Plastic Hunter Crack Repair

[Rictifyit]

Jamestown Distributors

www.jamestowndistributors.com

Anyone ever used this? Total Tread non skid paint from Total Boat. If I paint this Frankenboat, I'll use the rustoleum primer first, and then some sort of non-skid paint on the deck. Or, perhaps you have a suggestion? Topside paint would start with the primer also. Then something nice and glossy.

I know it will make most of you cringe to hear that I'm thinking about waiting on paint altogether. This thing is really ugly right now! I'll finish up the sanding of the MA today, and start cleaning the rest of the boat up with SoftScrub. At that Point, I'd almost like to know if all the repairs are solid before spending $ and energy on paint. As I asked earlier, does anyone see any issue with this ? Other than cosmetic, that is. Plastic is Plastic, and really doesn't need paint. I can make it pretty next year.
Last question for now: For Hardware re-attachment to the deck, I'm thinking of bedding each piece in Fast Cure 5200, on top of the MA/Luran fist. I'll paint around it later. To me, it makes sense to stick the hardware on top of the boat, not paint. Any suggestions for bedding, other than 5200? I thought about bedding the hardware in MA directly, but 5200 will absorb more vibration/shock. Going out to sand off the last coat now. Hurrah! No more cracks! For now anyway. Ric

 

[BobbyFunn]

There are massive amounts of knowledge on bedding hardware. 5200 is the wrong product for the job. Calls for sealant vs adhesive. Most marine applications dont use lag screws. Did your hardware have silicone pads underneath?

None of my factory hardware had any sealant on them other than the the shroud attachment points and the bow eye. The rest was luran, silicone pad, lag screw.

If you let the repairs sit out before painting in the sun and cold and rain youll feel better about the repairs and can see weakness easier. You cant clean with "easy off" oven cleaner once you paint.

 

[Rictifyit]

Yes! Silicone pad under the mast hardware. Ok, Thanks! So 5200 is wrong. So what is right? Not sure I want to reuse that old silicone pad??? Can one purchase such a thing? What do you use? Sorry to be such a pest, but I've learned over and over to ask questions. You guys have saved me a lot of mistakes.
I like your idea about waiting, and exposing it all to the weather. Makes sense to me. I've got a can of Easy Off in the basement I was going to try, instead of ordering/going to the store. It's not "no fume" though. I'd be doing it outside.. Thanks again.
BTW, I was scoping out the pictures you posted of your boat deck, before you applied the Hydroturf. Looks great !

 

[Rictifyit]

Butyl Tape ? Found info on this Forum. Still interested in what you use.

 

[Hunter216]

I have a theory about why Hunter used a silicone pad under the hardware that is screwed onto the Luran surface.

The pad accomplished two things.

1) The silicone pad is a little bit sticky so the assembler could place the component in place, grab some screws and get the job done faster than if the component was sliding all over.
2) The pad would act as a seal for the screw holes so they didn’t have to waste time with sealant and it required no cleanup.

If the original design was strong enough without adhesive (5200), just screws holding into the imbedded wood then you probably don’t need to stick them on now.

 

[Rictifyit]

@Hunter216 Thanks! Makes sense from a production standpoint.
Originally, it was strong enough, but cracks ensued, and I can't be sure that there won't be new ones. In other words, I want any hardware sealed nicely, in addition to being held fast with the screws (and new wood I put in). @BobbyFunn says no 5200 because it's an adhesive, not a sealant. More thought agrees with this, so I'm planning on using Butyl Tape, which seems to be a reasonable bedding. Learning as I go... Thanks for your response!

 

[Hunter216]

@Hunter216 Thanks! Makes sense from a production standpoint.
Originally, it was strong enough, but cracks ensued, and I can't be sure that there won't be new ones. In other words, I want any hardware sealed nicely, in addition to being held fast with the screws (and new wood I put in). @BobbyFunn says no 5200 because it's an adhesive, not a sealant. More thought agrees with this, so I'm planning on using Butyl Tape, which seems to be a reasonable bedding. Learning as I go... Thanks for your response!

I don’t really know why the Luran material cracks as it’s pretty tough stuff by itself but I do know that the strength of a “sandwich” layup is highly dependent on the individual layers being bonded together and acting like a single layer.

If the Luran layer becomes “independent” of the foam or in some places wood underneath it then it will likely “flex” differently than it would if it was attached. Maybe it’s strong and stays the same but the FRP and Foam layers flex differently and cause the cracks. Who knows??? Bottom line is your boat has cracks and you have fixed them.

It’s my understanding that 5200 is a great adhesive and so is almost impossible to get off once applied, so not a good product to use in places where you might need to replace a damaged component.

Sealing any holes through the outer surface is good practice as water inside the sandwich is bad for all kinds of reasons. Using butyl or sealant products like 4200 are good as they seal but are relatively easy to remove if need be. However they have a useable life span as they “dry out” and need to be replaced occasionally

I would suggest you get a new grippy pair of water shoes and go sail the crap out of the boat and see what happens. If no new cracks form then paint!! At least during the painting process you will be smiling remembering the time sailing

 

[Rictifyit]

Haha!! Great advice! I have the grippy shoes, so it's time to get going.
I'll look into the 4200/butyl combination. Thanks! I'm not familiar with 4200 yet, but think it won't be long. Back to sanding.

 

[Shorefun]

I was using the Krylon for plastic and it would not stick to the MA areas.

Rustoleum uses the Acetone because it is not considered a VOC because it is heavier then air. All the paints switched over to using more Acetone which changed how paints were used a lot.

MA glue uses other solvents to open the surface of the Luran so it can adhere with strength.

 

[Rictifyit]

AHA! Thanks for letting me know! Hmmm, Guess I'm not going to use Krylon. I have lots of MA areas. Think I'll use the Rustoleum, if I paint it at all.
I just finished dry sanding all the repairs. They came out fine, but I am looking forward to wet sanding, and compound to bring back the glow to the Luran around the repairs. Thanks again!! it's all very interesting to me!

 

[BobbyFunn]

I was using the Krylon for plastic and it would not stick to the MA areas.

Rustoleum uses the Acetone because it is not considered a VOC because it is heavier then air. All the paints switched over to using more Acetone which changed how paints were used a lot.

MA glue uses other solvents to open the surface of the Luran so it can adhere with strength.

I was googling what to paint over MMA and fun fact..new paints are using MMA as the secret sauce for getting paint to stick better. Didnt find anything describing painting over the cured adhesive.

 

[BobbyFunn]

Was at the club today and got out sailing. I forget to take some pictures but so far so good with the deck and bench repairs. Im still waiting for cracks at the transition between the epoxy/glass and the luran. Nothing.

 

[BobbyFunn]

Heres a two for 1 picture. Sweet looking rustoleum paint job that hasnt been cleaned in months and my centerboard roller

 

[Rictifyit]

Wow, Paint is complicated! MA is the King of adhesives! Well, I don't know. I hope so, cuz it was a lot of work bringing Frankenboat back to life. I think I'll leave it naked for a while.
Cool that you got out sailing today! I bet that felt good! I probably should have gone in the wooden boat, but I spent the day sanding, and Soft Scrubbing the plastic boat.
You got lucky in the crack department! Must have been a lot that they had the Luran just right. Good for you! Glad your deck and bench held up. Very satisfying!!

 

[Rictifyit]

Oh, there's the picture! Love the roller! ( and the paint job ) I need to get one of those. Just tie it on!! Perfect! I have a cedar shim there now... Lol

 

[Rictifyit]

I'm getting ready to mount the hardware. As you can see, the little block that the centerboard bungee goes through has been screwed on a couple times in close proximity. I suspect that the wood ( assuming there is wood) is not in great shape where it was screwed in. And, I can't remember which holes it came out of. I thought I might move it forward a few inches, to the black sharpie marks. I'm assuming that there is better wood there. I'm assuming wood runs all the way up this raised portion that houses the centerboard, etc.
Any thoughts on this?

 

[BobbyFunn]

There is nothing there. The really light hardware is simply screwed to the luran.

The mainsheet swival goes through both luran layers and ends in an exposed aluminum backer plate in the centerboard trunk.

On my version the centerboard strap is really close to the swival. It can go anywhere, just modify the length of the bungee.

You dont really need it. If its weighted, it will snap in your eyes as its sun rotted core gives way. I had one snap while hitting ground and while i was trying to lift it.

Just past the swival it is only luran for the foot rest. Thats why your floor is bouncy there, no support in the center.

 

[Rictifyit]

@BobbyFunn Hey, Thanks for the information! Good to know that the mainsheet swivel is anchored to a backer plate! And also good to know that there is nothing there on that Bungee cord block. I think I'll wait on it altogether, and see how the centerboard hangs down into the water while under sail. If I do reinstall that little block, I think I'll drill out a spot, and fill it in with Marine tex so there is something substantial to screw to. I dislike the idea of it being screwed only to plastic. It looks to me like it was moved once already, probably because it got loose in the Luran. Not keen on losing an eyeball from a rotten bungee. The one on the boat when I got it was knotted up to make it shorter, so it's in the trash now. So, do you wear an eyepatch now? Aaaarrrgghh Yikes!
As usual, thanks for the insight! Honestly, I hope I can do without the bungee. I really like that block you put at the mast step so the centerboard rope pulls evenly, and stronger to lift it.

 

[BobbyFunn]

Aaaarrrgghh!

 

[Rictifyit]

Today I finished the mast hardware. To a lot of you, this is not new stuff. For me, it's uncharted territory! Undoubtedly, I made a mistake or two, but I'm happy with the end result, and will be ecstatic if there are no new cracks on this portion of the boat, come Fall.
Thanks to this Forum, I'm nearly ready to get this boat wet! I appreciate all your help. I would have made some big mistakes if it wasn't for your guidance. So glad I found this Forum!! Thank you ! I'm learning much from other threads also!
I still have some work to do, but I'm not far away from launch day! Good Sailing!