the lenses when they are not in use. I did this with three Lewmar lenses which I replaced a few years back.
This was early in the covering craze and eventually I covered all acrylic port and hatch lenses.
Below is an example of hazing taken to the extreme (UV damage) in a fixed portlight which looks more like the victim of a driveby shooting. At least it hasn't progressed any since covering it with the Sunbrella covers.
If only I had known this when I bought the boat knew in '98, I would have covered all of the the windows and wouldn't have had any UV damage problems to date.
Live and learn
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It's my understanding that after polishing well, you need to spray paint them with clear UV spray paint.
Something like Krylon Clear UV Resistant Acrylic spray paint. And you need to do several coats after polishing.
dj
One of my portlights has lot of little damage marks like this. Is there potential for leaks?The polishing doesn't penetrate the acrylic. The surface microscopic cracks probabaly fill with wax during the polishing process and look good for a short time. They look good from afar but far from good.
Once you have replaced the lenses, he only way to "slow" the hazing process is to cover the lenses when they are not in use. I did this with three Lewmar lenses which I replaced a few years back.
View attachment 238201
This was early in the covering craze and eventually I covered all acrylic port and hatch lenses.
Below is an example of hazing taken to the extreme (UV damage) in a fixed portlight which looks more like the victim of a driveby shooting. At least it hasn't progressed any since covering it with the Sunbrella covers.
View attachment 238203
If only I had known this when I bought the boat knew in '98, I would have covered all of the the windows and wouldn't have had any UV damage problems to date.
Live and learn
Not usually, but it depends upon how deep those cracks are penetrating. Nobody from a distance can really answer this question.
dj
There is an automobile product for hazy headlights. I think it's basically light compound and a polymer coating. I used it on my headlights. The results were pretty good but I traded that car in so I don't know about the longevity. I don't think it would work on the "Drive by shooting" scratches since it's really a surface treatment.
Close up, you can see the crack is the the full thickness of the acrylic.
For the sake of "just gotta know" I nailed the defect, close up, with a hose on "stream" and nary a drop of water on the inside SO FAR.
Thanks for the reminder because with my luck, it's going to leak at some time in the future so time to check it again. The reason I say that is because I have a condition known as "The Reverse Midas Touch." Everything I touch turns to
.
One caveat: I have been told by other long term boat owners (which is quite a bit more credible than "by the internet...") that covers block the UV, but another enemy is heat. UV is by far that major concern, but the plastic material also ages faster in intense summer heat.
One friend put a layer of insulation under his hatch covers, and as the years went by the hatch lens did look a little better than ours did. I still use covers, figuring that the material is, ultimately, sacrificial. I have had to replace various covers on the boat at about a 15 year rotation. "Sunbrella" certainly does resist the "sun" but not indefinitely.
One friend put a layer of insulation under his hatch covers, and as the years went by the hatch lens did look a little better than ours did. I still use covers, figuring that the material is, ultimately, sacrificial. I have had to replace various covers on the boat at about a 15 year rotation. "Sunbrella" certainly does resist the "sun" but not indefinitely.
Apparently,Close up, you can see the crack is the the full thickness of the acrylic.
For the sake of "just gotta know" I nailed the defect, close up, with a hose on "stream" and nary a drop of water on the inside SO FAR.
Thanks for the reminder because with my luck, it's going to leak at some time in the future so time to check it again. The reason I say that is because I have a condition known as "The Reverse Midas Touch." Everything I touch turns to
is now being recycled for goldAny idea how much longer the covers extend the life of the plastic?One caveat: I have been told by other long term boat owners (which is quite a bit more credible than "by the internet...") that covers block the UV, but another enemy is heat. UV is by far that major concern, but the plastic material also ages faster in intense summer heat.
One friend put a layer of insulation under his hatch covers, and as the years went by the hatch lens did look a little better than ours did. I still use covers, figuring that the material is, ultimately, sacrificial. I have had to replace various covers on the boat at about a 15 year rotation. "Sunbrella" certainly does resist the "sun" but not indefinitely.
With the newer ceramic coatings available, I might be inclined to ceramic coat the poly "glass" windows after doing a thorough cleaning and surface preparation. Doesn't last forever and has to be recoated periodically but might do the trick.
Ceramic coatings act like sunscreen for your car, utilizing advanced polymers to absorb and reflect harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. By blocking these rays, the coating slows down oxidation, prevents fading, and stops your paint or clear coat from cracking and peeling over time.
How Ceramic Coatings Protect Against UV
Paint Protection Film (PPF), commonly known as a "clear bra," is a thick, transparent thermoplastic urethane layer applied to a vehicle's exterior. Acting as a sacrificial shield, it protects the factory paint from rock chips, scratches, UV damage, and chemical stains, while maintaining a glossy, invisible appearance.
Key Features of PPF
Cost and Installation
Prices vary heavily depending on the vehicle, coverage area, and the specific shop.
Maintenance Dos and Don'ts
To make sure your investment lasts, proper care is essential:
Ceramic coatings act like sunscreen for your car, utilizing advanced polymers to absorb and reflect harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. By blocking these rays, the coating slows down oxidation, prevents fading, and stops your paint or clear coat from cracking and peeling over time.
How Ceramic Coatings Protect Against UV
- Oxidation Prevention: UV rays are the primary culprit behind faded and chalky paint. The SiO₂ (silicon dioxide) and polymers in coatings provide a sacrificial barrier so the sun hits the coating rather than the clear coat.
- Color Preservation: Coatings maintain the vehicle's original depth, gloss, and color vibrancy by preventing sun-bleaching.
- Plastic & Headlight Protection: UV rays are notorious for turning clear headlights yellow and degrading plastic trim. Ceramic formulas specialized for trim or polycarbonate surfaces prevent this yellowing and keep them looking new.
Paint Protection Film (PPF), commonly known as a "clear bra," is a thick, transparent thermoplastic urethane layer applied to a vehicle's exterior. Acting as a sacrificial shield, it protects the factory paint from rock chips, scratches, UV damage, and chemical stains, while maintaining a glossy, invisible appearance.
Key Features of PPF
- Self-Healing: Premium films feature a clear top coat that uses heat (from the sun or warm water) to make light swirl marks and scratches magically disappear.
- Impact Absorption: Unlike thin liquid ceramic coatings, PPF physically absorbs the impact of flying road debris to prevent paint chipping.
- Longevity: Quality films typically last between 7 to 10 years and come with warranties against yellowing, peeling, or cracking. [1, 2]
Cost and Installation
Prices vary heavily depending on the vehicle, coverage area, and the specific shop.
- Partial Coverage (High-Impact Zones): Generally ranges from $300 to $800, which often covers the front bumper and side mirrors.
- Full Front/Whole Car Coverage: Expect to pay anywhere from $1,500 to $5,000+ for full-vehicle wraps. Pre-cut kits are also available for DIY installations.
Maintenance Dos and Don'ts
To make sure your investment lasts, proper care is essential:
- DO wait 7 days: Avoid washing or pressure-washing the vehicle for at least a week after installation to let the adhesive fully set.
- DO wipe off bird droppings: Clean off bird droppings and bug splatter immediately to prevent the acids from etching the film.
- DON'T use harsh pressure washers: Keep pressure washer nozzles at least 1-2 feet away from the edges to avoid peeling.
- DON'T use automated car washes: Stick to hand washing, as the aggressive brushes and harsh chemicals in automatic washes can lift the film's edges.
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I noticed a similar crack appear in one of my bedded port lights. Is this the beginning of crazing?The polishing doesn't penetrate the acrylic. The surface microscopic cracks probabaly fill with wax during the polishing process and look good for a short time. They look good from afar but far from good.
Once you have replaced the lenses, he only way to "slow" the hazing process is to cover the lenses when they are not in use. I did this with three Lewmar lenses which I replaced a few years back.
View attachment 238201
This was early in the covering craze and eventually I covered all acrylic port and hatch lenses.
Below is an example of hazing taken to the extreme (UV damage) in a fixed portlight which looks more like the victim of a driveby shooting. At least it hasn't progressed any since covering it with the Sunbrella covers.
View attachment 238203
If only I had known this when I bought the boat knew in '98, I would have covered all of the the windows and wouldn't have had any UV damage problems to date.
Live and learn
Attachments
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,522
I know that's the popular opinion here but not only do I have a couple of large cracks as shown in post #3, I also have many very small cracks which appear to completely penetrate the thickness of the acrylic.
If you can't accept this as the start of UV crazing, then I've had tiny little gangsters with tiny little guns making drive by shootings of my boat every night.
Just great, something else to worry about on my boat
Did I mention that looking at he portlight from the exterior, the surface directly over the suspicious crack ? ? ? is without a blemish. I would suspect that an impact would leave some kind of mark.
@skunther , can you please check the exterior of your portlight to see if there is any exterior mark on the acrylic and let us know. Thanks.
These are the best two pictures I was able to get. They show the surface pretty well. I don’t see any obvious impact markings on the surface.
