Pearson 39-2 survey

Aug 17, 2015
3
Pearson 39-2 Milwaukee
Im in my third season on an '86 P-39. Similar damp but not soft spots in the deck near stanchion mounts, which surveyor and even a glass shop have said pose no structural threat. I have resealed (bored out, filled, redressed) the stanchions which turned out to be quite an ordeal and remounted the windlass. Grace has lived her life in fresh water so I feel pretty confident about rigging and rudder but would be interested in hearing how those issued worked out. I would be very interested in whatever documentation you have that you could pass along conveniently... did you put it on a link? Thanks!
 
Dec 16, 2015
3
Pearson 39-2 San Diego
Great to read everyone's posts.
I am in a similar position of placing an offer on a P39-2 called Passion in San Diego. If anyone knows the history that would be great to read about.
It looks in good condition, but needs a little TLC in places, plus some new sails in due course. However I was extremely impressed at how dry the boat was inside - no signs of water ingress anywhere.
Our other boat option is a very well sorted Pedrick 38 (Cheoy Lee).
Any suggestions on what the survey needs to focus on - scheduled for Friday this week?
Thanks, Jeremy
 
Oct 4, 2013
34
Pearson 39-2 Baltimore
The Pearson 39-2 is a solid design and I have had no problems with soft spots since I purchased her 2 years ago. The only core rot was in an area on the deck where the previous owner had an extra deck cleat ("professionally") mounted and they did not place a backing plate, core it or seal it properly. I have since fixed that but no other problems. I have not replaced the standing rigging yet but have had it inspected and there is no sign of wear. I have purposely been in 2 gales on the Chesapeake and (unplanned/unceremoniously) been in a freak thunderstorm with storm force winds/hail and another set of powerful thunderstorms in the nearshore Atlantic while completing circumnavigation of the Delmarva. She behaves well in the nearshore Atlantic, is well balanced when properly reefed and will hold up to a beating and a knockdown during a squall. No problems with rudder/CB. That being said, no author lists this boat as a blue-water passage-maker. I have lots of documentation but I'm unable to post it as it is all in the original Pearson binder and it would be quite a long process to scan. I'm happy to let anyone look at the blueprints/manuals over lunch and take pictures, but that is the best I can do.
 
Dec 16, 2015
3
Pearson 39-2 San Diego
Thanks MP.
I will let you know if there is anything specific I need.
There is evidence of the 36-2 being used for crossings - one just arrived in Sydney a few months ago. Many people I have spoken to would consider them blue water capable.
I can only imagine the 39 is better equipped for this than the 36.
The inner forestay with storm sail seems like a serious heavy weather capability, plus this one has running backstays from the top spreader position to provide resistance to pumping in big seas I am guessing.

Does anyone know how many P39-2's were built?
 
Oct 4, 2013
34
Pearson 39-2 Baltimore
Jeremy-I agree that the inner forestay will only increase this (already sturdy) boat's heavy weather capability. It is nice to have that option when short-handed because you can always keep a storm sail packaged on the foredeck in a bag ready to hoist if the wind pipes up. Most riggers will automatically require running backstays be added to balance the rig although some owners have not added them arguing that the double shrouds (like on the 39-2) will offer enough stability. Sounds like the boat you are looking at is set up correctly. Good luck.
 
Jun 19, 2016
6
Pearson P28-2 Mandeville, Louisiana
Hi Capt. Gary,
I am just about to sell my fifth Pearson and I am interested in learning more about the P39-2. Would you mind sending me a copy of the owner's manual? My email address is bob.christ@seatrepid.com

Thanks!

Bob
 
Feb 3, 2016
3
Pearson 39-2 Boston
I'd like to pick the brains of other P39-2 owners, as I am just embarking on a refit of my all-too-original 1987 boat. It's the two-head version, Westerbeke W46 diesel. Some moisture in the decks but nothing structural, though the toe rails are pretty far gone. I am looking to modify the anchoring system to incorporate a windlass with a deck pipe through to the bow space under the anchor tray, and perhaps add an inner forestay. If anyone has done either of these things I would be happy to hear from you. Also, if anyone can tell me the length of the shifter cable, I'd be stoked. Mine broke at the binnacle end and I'd like to join the new one to it to pull it through.
 
Oct 4, 2013
34
Pearson 39-2 Baltimore
Have fun with the Toe rail-lotsof work. Mine is still OK but I just received a sample from Plasteak company (
PlasTeak/PlasDeck Inc.
1-800-320-1841)
. It looks very nice and is a good alternative to real teak. My 39-2 was equipped out of the factory with a windlass but the orig owner paid a good sum to have it removed and glassed over. WHY I asked would they remove such a functional tool? Response-It kept jamming. My guess is the shallow anchor locker in this boat. Best option is to redo the anchor locker-make it deeper. I have read about this being done on the 39-2. Chain pipe is another option but will introduce more grime and water into the bilge not to mention the ingress of water from the deck incase of capsize. I have not added one YET because I'm young and like the workout :)
Look above in this thread regarding the inner forestay. Its nice but do you really want to go through the expense of running backstays and reinforcing the deck where it attaches? You are also supposed to add separate adjustable leads for the staysail. Lots of $$ I just had my original standing rigging redone and asked the rigger about adding the inner stay. He had assembled the rigging on many of the Pearsons including the 39-2 in the 80s on the Chesapeake-so he knowsthe model. His response-if this model was designedfor an inner forestay they would have included it as an option. I think he has a good point. I have sailed with my kids in 4 gales on the Chesapeake and coastal Atlantic with either a stormsail (StormBag) or a 9oz working jib furled and the boat is nicely balanced. So consider how badly youwant it. Have you thought about adding a synthetic line Solent stay (does not require runningbackstays)?
 
Dec 2, 2012
46
Pearson 39-2 New London
I'd like to pick the brains of other P39-2 owners, as I am just embarking on a refit of my all-too-original 1987 boat. It's the two-head version, Westerbeke W46 diesel. Some moisture in the decks but nothing structural, though the toe rails are pretty far gone. I am looking to modify the anchoring system to incorporate a windlass with a deck pipe through to the bow space under the anchor tray, and perhaps add an inner forestay. If anyone has done either of these things I would be happy to hear from you. Also, if anyone can tell me the length of the shifter cable, I'd be stoked. Mine broke at the binnacle end and I'd like to join the new one to it to pull it through.
I finally broke down this summer and addressed my split and weathered toe rails. I used 2 thick coats of Interlux Interstain to fill the cracks in the grain, the finished off with three coats of satin varnish. It is a little darker than natural teak, but it looks fine and the satin finish hides the irregularities.
 
Feb 3, 2016
3
Pearson 39-2 Boston
Well, thanks muchly for the feedback and input. It's great to share info and ideas with other owners. I had the boat re-rigged, with provision for a Solent stay -- close enough to the masthead that no runners are required. I plan to add a demountable Dyneema stay, taken down to the foredeck by the stemhead, with a hank-on staysail. But that's a ways off. The anchoring system is of more immediate concern. I am contemplating cutting out the bottom of the chain locker and glassing over its lid so I can install a vertical windlass with a decent chain drop and install a drain into the greywater sump for the forward head. It would mean a fair bit of work and it's not a perfect solution, but the current situation is not acceptable in the long term; planning to head south to the Bahamas and Central America in a few years. I want a remote control windlass as I'm usually singlehanded. I'm also curious to know if anyone has installed extra batteries and if so, where?

Capt. Gary, if you have the original drawings on Dropbox, I would love to see them!

Peter
 
Jun 29, 2011
6
Pearson 26 Brunswick
Hello All
I am buying a 1988 Pearson 39-2 that has delamination about 6-8 inches in from the toe rail on both port and starboard sides. I have been told this is where Pearson used plywood Vs. balsa on the deck - if anyone has information regarding this issue or the repair - I would really appreciate the help.
Thank you
 
Jun 29, 2011
6
Pearson 26 Brunswick
Hello
It appears that the moisture ingress and deck delamination along and about 6-8 inches up from the toe rail may be a result of the interface of the toe rail to the deck joint - I have been told that Pearson used plywood beneath this section of the deck. I have two questions: 1) Can anyone confirm the construction of this area of the deck, and 2) has anyone put more drain holes in the toe rail to attempt to improve the moisture draining from the deck - and if so what did you do and how did it work out?
Thank you
 

Foxie

.
Jul 11, 2018
9
Pearson 39-2 Beverly, MA
Mine also has moisture in an arc in an area about 15’ long and up to 8 or 10 inches from the toe rails on both sides. My boat also has new toe rails that were installed about 3 years ago by a yard in Md for the previous owner. I did some inspection and rebedding this spring trying to find the source. First I removed all the bolts from the Genoa track and found it all to be dry, I decided against pulling up the track and over drilling each hole and just put the bolts back using butyl tape. I had assumed since the survey that the water had to be coming from the tracks but apparently not. I’ll likely take on the overdriloing job this winter to be sure they don’t leak in the future. I removed both the breast cleats next and found some definite wet core around both. I overdrilled these and filled with West system, they won’t leak anymore. I decided against removing the stanchions this year but will do that this fall.

I don’t think the toe rails would be the source of the water, I’m 99%sure it’s solid glass under the toe rails as this is the hull deck joint. Also with the reverse flange design it wouldn’t make for a sturdy long lasting hull deck joint to have core there. I think the stanchions and the breast cleats are the source at least on my boat.
 
May 20, 2015
11
Pearson 39-2 33 Annapolis
Does anybody here know if the owner's guide was posted anywhere? Seems to be hard to find, but I'd like a copy if someone has it digital.
 

Popps

.
Aug 4, 2019
13
Pearson 39-2 Detroit
Does anybody here know if the owner's guide was posted anywhere? Seems to be hard to find, but I'd like a copy if someone has it digital.
I can send you a digital copy that someone was able to send to me. Just PM me you email address.
 

Popps

.
Aug 4, 2019
13
Pearson 39-2 Detroit
Hello
It appears that the moisture ingress and deck delamination along and about 6-8 inches up from the toe rail may be a result of the interface of the toe rail to the deck joint - I have been told that Pearson used plywood beneath this section of the deck. I have two questions: 1) Can anyone confirm the construction of this area of the deck, and 2) has anyone put more drain holes in the toe rail to attempt to improve the moisture draining from the deck - and if so what did you do and how did it work out?
Thank you
I purchased mine last year with the same delam issues. My delam was a combination of toerail leaks and stanchion leaks. I re-bedded all the stanchions properly as a stop gap until I can remove the toe rails and cut the deck skin off to replace the core, can't wait.
 

Popps

.
Aug 4, 2019
13
Pearson 39-2 Detroit
Best option is to redo the anchor locker-make it deeper. I have read about this being done on the 39-2.
I'm looking at doing something similar. Any idea where you read about this being done? I'm curious on what they did.
 
Feb 3, 2016
3
Pearson 39-2 Boston
Well, I have removed the old toerails (1986, hull #1) and recored underneath them, cutting the top skin off and using divynicell foam and epoxy resin. The balsa core extended to the deck edge and was pretty far gone. Combined with the water traps on deck and the stupid rubber gaskets under the stanchions in lieu of proper bedding compound, that guarantees trouble. I don’t know what Pearson was thinking. I have sourced the replacement teak for the new toerails — cheaper than I thought — and had it machined to size. Should look great once it’s on, this time with scuppers every 6ft the way the toerails should have been installed in the first place.