The clearcoat finish on the interior woodwork of my 2005 323 is peeling and chipping away throughout the boat. This started happening soon after I purchased the boat new in December 2005, but only in small, isolated areas, so I didn't give it much thought. However, the last few years the problem has become much worse- I just got a $20,000 estimate for refinishing! Has any other owner experienced this problem, and if so, what did you do about it?
Peeling clearcoat finish interior woodwork
- Thread starter French Toast
- Start date
What type of wood is being used? Is it, for example, oak veneer on a base plywood or an actual oak veneer? I have done a factory refinish to a used 30 ft sailboat (different boat altogether but same year). On a rich in wood boat, it was approximately one week of work to finish the job. But, if you are up to the task, this will cost you in the neighbourhood of $400-$700 in good varnish and supplies. You will need good sander and small shop vac - these are about $70 at Rona and very handful. You will sometimes work 8hrs day, and sometimes 2hrs at the final stages of the project 
Final effect, priceless
Final effect, priceless 
I would contact Beneteau TODAY. I friend of mine has the same boat and I think the same year and the same thing happened about 2 years ago. Beneteau redid the interior at no cost. This should not happen after such a short time. I could call them and get them to take a look at it.
One of my dock neighbours has a 323 and they they just had the entire interior refinsihed at Beneteau's expense due to varnish peeling. I'd be contacting them right away!
Gord
Gord
This is a common problem. The best way to answer this is, would you re-do your dinning room table yourself? if so, tackle the job, if not.. seek a professional.
For things like the head door, a common way to get around this is to strip the first layer off completely, then put a vinyl over it.
For things like the head door, a common way to get around this is to strip the first layer off completely, then put a vinyl over it.
Hello, I have a 2004 B323 and I experienced the same issue of varnish peeling. My local Beneteau dealer came to look at the boat and said it was a fault in the varnish process at the factory. Beneteau actually sent a team over from France and refinished my whole interior ( and that of a few other Beneteau's with the same issue). They did this without charge. Did you approach your Beneteau dealer regarding the varnish? Beneteau is an excellent company and recognizes the issue of the varnish is their fault. By the way, they won't sell you the finishing materials . I hope that helps you.
My dealer went out of business soon after we purchased the boat. I just contacted Beneteau and they offered to fix it- for $11,000. Not sure what I am going to do. I really don't have $11,000 sitting around. Very frustrated. I have had a ton of problems with this boat.
Locker finish is peeling
Suddenly, over the winter and under shrink-wrap, the peeling showed up on ONE port/aft locker door (the whole door). What was on there? I plan to contact Beneteau to ask for an explanation. I have a nice 311 '05.
Suddenly, over the winter and under shrink-wrap, the peeling showed up on ONE port/aft locker door (the whole door). What was on there? I plan to contact Beneteau to ask for an explanation. I have a nice 311 '05.
Who did you contact at Beneteau? We are having the same issue on our 2003 B331. It began last summer, and now we have blisters the size of dinner plates on all of the woodwork.
When we purchased our 2nd hand 44.7 from 2004 it had the same problem but the former owner had negotiated with Beneteau for them to fix this under warranty. I understand it cost the owner about $10K AUS as a contribution for the work. It affected boats built about 2004~2006.
They flew a team of about 5 out to Sydney and did the work on about 6 boats at once - most of the removable furniture came out and it was a big job.
To test if you have a problem, find an out of the way place, score the varnish with a pen knife and place sticky tape over the cut - if it peels away the varnish then you have a problem that they should fix.
They flew a team of about 5 out to Sydney and did the work on about 6 boats at once - most of the removable furniture came out and it was a big job.
To test if you have a problem, find an out of the way place, score the varnish with a pen knife and place sticky tape over the cut - if it peels away the varnish then you have a problem that they should fix.
The repairs were organised by the beneteau agent (I am in Australia) so you will need to see your local bene rep
Same Varnish problem
I have a 2004 beneteau 323, purchased new in summer 2005. The boat is on an inland freash water lake and gets meticulous care. I'm having the same peeling varnish problem in several spots. I also thought there were only a few interior problems and minor at first, but it continues to get worse. Who do I contact as the dealer I purchased from no longer represents Beneteau.
Thanks.
Bill Beglin
I have a 2004 beneteau 323, purchased new in summer 2005. The boat is on an inland freash water lake and gets meticulous care. I'm having the same peeling varnish problem in several spots. I also thought there were only a few interior problems and minor at first, but it continues to get worse. Who do I contact as the dealer I purchased from no longer represents Beneteau.
Thanks.
Bill Beglin
Beneteau failing to support bad manufacturing
I recently contacted Beneteau on the same interior varnish issue. Mine is exactly like the ones mentioned in this blog like gord331victoria and coldsailor.
I was just told I would have to contribute $7,000 for the work. sounds like that's the entire fee, not just a contribution. I guess at some point Beneteau got tired of standing behind their work even an admitted manufacturing defect.
I recently contacted Beneteau on the same interior varnish issue. Mine is exactly like the ones mentioned in this blog like gord331victoria and coldsailor.
I was just told I would have to contribute $7,000 for the work. sounds like that's the entire fee, not just a contribution. I guess at some point Beneteau got tired of standing behind their work even an admitted manufacturing defect.
Same thing on my '05 393. Frankly I wasn't surprised; the first time I cut a hole in something to add some new gadget, I put some painters tape over the panel to protect it and when I pulled the tape off, the varnish came with it. Later it started doing it on its own in little bits here and there, and then over the winter it started coming off in sheets. Moisture gets under it and seperates the varnish from the wood.
Have you seen the Beneteau factory video? I don't know where I saw it but it shows a bit of the joiner shop and you can see these panels of that famous South American Mystery Wood going about 100 mph through a machine that sprays that Mystery Varnish on them. Honestly I don't know how anyone would expect that stuff to stick.
Anyways, like everyone else with this problem it's very disappointing to me, but on the other hand it's really not difficult or expensive (in materials) to revarnish whatever panels or doors have peeled off.
The peeling varnish will actually come off very easily and leave a nearly flawless bare wood finish behind. Remember the painter's tape? I laid out a grid of tape over the aft galley bulkhead and started pulling. I made a game of seeing how large a piece I could get in one pull without tearing it off.
That was last year. I left it bare and started stripping the other larger panels a few weeks ago. Taping and pulling is kind of tedious on a large panel like the forward main bulkhead. Instead I got a razor blader scraper tool (the kind that is basically a handle for a standard straight razor blade) and used it to start the edge of a peel. Then grabbed the edge with my fingers and teased it along with the scraper, not actually scraping on the wood but using the blade to help lift the peel as I pulled it up.
I did make a few nicks as I refined the technique but a dab of stain (Zar 120 natural teak, I think, is a good match for mine) will cover those.
I just took the two cabin doors home and stripped one of them with the razor technique in about 20 minutes. The largest single peel I got was probably over 18". I'm wading through piles of stripped off varnish in the basement!
Since the doors were off and home I removed the hardware and stripped them bare with a power sander and some 220 grit paper. This got them fairly slick and I probably could have stained them then but I ran over them again with 400 grit to smooth them out some more. I'm not sure whether this will have been a good idea or not. I have no idea what kind of wood that stuff is and the super fine finish may have closed up the grain too much.
Well in any case I just put the first coat of teak natural stain on one of them. The Zar stuff is kind of thick, which really helps with the drips, but you have to work fast. After wiping it down to even everything out, it looks great. I'm not sure I can tell that I just refinished the thing.
The bottom line folks is that it's probably within the means and skill of most of you to deal with this yourself and have a much higher quality result in the end plus the satisfaction of doing it. What's Bene gonna do? spray more of that mystery crap all over everything? Yeah, that'll really help.
So after two coats of stain I'll varnish the doors and see how they look. I revarnished the little cabinet door under the galley sink last year after peeling the varnish but without restaining it. It turned out great. It's lighter in color now because that stuff Bene uses has a tint in it. Personally I think the wood (or whatever it is) is a lot prettier with a true clear varnish on it.
Have you seen the Beneteau factory video? I don't know where I saw it but it shows a bit of the joiner shop and you can see these panels of that famous South American Mystery Wood going about 100 mph through a machine that sprays that Mystery Varnish on them. Honestly I don't know how anyone would expect that stuff to stick.
Anyways, like everyone else with this problem it's very disappointing to me, but on the other hand it's really not difficult or expensive (in materials) to revarnish whatever panels or doors have peeled off.
The peeling varnish will actually come off very easily and leave a nearly flawless bare wood finish behind. Remember the painter's tape? I laid out a grid of tape over the aft galley bulkhead and started pulling. I made a game of seeing how large a piece I could get in one pull without tearing it off.
That was last year. I left it bare and started stripping the other larger panels a few weeks ago. Taping and pulling is kind of tedious on a large panel like the forward main bulkhead. Instead I got a razor blader scraper tool (the kind that is basically a handle for a standard straight razor blade) and used it to start the edge of a peel. Then grabbed the edge with my fingers and teased it along with the scraper, not actually scraping on the wood but using the blade to help lift the peel as I pulled it up.
I did make a few nicks as I refined the technique but a dab of stain (Zar 120 natural teak, I think, is a good match for mine) will cover those.
I just took the two cabin doors home and stripped one of them with the razor technique in about 20 minutes. The largest single peel I got was probably over 18". I'm wading through piles of stripped off varnish in the basement!
Since the doors were off and home I removed the hardware and stripped them bare with a power sander and some 220 grit paper. This got them fairly slick and I probably could have stained them then but I ran over them again with 400 grit to smooth them out some more. I'm not sure whether this will have been a good idea or not. I have no idea what kind of wood that stuff is and the super fine finish may have closed up the grain too much.
Well in any case I just put the first coat of teak natural stain on one of them. The Zar stuff is kind of thick, which really helps with the drips, but you have to work fast. After wiping it down to even everything out, it looks great. I'm not sure I can tell that I just refinished the thing.
The bottom line folks is that it's probably within the means and skill of most of you to deal with this yourself and have a much higher quality result in the end plus the satisfaction of doing it. What's Bene gonna do? spray more of that mystery crap all over everything? Yeah, that'll really help.
So after two coats of stain I'll varnish the doors and see how they look. I revarnished the little cabinet door under the galley sink last year after peeling the varnish but without restaining it. It turned out great. It's lighter in color now because that stuff Bene uses has a tint in it. Personally I think the wood (or whatever it is) is a lot prettier with a true clear varnish on it.
The factory says the wood is African Douka (mahogany family), and the stain they use is mixed with the two-part varnish. They report that Mohawk "light golden oak" , a yellow, provides the closest match to OEM finish. They also state that 6-8 coats of laquer provide the same color. good luck.
cbarber, how did your refinish job turn out, and is it holding up so far? My 2005 323 is peeling badly like the others in this discussion and I got a $12,000 price from the Beneteau rep. Looking for an affordable alternative, and it looks like you've got the right idea. I'd appreciate an update.
I don't like what I'm reading. My 2004 323 is exhibiting the same, though presently minor, issue.
I have a spot the size of a coffee cup ring on one table leaf, the top of the small cover at the head of the nav table and a nick on the head door. So far that's all.
It certainly appears to be an adhesion problem.If its something on the wood surface itself that has caused it, what is going to prevent a reoccurrence with the new finish?
From this small sampling of owners it appears that the problem is not isolated to US built boats vs French, nor does it appear to be salt water boats vs fresh water boats.
I have a spot the size of a coffee cup ring on one table leaf, the top of the small cover at the head of the nav table and a nick on the head door. So far that's all.
It certainly appears to be an adhesion problem.If its something on the wood surface itself that has caused it, what is going to prevent a reoccurrence with the new finish?
From this small sampling of owners it appears that the problem is not isolated to US built boats vs French, nor does it appear to be salt water boats vs fresh water boats.
So far I haven't had a problem on my '06 343; however, I know of about a 331 that had problems when it was a couple years old. Beneteau sent a crew to refinish the interior under warranty.
You can review Beneteau's recommended repair procedures and suppliers at the following site: http://www.intersessions.com/411/WoodRepairTechniques2003.htm
Evidently Beneteau used a 2 part caltalyzed polyurethane finish; they do not recommend it for repairs. Instead, they advise using a pre catalyzed satin laquer by Mohawk Industries. The materials & sources are contained in the repair procedure advisory.
You can review Beneteau's recommended repair procedures and suppliers at the following site: http://www.intersessions.com/411/WoodRepairTechniques2003.htm
Evidently Beneteau used a 2 part caltalyzed polyurethane finish; they do not recommend it for repairs. Instead, they advise using a pre catalyzed satin laquer by Mohawk Industries. The materials & sources are contained in the repair procedure advisory.
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